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LUCY BROWN REYNOLDS. 



Drops of Spray 



From Southern Seas: 



BY 



LUCY BROWN REYNOLDS. 



•rc.U.H-S^ 



WATERVILLE, ME.: 

MAIL PUBLISHING COMPANY, 

1896. 



k=, 



GrSHO 

■7?4S5 



Copyright, 1896, 
T3y Lucy Brown Reynolds. «m^> 









C7 



In Memory of My Mother, 

Who Died at Sea, 

After a Long and Painful Illness, 

I Dedicate This Book. 



DROPS OF SPRAY 
FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 



CHAPTER I. 

MEMORIES OF HOME. 

I was born in the prosperous town of Milbridge, Maine, 
situated on the Narraguagus River, five miles from the 
open sea, and to me the dearest place on earth. My 
father was a sea captain, James Brown by name, who 
always went on deep sea voyages and who, unlike the ma- 
jority of captains, was glad to have his family accom- 
pany him. 

Our family at that time consisted of my mother, my 
lister Annie, two years my senior, and myself. We lived 
in a very pretty house overlooking the blue waters of 
the bay. The large yard in front of the house, enclosed 



O DROPS OF SPRAY 

by a white fence, made a fine playground. In this yard 
were a number of large, tall trees, any one of which I 
could climb, even to its top, with the exception of a big 
poplar which stood exactly in the center of the yard and 
whose smooth trunk defied my utmost efforts. My sis- 
ter never climbed trees nor swung on the gate. She 
was quiet and sedate and always exercised a motherly 
care over me, who was a sad tomboy, I fear, always up 
to some mischief or other. 

A short distance from our home was a creek spanned 
by a wooden bridge, at low tide a fascinating spot in 
which to play. We children were generally forbidden to 
play there but sometimes we would steal off without ask- 
ing permission. At low tide the ledges were left high 
and dry, with little pools of water in the hollows in which 
sported tiny, silvery minnows. We called these our 
children and carried them about from one pool to anoth- 
er. Across the creek lay a large flat rock, the surface 
of which was worn as smooth as glass from the con- 
stant friction of the water which at this point was swift. 
Even at low tide this rock was covered to a depth of 
several inches. 

We used to see who could walk across that rock with- 
out falling in, a feat which was extremely difficult, and 
which I never remember to have accomplished, as the 
rock was covered with a slimy, green moss. I would 
start with the firm determination to cross that rock or 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. V 

die and I would generally get about half way when down 
I would go with a splash and when I scrambled out the 
starch would be taken out of me as well as my clean 
dress, which mother had put on only that morning, with 
strict injunctions to keep away from that creek and not 
soil my clothes. And as I thought of the whipping 
which loomed up before me, my heart sank and my fun 
for that day was over. 

Did any of my readers ever witness a launching ? To 
those who never have I will say that you have missed a 
grand spectacle. Milbridge used to be a great ship- 
building town, sometimes as many as four large vessels 
being launched in one year. The business is still car- 
ried on to some extent there but steamers are largely 
crowding sailing vessels out. There is as much excite- 
ment about a launching as there is when a big circus, 
comes to town and everybody turns out to see the pa- 
rade. On the all-important day crowds begin to gather- 
early in the morning so as to make sure and not miss it. 
The launching usually takes place about ten o'clock in 
the morning. If school is keeping the pupils are given 
a holiday. They all hurry to the shipyard. The ways 
have been well slushed to enable the vessel to glide over 
them easily. How handsome, how stately she is, cov- 
ered with her flags and streamers which flutter gaily in 
the bright sunshine. How we envied the favored few on 
her decks and wished ourselves among them. The lady 



10 DROPS OP SPRAY 

chosen for the honor of christening the vessel stands in 
the bow with a bottle of wine in her hands, gaily deco- 
rated with ribbon streamers of red, white and blue. 

Off in the stream the tugboat waits, impatient for its 
fair charge. Now comes the ringing sound of axes, 
blow on blow. The men are hard at work knocking out 
the wedges. At last, all are out but one. Only that 
small wedge holds the vast structure back. It's a 
dangerous piece of work to knock that remaining wedge 
out. One man seizes his axe, knocks it out, and with 
lightning-like rapidity springs back out of the reach of 
the falling timbers. She starts, gathering headway 
every instant, while ringing cheers from the crowded 
yard rend the air. She strikes the water with a swift 
rush, sending a huge green wave curling from under her 
stern. As she moves she is christened, the bottle 
of wine goes crashing across her bows, and the ruby 
fluid trickles down over her white coat of paint. The 
tug catches and holds her fast, and now she rests quietly 
on the calm water, looking like a stately swan, so beauti- 
ful, so graceful is she. Presently she is towed to the 
wharf, where she will take in ballast for New York or 
Boston. 

No matter how many launchings one has seen, one 
never tires. There seems to be a subtle fascination 
about them somehow. 

How odd the yard looks after it is over. Imagine a 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 11 

big meeting house in process of construction for months, 
and, finally being completed, suddenly removed, and you 
will have a fair idea of how deserted a shipyard looks 
after a launching. 

Then there were the picnics, down among the Islands. 
What enjoyable times they were ! Trafton's Island was 
generally chosen, as it was easy of access and had a 
beautiful grove, which sloped down to the water's edge, 
and a fine stretch of sandy beach. There would be gen- 
erally eight or ten families invited on these excursions. 
Sometimes we would have a chowder, sometimes a clam- 
bake. If a chowder was decided on, then the men 
would take the boat and proceed down the bay, 
where cod, haddock, and a number of other varieties of 
fish abounded, while the women set the tables and made 
everything ready. Nothing ever tasted half so good to 
me as did those delicious chowders, eaten under the 
trees, with the sound of the surf in our ears as it broke 
gently on the beach, and the salt breeze blowing in our 
faces. In the afternoon we children would play games, 
or wander along the shore, gathering shells or tiny col- 
ored rocks. Sometimes we would find a beautiful pink 
starfish, which had been cast up by the waves. But in 
spite of their beauty, we would pass them by, as their 
odor is anything but agreeable. And so, all too quickly, 
the day fades into the dim eternity, and when the moon 
rises, smiling and serene, and begins her journey across 



12 DROPS OF SPRAY 

the heavens, changing the waters of the bay into a 
sheet of silvery radiance, we turn our faces homeward,, 
enlivening the way with song and merry chat. I 
was always sorry when we reached the wharf, and our 
long, pleasant day was gone. 

Another favorite spot for picnics is Baldwin Head, 
which is reached by teams. For those who enjoy surf 
bathing it is an ideal spot, as the surf is very heavy. I 
remember one day in particular, when a party of merry 
people were quietly enjoying their dinner, there sudden- 
ly rolled up a terrific thunder shower. The hailstones, 
as large as robins' eggs, demolished their pies, spoiled 
their dinner, and frightened their horses, so that they 
were obliged to make all speed for home. 

Then in September there would be excursions to the 
great Blueberry Plains of Cherryfield, situated about 
sixteen miles from Milbriclge. We would start very 
early in the morning, and arrive there about time for 
dinner. That over, the fun would commence. Such a 
sight ! For miles and miles stretch the Plains, with 
scarcely a tree in sight, and the ground fairly blue with 
the berries. And such berries ! Large, sweet and juicy - 
Whole families, among the poorer classes, pitch their 
tents here during the season and do a prosperous busi- 
ness picking the berries for the numerous canning fac- 
tories. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 13 



CHAPTER II. 

YELLOW JACK. 

I went to sea from earliest infancy, and always en- 
joyed it. Mother used to say I was more at home on 
the water than I was on the land. 

I will relate a few incidents which happened at this 
period of my life, from notes furnished me by my father. 
We were in Havana, when the yellow fever or Yellow 
Jack, as it is called, was raging with great fury and 
hundreds were dying every day. I was two years old at 
the time. One after another of our crew was stricken 
•down with the dread scourge, until barely enough re- 
mained to work the ship. Our only hope lay in getting 
out to sea, away from this pesthole. So father made all 
haste to conclude his business on shore and get away. 
On the last trip ashore he had to make he was suddenly 
stricken down. He was brought back on board, and 
gave orders to put to sea at once. His orders were car- 
ried out by the remaining two or three men who were 
still unscathed. If a gale had suddenly sprung up, as 



14 DROPS OF SPRAY 

frequently happens in this region, we probably should 
have all gone to the bottom, as there weren't men 
enough to work the vessel properly. At the end of a 
week, every soul on board, myself included, was down 
with the sole exception of mother. Happily, none died 
and as the fever works very rapidly, those who had been 
taken first were now able to crawl weakly around, and 
see to things after a. fashion and, as the weather con- 
tinued fine, we passed safely through the crisis. 

When I was five years old we were again in Cuba T 
where I very nearly lost my life. Our vessel, the brig 
Tariffa, lay at anchor in the stream, discharging her 
cargo by lighters- The harbor fairly swarmed with 
sharks, and one could see them gliding along on every 
side, their dorsal fins cleaving the water like knives. 
Father usually went on shore in the morning, returning 
at six o'clock. He never failed to bring us something 
nice from shore, and we used to watch eagerly for 
his return. The day came when the last lighter load 
was about to start shoreward, and we were all on deck 
watching our own boat, which had just put out from 
the wharf and was rapidly nearing us. I had been eat- 
ing a banana and ran to the opposite side of the deck to 
throw the skin overboard. As I dashed up against the 
ropes which were fastened across the gangway, and were 
old and rotten, they parted, and I shot through them 
and struck the water between the lighter and the vessel. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 15 

Oh, that awful gurgling in my ears, that awful suffoca- 
tion ! Shall I ever forget it ? Young as I was, it will 
remain stamped on my memory while life lasts. None 
had missed me on the ship, as the men were at work in 
the hold, and mother had neither heard my stifled scream, 
nor seen me' fall. The lighter was manned with Span- 
iards, and they, although expert swimmers, do not 
dare to risk their lives in that hotbed of sharks. I came 
to the surface, but out of reach. Would no one save 
me ! Again I sank slowly from view. Suddenly a bright 
idea came to the Spaniards. One of them leaned far 
out over the lighter, another grasped him by the feet, 
and the second time I rose I was caught by my dress, 
carried on board, and laid dripping and unconscious in 
my mother's arms, just as my father stepped on board. 
It was a miracle that I was saved. 

Another important event in my early life occurred in 
Scotland, which I will relate briefly. We were in Green- 
ock, and visited Edinburgh by the fast express called 
the Flying Scotchman, at that time considered the fast- 
est train in the world. We visited the castle of that ill- 
fated Queen, Mary of Scots, the most beautiful queen of 
her day, and went into her bed chamber where everything 
was just as she had quitted it on that awful morning 
when she was carried forth to her execution, centuries 
before. We saw the blood stains on the floor of the 
throne room, where her hapless lover was stabbed to 



16 DROPS OF SPRAY 

death by her order even while clinging to her dress, and, 
begging for mercy, was finally dragged from the apart- 
ment, while his life-blood sprinkled the floor. Before 
we left, father set me in her throne-chair, playfully re- 
marking that I should occupy a throne for once in my 
life at all events. It was evening when we returned and 
we passed many coal mines, some of which were burning, 
and vomiting forth great volumes of lurid flame, which 
looked very weird in the darkness as we rushed past. 

From Greenock we sailed for Falmouth, England, and 
I had an extremely pleasant time, I remember, in that 
place. My sister did not accompany us on this voyage, 
but stayed at home with my Grandmother Wallace. So 
I was very lonesome, and was overjoyed to get acquaint- 
ed with the American consul's little daughter, Jessie 
Newton. We became great friends, and many a happy 
hour did we spend together in childish play, sometimes 
at her beautiful home, and sometimes on our ship. 

I remember one day in particular, when we came very 
near getting lost in the streets of Falmouth. There was a 
fine lawn surrounding her home, not large, but laid out 
very prettily with flower beds and separated from the 
street by an ornamental iron fence. We could play as 
long as we liked on the lawn, but were forbidden to go 
on the street. About six o'clock we heard a great com- 
motion farther down the street and saw men and even 
women running past. In a twinkling Jessie and I were 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 17 

on the street and were carried swiftly along with the 
crowd. At no other place in the world does a street 
fight draw such a crowd as in England, or in France. The 
parties chiefly concerned were two brawny sailors and 
the crowd took sides and urged them on with hoots and 
yells until the tardy policemen came rushing in, using 
their billies right and left, and promptly arrested the two- 
men, who, with shirts torn from their backs and faces 
cut and bleeding, were dragged away. Then we began 
to get frightened, as we did not know which way to turn,., 
when we saw father hurrying towards us, with a white, 
anxious face. We never ran away again, you may de- 
pend. When the time came for us to leave Falmouth, I 
was inconsolable at the thought of parting with my 
charming little friend. 

On our next voyage, some three years later, we made 
a short visit to Stetin, Germany, my sister accompany- 
ing us. We were there during the summer season. It 
is a lovely place, though not large. Much like a country 
village. It is situated very far north, and its winters 
are long and cold and dark ; its summers warm but short. 
During the summer months the sun does not set until 
nine o'clock in the evening, while it rises at three in the 
morning, and it is not really dark at all, but rather more 
like dim twilight. One can see to read fine print on 
deck all night if one wishes. Mother used to hang a 
thick shawl across the windows in order that we misrht 



18 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

sleep. I grew very tired of it after the novelty wore off, 
and wished heartily that I was back in my own country, 
where night brought the silent darkness so refreshing to 
tired nerves. The water of the river here was fresh, 
though close to the sea. On one side lay the town, while 
the other side was divided into farms. As there was 
deep water close in shore, we lay very near to the side 
on which the farms were situated. It was a fine chance 
to play as there was no houses very near, and quite often 
we were allowed this privilege. The men would set us 
on shore and return to the vessel, and when we were tired 
and wished to return, we had only to wave our handker- 
chiefs, when they would come for us. And what a treat 
it was to us, confined within the warm limits of a vessel, 
to be able to run and play on the beautiful green grass, 
.soft as velvet, and spangled with all sorts of wild flow- 
ers, the like of which we had never seen elsewhere. 

One day I met with a mishap, which was nothing un- 
common for me. We were enjoying a game of tag and I 
.slipped and fell into a bed of poisonous nettles and 
both knees were badly stung. The pain was worse than 
hornet stings and how I did scream ! My knees were 
soon badly swollen and had a curious chalky, mottled ap- 
pearance. Annie bathed them in the water but that made 
the pain worse. She then gave the signal to return but 
it seemed an age before we espied the boat coming to 
•our relief. It had been sent on shore for father ; hence 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 19 

the delay. Although we were in Stetin for several 
days after this, I never went on shore to play again. 

From Stetin we cruised up the Baltic, touching at 
various ports wherever the best freights were offered, 
and it was winter before we finally set sail for New 
York, where mother decided to go home to Milbridge, 
while father made a trip to the East Indies. 



20 DROPS OF SPRAY 



CHAPTER III. 

THROUGH STORM AND DARKNESS. 

We had friends in New York whom we wished to- 
visit, so shortly before our departure for Milbridge we 
went to spend a day or two with them. On arriving, we 
found their children down with measles. Neither 
mother nor I had ever had the disease, and against her 
better judgment mother yielded to the entreaties of her 
friend to stay. But it was at the bitter cost of her own 
life, as after events proved. Two days later we bade a 
tearful good-bye to father and took the steamer to Bos- 
ton. It was extremely rough and bitterly cold, the spray 
freezing as it fell. Outside of Hell's Gate we encoun- 
tered a furious gale. The captain was obliged to bank 
the fires and lay to under a storm try -sail. Annie was 
sick and frightened, as she always was in a heavy gale, 
and kept her berth all the way. But I rather enjoyed it. 

It was four days before we were able to proceed and, 
as we had been blown a few miles oft' our course, six be- 
fore we steamed into Boston harbor. As soon as we^ 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 21 

arrived, a telegram was sent to father, who must have 
been half wild with anxiety because we were so long- 
overdue. We were driven from the wharf directly to 
the railway station where we were to board the train for 
Bangor. All went well until within two miles of our 
destination. It was nearing midnight and the passen- 
gers were dozing in their seats, as there were no sleep- 
ing cars attached. Outside, the night was dark and 
stormy, and the fine particles of snow hurled themselves 
spitefully against the glass. Suddenly there came a ter- 
rific crash, which threw the people from their seats and 
caused a general alarm, which subsided somewhat as the 
train came to a standstill. Presently the conductor en- 
tered and informed us that the baggage car, next to 
ours, had been thrown from the track and turned com- 
pletely on its side. He said Bangor was only a mile dis- 
tant, and as the track was blocked with snow there was 
no hope of reaching there that night except on foot, and 
he should advise us to walk. There was nothing for 
it but to take the conductor's advice. And so, amid a 
chorus of complaints, wraps were donned and the pas- 
sengers stepped from the warm, well-lighted car into 
the storm and darkness of the bitter night. The con- 
ductor went ahead with a lantern and the passengers 
followed after. A gentleman volunteered to carry me, 
so mother got along very well. 

It was a long, dreary walk through the heavy, cling- 



22 DROPS OP SPRAY 

ing snow. But good or bad, everything comes to an end. 
The remainder of the night was spent in a hotel, and it 
was two days later before we were able to proceed. Moth- 
er then hired a team to take us to Milbridge, sixty miles 
farther on. The morning we started was bright and sun- 
ny, but intensely cold, and the snow sparkled like dia- 
mond dust in the bright sunshine. Merrily the bells 
tinkled as the pair of swift horses flew over the road, 
seeming to sing a sweet song of home, and as the keen 
air smote our faces it made our cheeks tingle and lent a 
brighter sparkle to our eyes. 

It was late when we arrived at my grandma's house 
in Milbridge, but mother had sent her a telegram from 
Bangor, so she had been expecting us, and had a roar- 
ing fire built in the fireplaces and a tempting repast all 
ready. Grandma lived on a farm, a mile from the town. 
She had six children, of whom mother was the eldest 
and Aunt Julia the youngest. The rest were boys, young 
men now, and all filling positions away from home. 

The house was a delightfully old, rambling place, and 
we always enjoyed visiting grandma ; and no one, not 
even our mother, could cook as nicely as she, in our esti- 
mation. She was overjoyed at seeing us and after we 
had lunched we retired, as we were all very tired. 

A few days later, mother and I were taken down with 
the measles. We were in our own home then and both 
grandma and Aunt Julia were with us. Mother was 



PROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 2& 

dangerously ill from the first, as the symptons were no- 
doubt aggravated by her walk through the snow on that 
memorable night. When at last she was pronounced 
out of danger, and lay white and exhausted on the pil- 
lows, we could see what ravages the disease had made 
in a few short weeks. Nevermore would the bloom of 
health return to those wasted cheeks, or the sparkle to 
those clear brown eyes. It was soon ascertained that 
her lungs were hopelessly affected with a disease which 
finally developed into old-fashioned consumption. Her 
heart was also very weak. 

As for myself, I was soon as well as ever, and able to 
attend school. I was as far advanced as any of my class- 
mates, as mother used to carry on our lessons while we 
were away. Thus a year passed and winter came again, 
cold and foggy. Just before Christmas, mother received 
a despatch which sent the blood for an instant to her 
white cheeks. Father had arrived in Boston and would 
be with us in a week. Joyful news, indeed ! I could 
hardly sleep or eat during the interval. One noon as 
we came dancing in from school, mother met us at the 
door with a radiant face. 

"Go into the parlor, girls, and see if there is any one 
there you know," she said gaily. 

We obeyed and were clasped close in our father's- 
arms. A year's absence had changed him very little. 
He had brought us many beautiful gifts from that Ori- 



:24 DROPS OP SPRAY 

ental world of magnificence, and had many wonderful 
stories to relate of his life while there — stories we never 
tired of hearing. And then the presents ! How they 
made our eyes shine ! Queer looking toys, sandal-wood 
boxes, beautiful Indian jewelry, camel's hair shawls, 
heavily embroidered with silks which, though soft and 
warm, could be drawn through a finger ring, so fine was 
their texture, delicate crape shawls, quaintly worked 
table covers in Oriental design, and countless other things. 
Nor was this all. In Boston he had bought us each a 
sled and a warm set of furs with cap to match. Annie's 
was gray, with a scarlet wing stuck jauntily in the cap, 
while mine was white, with a blue wing. We spent 
many a pleasant hour with our sleds while warmly 
wrapped in our furs and heeded not the cold. 

Father was terribly shocked at finding mother such a 
ghost of her former self, and declared he would carry 
her to some warm climate as soon as possible, as Maine 
was no fit place during the damp, cold winter months 
for a person with weak lungs. He would not entertain 
the thought for a moment that her case was incurable. 
He would take her up to Boston and have her examined 
by the most learned physician in the city. 

Two weeks after he came home, this plan was carried 
■out. He took mother to Boston and we were left with 
grandma. They were absent two weeks. I had never 
been separated from my mother before, not even for a 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 25 

night, and words could not tell how much I missed her. 
Surely no fortnight was ever so long 1 before. When they 
came back, the doctor's verdict could be read in their 
faces. Father's was pale and sad, while mother's wore 
a patient, resigned look, as beautiful as it was pathetic. 
No words of complaint passed her pale lips, no vain re- 
grets. God knew best ; and with a voice as calm as 
though she were relating a simple occurrence, she in- 
formed grandma that there was no hope. 

Of course we knew nothing of this until years after- 
ward. Mother had given her heart to God when a 
young girl. Many were the good deeds she performed, 
many and many a poor family blessed her name. She 
never turned a deaf ear to the tale of poverty and woe. 
Her purse was never closed in the face of suffering. Al- 
though life was sweet, yet death for her had no terrors. 



26 DROPS OP SPRAY 



CHAPTER IV. 

THE BRIG CADET. 

The first of March the brig Cadet reported in Boston. 
The captain wished to take a vacation and as father was 
one of the owners, he decided to take her for a trip him- 
self. He had never been in command of this brig be- 
fore, but usually went in the Tariffa, a much larger and 
finer vessel. But as he was anxious to get mother away 
from the fog and the cold, and the latter vessel was off 
on a long cruise, he decided the Cadet would do better 
than nothing. This decision set me wild with excite- 
ment, as I thoroughly enjoyed Old Ocean. 

Mother's health was very poor, and it was very doubt- 
ful if she ever saw her home and fireside in Milbridge 
again. But the doctor said it would prolong her life to 
be taken on a sea voyage. Annie was to accompany us> 
also mother's youngest brother, Gene, our favorite uncle. 

We took the steamer Lewiston for Portland, one cold, 
raw morning in March. There was a stiff breeze blow- 
ing and the bay was covered with white-caps. When 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 27 

we reached the open sea, we found it blowing almost a 
gale, and very rough, with every now and then a smart 
dash of rain from the lowering clouds. Mother stayed 
in the saloon all day, and looked very fair and fragile in 
her dark, closely fitting travelling dress. Annie was 
sick and lay in her berth all day, and neither ate nor 
hardly spoke. But when it wasn't raining I preferred 
to sit on deck, where, in a sheltered corner, warmly 
clad, I could watch the huge green, snow-crested waves 
toss and battle with the plunging, laboring steamer, 
flinging their foam and spray in showers across the decks. 
Thus the day wore away, and night closed in thick and 
foggy. The captain did not think it advisable to pro- 
ceed, so ran into Belfast and anchored. When I awoke 
the next day we were well on Our way. The sun was 
shining brightly in a cloudless sky, and but for a long, 
heavy swell, no trace of yesterday's storm remained. In 
due time we arrived in Portland. My father had a sis- 
ter residing there, and we proceeded to her home, where 
we spent a few days very pleasantly, and then continued 
our journey by rail. 

From the station in Boston we were driven to the 
American House, situated on the corner of Washington 
and Hanover streets, a fine hotel, though not so preten- 
tious as the Vendome, or one or two others in Boston. 
Here we stopped for a week, as Captain Leighton and 
his wife had not yet left the Cadet. I enjoyed hotel life 



28 DROPS OP SPRAY 

myself very much and was sorry when the time came for 
us to go. 

On the following Monday we went on board. The 
Cadet was rather small, being only 428 tons register, 
with flush decks. The cabin was small, finished in ma- 
hogany and oak, the dark panels being embellished with 
a small painting. There was no skylight, but there were 
two small windows in the after part of the cabin, and one in 
each state-room. Annie and I occupied a room together 
next to the bath-room. Just opposite was mother's bed, set 
in an alcove, with draperies drawn across. At the foot of 
the bed sat a tall chest of drawers. Next was the chart 
room; and there you have a pen picture of our floating 
home. A gloomy place to live in, but to die in, far 
worse. Even the thick carpet of Brussels that covered 
the floor was dark. How much different from the light, 
airy, commodious quarters of the Tariffa. 

The forward cabin contained a table, a Dutch-faced 
clock, and a swinging lamp, with a stove besides. Four 
state-rooms opened from the cabin, and a pantry. The 
galley and forecastle, of course, were well forward, as 
they are in all ships. 

We lay at Central wharf until the remainder of the 
cargo, which consisted of sulphur in bulk, was discharged. 
A donkey engine was employed for the purpose and I 
would stand for hours watching the great baskets of sul- 
phur come swiftly from the hold, while the little engine 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 29 

puffed sturdily. A minute they swung, poised in mid- 
air, then were lowered rapidly to the wharf. When the 
cargo was all out, the hold resembled a great yellow cav- 
ern. 

On the other side of the wharf lay a large four-masted 
ship. There were four children on board, and we saw 
them playing about the decks every day. Although we 
never got acquainted, yet we liked to watch them play, 
and I used to envy them their beautiful big ship. The 
R. B. Duncan was her name. As soon as the cargo was 
out, and the vessel cleaned, a tug came alongside and 
towed us over to East Boston, where we were to take in 
a general cargo for Port Chalmers, New Zealand. A 
general cargo consists of everything from a wash-tub up 
to a mowing machine, or an organ, and is called Yankee 
notions out in New Zealand and Australia. This wharf 
was close to the East Boston ferry, and a new source of 
emjoyment was watching the boats as they plied swiftly 
back and forth, carrying their crowd of pa.ssengers. 
They passed right across our bow and we never tired 
watching them. Then it was rare fun to see the cargo 
come in, scarcely half a dozen articles alike. It took us 
several weeks to load, as the goods had to be stowed 
with the utmost care to guard against breakage. And 
then we had nearly a four months' voyage before us. 
Provisions of all descriptions, and plenty of them, were 
brought on board, the water casks were cleaned and re- 



30 DROPS OF SPRAY 

filled, the crew was shipped, and lastly the vessel was thor- 
oughly overhauled, and the medicine chest replenished. 
Finally the day fixed for our departure dawned, 
rainy and cloudy, with a strong breeze blowing. The 
hatches were battened down, and covered with a tarpau- 
lin, and everything made snug. At an early hour the 
tug arrived to tow us down the bay. Away we went 
through the Narrows, past the fort, out on the heaving 
ocean, with the barometer steadily falling. Here the 
tug cast loose and steamed back to Boston, and we were 
fairly off. By dark, Cape Cod light was far behind us, 
and the vessel was rushing and tumbling through an 
ever-rising gale. We went to bed early but could not 
sleep. By ten o'clock, or four bells, the vessel was run- 
ning before the wind, under bare poles, with just a strip 
of canvas set to steady her. She rolled and pitched 
fearfully, while the water poured over the decks in tons. 
But she emerged triumphant every time, the water rail- 
ing in streams from the scuppers. The noises on deck 
were distracting ; the trampling of the men overhead, 
hoarse orders shouted, the rattle of blocks, the roar of 
the storm, all prevented sleep. Ever and anon would a 
wave strike the vessel broadside with a crash as of thun- 
der. She would quiver from stem to stern, and for one 
brief second would seem to stand still, then careen 
until the floor was literally perpendicular and it 
-seemed as though she must go over. Down below, every- 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 31 

thing that had not been fastened was travelling round 
from side to side with every roll of the vessel. The 
swinging lamp jumped wildly to and fro, until suddenly 
down it came with a sharp crash, and we were in dark- 
ness. Presently father came down, with the water run- 
ning from his oil-skins in streams. He fixed the lamp 
for us and went back. There would be no sleep for him 
that night. He never left the deck during a gale, day 
or night, except just long enough to snatch a hasty 
meal. 

The night wore on and presently daylight came strug- 
gling through the tightly closed shutters. It was im- 
possible to sit at the table, or even to make a fire in the 
galley, so the steward set out a bite to each one in the 
pantry. We could not even have the shutters down, as 
the force of the waves would break the glass, so we lay 
in bed until the gale, which lasted three days, was over. 
On the mornimg of the third day the sea had moderated, 
but was still very rough. By noon we were able to have 
the shutters down to let some light into the cabin, and 
how glad we were to see it once more. In the afternoon 
father said I might stand in the door and get a breath 
of fresh air. A board about two feet high was placed 
across the companion-way to prevent the water from 
running into the cabin. It is called a washboard. On 
the Cadet were two small doors that led on deck, and 
a scuttle drawn over the companion-way. In fair weath- 



32 DROPS OF SPRAY 

er this was pushed back. By standing on this wash- 
board and leaning over the doors, one could have a fine 
view of the ocean as well as of the vessel. As it was 
altogether too rough to venture on deck, here is where I 
established myself. I drank in great draughts of the 
exhilarating air, made pure by its journey of thousands 
of miles across the sea, and it sent the blood dancing 
through my veins like a tonic. 

The sea was still running mountains high, and it was 
with a feeling of awe that I gazed on that grand and 
thrilling sight. Who could doubt the power of God 
after seeing the ocean in a storm ! Our little vessel 
seemed but a speck on that vast, heaving expanse, and 
when presently the sun burst forth in all its splendor 
and lit up those hugh, towering, darkly blue, foam crest- 
ed waves, and the white-winged vessel, plunging and 
plowing through them, sending up the glittering spray in 
diamond drops — who could describe the scene ? A true 
artist, perhaps, but myself ! — I lay down my pen in de- 
pair. I love old ocean, in all its moods, but I cannot do 
it justice. It must be seen to be appreciated. 

Occasionally a wave would come racing down upon us 
and, striking fairly amidship, would pour in tons over the 
decks. There would be a warning cry from some one 
who had seen it coming, and the men would hold on for 
dear life to prevent being swept overboard, until it had 
passed. Then the gallant little vessel would shake off 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 33 

her burden of water and rise lightly on the crest of 
another wave. I coaxed Annie up for a little while, but 
watching the hugh waves tumbling round made her so 
sick and dizzy that she had to go below again. 

In a few days the gale was past, and we were running 
along with a fine breeze and all sails set. We were 
nearing the trades, and it was delightfully warm. I 
never found it dull on board ship at sea, as so many do. 
We had a fine library on board and, young as I was r 
reading was my favorite pastime, although sometimes I 
did enjoy my dolls. Mother cut us a whole colony of 
paper dolls, with which we had the greatest fun. Then 
there were the sea birds, that always follow the vessel 
through a long voyage until within a few hundred miles 
of land when they suddenly disappear. They feed on 
the scraps that are tossed overboard. There were alba~ 
trosses, cape hens, cape pigeons, and stormy petrels, or 
Mother Carey's chickens. And how beautiful they are ! 
There were several different colors among the albatros- 
ses. Some were pure white, some were brown, while 
one enormous fellow that father caught one night was 
speckled brown and white, with a long bill of a delicate 
pink. The spread of his wings measured sixteen feet 
from tip to tip. 

Would you like to know how we caught them ? I will 
tell you. On calm days, when not a breath of air stirs 
the sails and the sea lies calm and glassy, is the time the 



34 DROPS OP SPRAY 

fun begins. I will say right here that we never killed, 
nor injured one. We would take a long hook, and bait it 
with a shining bit of salt pork. Attached to this was a 
long stout line with a float. Almost as soon as it strikes 
the water the albatross has spied it. Down they come 
with a swoop, and paddle quickly along until they reach 
the bait, when one of them will dive and seize it. The 
hook catches in his long, hooked beak, and he is drawn, 
fluttering and screaming, on board. The hook is then re- 
moved. Some of them are very savage when caught. 
One day father caught two beauties, snowy white, and 
chloroformed them. We then measured them. The 
spread of their wings was twelve feet from tip to tip. 
They recovered from the effects of the drug all right, and 
when we let them go flew around as lively as the rest. 

We caught fourteen cape pigeons one day. They are a 
very pretty bird. Sailors are very superstitious about sea 
birds, declaring if one is killed purposely disaster will 
speedily overtake the ship. Sometimes on bright, breezy 
days we would see whole schools of flying fish. They 
would rise from the water with a whir, fly a short dis- 
tance, perhaps eight feet, then disappear, to reappear 
shortly. They looked very pretty with the sun shining 
on their small transparent wings. They are fine to eat, 
too, but quite a rarity as it is very seldom one is caught. 
They will not bite a hook and the only way to Catch them 
is this. On some dark, stormy night, when both wind 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 35 

and sea are dead ahead, place a lighted lantern in the 
how of the vessel. The fish will see the light and fly on 
board. Sometimes three will he caught in one night, 
never more, and seldom more than one. Fried a golden 
.brown, they are sweet and delicious. 



DROPS OP SPRAY 



CHAPTER V. 

OUR ARRIVAL IN PORT CHALMERS. 

After that first big storm we had fine weather until we^ 
were off the Cape of Good Hope, when we encountered a 
severe gale, which kept us prisoners a whole week. As 
it drew to its close, Annie and I planned a great dolls' 
party, as the weather was moderating. But we did not 
wait long enough. We intended to have it in the eve- 
ning, but all day at intervals the vessel would ship seas 
that, Breaking over the house, would run down into the 
cabin, and it kept us mopping the floors up all the time ; 
and it was the most discouraging piece of work that I 
ever undertook. Just as soon as we would get the floor 
pretty dry, crash would come another sea and we would 
have it to do all over again. By sunset the gale abated 
somewhat and no more seas were shipped, so we had our 
party after all, and a fine time we had too. Mother pro- 
duced some candy and nuts that she had saved for just 
such an occasion as this, and some pink and white frosted 
sweet biscuits. The cook made some wonderful animaL 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 37 

;! sugar cookies, and we had quite a feast. We decorated 
, our tiny table with bunches of wax matches, stuck in an 
empty cartridge shell. At the proper moment these were 
lit, to resemble candles. 

After we crossed the equator, on dark nights the sea 
would be one sheet of phosphorescent splendor, and every 
;sea that broke looked like a shower of diamonds, while 
far astern could be seen the vessel's track through the sea, 
resembling a glittering path of moonbeams. Truly a 
magnificent sight ! 

Nothing of note occurred the remainder of the voyage. 
We had now been 116 days, and had only been in sight 
of land once during that period. That was when we 
passed Tristam D'Acunha, when I longed to be on shore 
once more. One bright morning when I went on deck, I 
noticed with great delight that the deep, intense blue of 
the water had given place to a dark green, a sure sign we 
were approaching land. I will here state that you can 
smell land long before you can see it, and I will say that 
nothing this world can produce ever smells half so de- 
licious to the voyager who for many weary days has seen 
nothing but water and sky, with the briny air ever blow- 
ing in his nostrils, as a long whiff of the land. 

A few hours after, land could be discerned, looking 
like a bank of clouds on the horizon, and finally looming 
up blue and distinct. At four o'clock in the afternoon, 
-we were met by the pilot boat and took on board our 



38 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

pilot, who immediately took charge. By six o'clock we 
ran into the harbor with our colors flying and dropped 
anchor. No sooner was this done than we were surround- 
ed by boats, loaded with delicious looking fruit and vege- 
tables. The butcher's boat was also there, well stocked 
with choice varieties of meats. How good it looked. 
Why, we hadn't even seen a potato, nor an egg, nor a 
piece of fresh meat for nearly four months. Living on 
dried and canned goods for so long, with no meat but 
salted, you can imagine how longingly we gazed towards 
the market boats. They were liberally patronized, father 
buying nearly everything they had, as we had quite a 
crew to provide for. As for the fruit, there were grapes,, 
passion fruit, bananas, apricots, plums, and a fruit I never 
learned the name of, but which looked like a yellow crab- 
apple, but had a most peculiar flavor. I did not fancy it 
at first, but soon acquired a taste for it, as some people 
do for olives. I never saw any passion fruit in America, 
so I will give a brief description of it. It is about the 
size of a peach, oblong in shape, covered with a thick 
husk. The interior consists of a soft greenish pulp filled 
with tiny yellow seeds. The taste is very tart, but has a 
fine flavor. To be eaten, they are cut in halves, and the 
contents eaten with a spoon. We enjoyed a fine supper 
that night, consisting of chops, tender, juicy steak, vege- 
tables, and potatoes — and such potatoes, big, mealy ones, 
such as only New Zealand can produce, for nowhere in 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 39 

the world does this important vegetable attain the point 
of perfection it does there. 

There were no other American ships in the harbor, but 
a number of those of other nationalities, the English pre- 
dominating. The water of the bay was fairly alive with 
tiny red fishes, not more than an inch long. We went 
on shore but twice during our stay here. Once father 
took us all to Dunedin by train to see the sights. And 
one Sunday he took us ashore for a walk, and we climbed 
to the top of a small mountain that rose sheer from the 
water's edge and 'commanded a fine view of the harbor. 
When we reached the top and looked down, the ships 
looked no larger than tiny boats, while the people on their 
decks were about the size of ants. On our way back 
we gathered a large bouquet of wild flowers, which grew in 
great profusion, of every hue and color. We carried them 
on board to mother, who was passionately fond of flowers 
and who had been unable to accompany us. 

While here we met with a very nice couple, Capt. 
Thomas and wife, of the fine, iron English barque, the 
L. L'Egro. Her appointments were luxurious. The 
story of Capt. Thomas's life is well worth repeating. Al- 
though his education was not of the highest order, yet he 
was one of Nature's true gentlemen. Gruff and hearty 
as he was with men, with women and children he was 
gentleness itself, and no warmer, truer heart ever beat. 
When he was a small child, he was left homeless and 



40 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

friendless, at the cold mercies of the world. He had 
one overruling ambition, to become the master of a ship. 
Through difficulties that would have appalled many he 
bravely struggled on, never looking back, never discour- 
aged. First as cabin boy, then as common sailor, and 
still on, until he trod the deck of as fine a barque as ever 
sailed the seas, not only as captain, but owner as well. 
When a lad of sixteen, he lay for weeks in a foreign hos- 
pital, sick unto death with the small pox. He was only 
one of hundreds of patients and scanty attention any of 
them received. His face was badly scarred, but other- 
wise he was a fine-looking man. His wife and my mother 
soon became great friends. It happened both vessels 
chartered for the same place, Callao, Peru, with coal. 
We had to go to Newcastle, Australia, to take in our 
cargo, and we both sailed the same day, but our vessel 
.arrived a few days sooner, as she was the faster sailer. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 41 



CHAPTER VI. 

NEWCASTLE. HOTEL CUTERION. 

Newcastle is a small city, but one of the greatest coal- 
ing stations in the world. The harbor is badly exposed, 
and during a gale is often dangerous, as the coast is bold 
and rocky. There were several American vessels in the 
harbor. One of these was the barque Frank Marion, 
commanded by Capt. Dow of Prospect, Maine. Capt. 
Dow was accompanied by his wife, one of the finest wom- 
en I ever met. She was kindness itself to our dear 
mother, who was slowly but Oh ! how surely, fading 
away. Day by day her step grew slower, more languid ; 
day by day her cough grew more distressing, while the 
bright hectic flush burned redly on each sunken cheek, 
and those terrible heart spasms grew alarmingly fre- 
quent. Our precious mother ! All that could be done 
to render her closing days more comfortable was done. 
On those days when mother was confined to her bed, Mrs. 
Dow would come like a ministering angel, doing what 
she could for the sufferer's comfort. Clad in a cool, 



42 DROPS OF SPRAY 

white muslin wrapper, set off by jaunty ribbon bows, she 
would bustle about that dark little cabin like a veritable 
ray of light ; her bright, cheery voice and clear laughter 
making the wan face on the pillow brighter at her very 
presence. Sometimes she would stay all night. We 
fast grew to love that noble woman who was doing so 
much for us, utter strangers. Although her face was 
plain, it was glorified by the great soul shining through. 

We boarded on shore at the Hotel Cuterion while the 
vessel was taking in coal, as the noise and coal dust were 
more than mother could bear. We hired a suite and 
took our meals in our rooms during our entire stay there, 
and very fine rooms they were too. On this occasion I 
first tasted of the famous English dish, ox-tail soup, and 
pronounced it delicious. 

In a week's time the vessel was all loaded and we re- 
turned. It was with feelings of deep regret that we bade 
farewell to our many kind friends, but as fate willed we 
must obey. We made a quick run over and nothing of 
note occurred but once. The vessel caught fire down in 
the lazaret, but beyond giving us a severe fright no 
damage was done. 

When we reached Callao, we found the small pox in 
full sway. Hundreds were dying daily. We therefore 
discharged our cargo in lighters and did not go on shore 
but once during our entire stay and that was when father 
took us to the doctor's to be vaccinated. The U. S. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 45 

steamer Alaska was there, and twice a day, at sunset 
and sunrise, the reveille would be sounded and a cannon 
fired. Father made the acquaintance of the captain and 
he gave us an invitation to dinner. On the day set, 
mother did not feel able to go but would not allow us to 
remain with her, so we went. I had never before been 
on board a man-of-war and was charmed. Everything 
shone like glass; the decks snowy white, the brass-work 
gleaming like gold, and the formidable, black, shining- 
cannons, with the numerous sailors in their neat blue 
uniform, making a pleasing picture. The dinner was a. 
marvel of French cookery, and the table appointments 
luxurious. On the whole, I thought I should like noth- 
ing better than to go to sea in just such a ship as the- 
Alaska. We also attended religious services held on 
board of an English man-of-war while there. 

Our next destination was Iquiqui, a few miles farther 
down the coast. We only ran in for orders, and stopped 
but two or three days,when we proceededto Arica in ballast. 
When we arrived at Arica we found the town in a state 
of great excitement. I believe I did not state that grim 
war, with all its terrors, was raging with great fury be- 
tween Chili and Peru, and that the former was getting: 
the better of the latter. News had come that the Chil- 
ians were on their way to bombard the town. The very- 
next day they were expected and the inhabitants were 
panic-stricken, and no one can blame them, as the Chili- 



44 DEOPS OP SPEAY 

ans in war practice extreme cruelty and never give 
quarter. 

All, or nearly all the able-bodied men of the town had 
•gone to war, leaving only a very small garrison, which 
-could be speedily overcome. The old men, the women 
and children, comprised nearly ail the inhabitants. The 
-threatened attack came as a complete surprise, as the 
.town was almost unprotected. The only hope of safety 
ifor the inhabitants lay in flight. There were about six- 
ty-two vessels in the harbor, of all nations, waiting for 
freights. To these the people came in crowds and offered 
any price that might be named to be taken to Molendo, 
about four hundred miles distant. Some even gave their 
jewels in default of ready money. They did not over- 
look our vessel, if it was small, and all day we were sur- 
rounded by boats. Father carried all he could. A place 
was fitted up between decks with rows of berths. Those 
who were very poor and unable to pay, father took just 
the same ; rich and poor alike, not one was turned away 
until we had on board two hundred and fifty of them, 
which were all we could possibly make room for either 
on deck or down below. They all brought some lug- 
gage, but we had several people of wealth among them 
who brought several boat-loads each. Some of them 
took their meals in the cabin, but the majority ate on 
deck, as the confusion made mother worse. 

What a crowd of them, and what a jabbering in Span- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 45 

ish they did keep up, to be sure ! The women all wore 
black shawls of thin cashmere over their heads, mantilla 
fashion, while a very few wore mantillas of rich lace ; 
but not one wore any other head gear, and with all their 
hurry and fright they had not forgotten to daub their 
faces liberally with powder. None used it except the 
rich, and very repulsive some of the Grande Dames 
looked with their sallow, wrinkled faces streaked with 
powder, decked out in their rich dresses, with their 
fingers covered with rings. Some of the young women 
were very fine looking, indeed ; one in particular I no- 
ticed, a girl of sixteen. She was more than pretty. She 
was beautiful, with a soft creamy complexion, splendid 
dark, melting, Spanish eyes, and dark, luxuriant hair. 
She was tall and her every movement was replete with 
grace. She was richly clad in a dress of creamy, em- 
broidered Indian mull, set off by foamy laces. Diamonds 
twinkled in her ears and sparkled on her snowy hands. 
On her feet tiny bronze boots and on her head, and part- 
ly shading her fair face, was the inevitable lace mantilla. 
When this vision of loveliness stepped on board, I 
was lost in admiration, and her picture as she looked 
then was engraven on my mind, never to be effaced. 
I tried to make her acquaintance and as she was one of 
the cabin passengers, I had good opportunity ; but as she 
spoke no English, and I was equally ignorant of Spanish, 
we made very little headway. My admiration continued 



46 DROPS OP SPRAY 

unabated, and not even the powder, plainly visible on her 
soft cheeks, could lessen it. Annie did not take to the 
passengers at all, declaring that they smelled just like 
guinea-pigs and made her sick. There was one family 
among them, however, who spoke English very well, and 
who seemed to be very nice people. 

That night, about sunset, wind and tide serving, all 
sails were set and we stood out to sea. We were nearly out 
of sight of land when an alarming discovery was made. 
In some mysterious fashion a small pox patient had 
been smuggled on board. His face was one mass of 
running sores. Instantly the vessel was hove to, a 
boat lowered, and the unfortunate man placed in it and 
made as comfortable as possible. His two attendants 
accompanied him and two of our crew, who had had the dis- 
ease, were ordered to row them ashore. It was the 
only course open, as it would not have answered to ex- 
pose our crowded vessel to that dread disease. In the 
meantime we waited. The passengers knew nothing 
about it whatever, and although they wondered much 
what we were waiting for, still they said nothing. As 
soon as the boat returned, it was thoroughly disinfected, 
as were also the clothes of the two sailors. We then 
proceeded on our way. All went well, and after a pleas- 
ant run we dropped anchor in Molendo and landed our 
passengers. The vessel was then thoroughly cleaned 
and disinfectants were burned in it. Mother's health was 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 47 

now so poor that father decided to consult a physician. 
He prescribed goat's milk for a part of her diet. 

Goats are generally kept for their milk in that coun- 
try ; indeed, I saw no cows while there. Father pur- 
chased three large, handsome goats, one of which was 
accompanied by its kid, a beautiful little creature, snowy 
white. How pretty he looked as he gamboled and played 
about the decks. Goat's milk is far richer and more 
nourishing than cow's milk, but the yield is very small, 
as from our three we only got a quart a day. Father 
also bought two sheep, a flock of hens, two turkeys, and 
a pig. And what color do you suppose he was ? He 
was red, not a brilliant scarlet by any means, but more 
the shade of a red cow. You do not see many red pigs 
in this country, do you ? They are common enough in 
Peru, and very odd they look too. 

We went on shore many times in Molendo and en- 
joyed it very much. One day we were presented with a 
pair of rabbits, a pair of guinea-pigs, and a dear little 
black and tan terrier which we named Turk. 

Beautiful flowers grew here of brilliant hues and ex- 
quisite perfume ; knowing mother's passion for flowers, 
father rarely came on board without bringing her a 
large, choice bouquet, which brightened up the little cab- 
in wonderfully. He also bought a great variety of fruit, 
and our fruit dish always sat on the table heaped high 
with its luscious burden. There were pink-cheeked 



48 DROPS OP SPRAY 

peaches, great yellow pears, purple plums, and figs, 
golden oranges and soft green pines, all heaped together ; 
while on deck under the awning hung a hugh bunch of 
sun-kissed bananas. 

By the way, I wonder how many of you ever ate a 
pine. For the benefit of those who have not, I will give 
a brief description of this most delicious fruit. It is as 
large as a cocoanut, slightly oval in shape, in color sage 
green, with small prickly spots. Inside, it is soft, pink, 
and juicy, extremely sweet and full of large brown 
seeds. It is a fruit that I never saw outside of South 
America. 

Peru is a country where everything is cheap but water. 
That is sold at five cents a gallon. No small item when 
a vessel has to be supplied. It is very poor water, too, 
tasting flat and brackish. You may remember that 
Peru is a country where it never rains, for the reason 
that the Andes, being so tall, intercept the rain-clouds 
on their passage from the sea. It is very hot in the 
forenoon, as the burning winds sweep over the arid 
sands of the mountains, almost unbearably hot ; but at 
noon the sea breeze, cool and refreshing, begins and 
blows all the afternoon. So life is very pleasant there 
after all. 



FKOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 49 



CHAPTER VII. 

FIRED ON BY A CHILIAN MAN-OF-WAR. 

Father next chartered for Ancou, Peru, with a cargo 
of watermelons. We also carried three passengers, Pe- 
ruvians, a man and his two sons. They all spoke Eng- 
lish perfectly. We had been out but a few days, when 
one morning we sighted a large steamer directly astern 
and rapidly overhauling us. 

With a fair wind and every sail set, we were ploughing 
briskly through the waves, the glittering spray dashing 
in showers upon the decks. Fearing that the pursuing 
vessel might be a Chilian cruiser, father hid our passen- 
gers as they would surely be taken prisoners if found, 
and probably tortured to death. That they were chasing 
us was very evident. The excitement had brought 
mother on deck and she looked very young and pretty 
in spite of ill health as she stood near the rail, her 
fair face shaded by a white mull hat and a flash of ex- 
citement in her dark eyes as she watched the rapidly 
approaching ship. 



50 DROPS OP SPRAY 

The ship which was now very near proved to be a 
large man-of-war, but showed no colors. A few minutes 
more and the Chilian flag floats at her peak, while at 
the same instant a flash of light puffs from her bows and 
a cannon ball whistles harmlessly over our decks and 
buries itself in the sea. For answer, father ran our en- 
sign up but kept right on his course, thinking that when 
the pursuer saw that we were not a hostile vessel he 
would let us proceed unmolested. A second shot, still 
nearer, evidently meant business, and our vessel was 
quickly hove to. 

Presently a boat left the side of the cruiser and came 
rapidly towards us. It was rowed by four swarthy Chil- 
ians, while three officers, their uniforms glittering in the 
bright sunshine, sat in the stern. When they reached 
the side, the side ladder was lowered and they clam- 
bered on board. Their swords clanked ominously and 
struck terror to my childish heart, for I had heard so 
much of their wanton cruelty that the mere sight of 
one was enough ,to frighten me, although these three 
were fine, distinguished-looking men. They spoke Eng- 
lish very imperfectly. They told father they must 
search the vessel in quest of Peruvians. This they did, 
but failed to find our passengers. Father then invited 
them into the cabin and treated them to wine and cigars, 
after which they took their departure, apologizing for 
the trouble they had given us. When the steamer was 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 51 

a mere speck in the distance, our passengers made their 
appearance, still pale and trembling at their narrow- 
escape. 

We arrived in Ancou without any further incident. 
We were to stay here some time, so the sails were snug- 
ly furled, the awning put up, and things made as com- 
fortable as possible. A few days after we reached port, 
what vessel should come in but our old friend, the L. 
L'Egro. We were very glad, indeed, to see her again. 
She anchored close to us. I had a fine time fishing while 
here. Father went with us once, and several times my 
Uncle Gene took us when the boat could be spared. A 
fish, called rock cod, was very plentiful, easy to catch, 
and very nice, resembling very strongly our ordinary 
cod in taste. But there the likeness ended. The rock 
cod are spotted like a trout, and vary in length from six 
inches to three feet. The bait used is sardines. We 
used to buy it of an old fisherman who lived on shore. 
It was great fun. I caught fifty one day, and pulled 
them all in but three, which were too heavy for my small 
arms to handle. But Uncle Gene and Annie did not do 
nearly as well. 

Among the friends father made while here was a 
young American engineer, who ran the passenger train 
from Ancou to Lima, a distance of eighteen miles, over 
the most wonderful piece of engineering in the world. 
"The track is built across the mountains, of soft, yielding, 



52 DROPS OP SPRAY 

ever-shifting sand. Father took us up to Lima one day 
and Mrs. Thomas accompanied us. We went up in the 
morning and back at night, as there are but two trains a 
day. Lima was a large, beautiful city then, but has 
since been completely destroyed by the Chilians, though 
I suppose it has been built up again. We spent the entire 
day in sight-seeing, and partook of an excellent dinner. 
There were some magnificent cathedrals there, two of 
the largest of which we visited. We took the train 
home about six. Mother did not go with us, but we did 
not forget her, as many choice presents gave evidence. 
Mrs. Thomas and Annie rode in the cars, while father 
and I rode in the engine. Father had business in Lima 
nearly every day and often rode in the engine, but this 
was my first experience, and I was highly delighted. 
There were thirteen cars behind us, besides the baggage 
car. I sat on the high seat of the cab and held on while 
the engine rocked and swayed over the shining steel 
rails, while every few minutes the great iron door of the 
furnace was pulled open, letting out such a scorching 
blast of heat that it almost burned me while the coal 
was shoveled in. I certainly did not like that part of it. 
In Peru they do not put their dead in boxes, at least 
the poor do not, nor do they bury them in cemeteries as 
we do. But they bring them to the mountains, dig a 
hole and lay them in, wrapped in a shroud. They are 
sometimes buried in a sitting posture. After a time the 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 58 

sand, which never saw a drop of water, and is therefore 
very light and dry, blows off, leaving the head exposed. 
A grewsome sight truly, but a very common one. We 
saw several close to the track, with their long black hair 
floating on the sands, and their fleshless faces turned to 
the pitiless sun. 

Midway between Lima and Ancou is an oasis. Fancy 
running through nothing but hot yellow sand, which 
dazzles the eyes like snow under the burning rays of the 
sun, with not a tree or even a blade of grass in sight, 
and suddenly gliding into fairyland, as it were, a tract 
one mile square, covered with cool shady trees, emerald 
grass, spangled with a profusion of brilliant wild flow- 
ers. The contrast is as startling as it is delightful. But 
now we are past it, among the wastes of sand again. A 
few minutes more and we run into the station, and thus 
ends my first ride in a locomotive; nor have I ever wished 
to ride in one since. 

The next week would be Christmas, but it did not 
seem a bit like it to us. We always associate Christ- 
mas with a bright, cold day, the ground covered w T ith 
glistening snow, huge, roaring fires, turkey and its fix- 
ings, not to forget the mince pies and plum pudding. 
But here in this blistering hot climate, Christmas seemed 
out of place. We had roast turkey, however, one of our 
turkeys giving up his life to honor the occasion, and 
plum pudding as well, but we hadn't much appetite for 



54 DEOPS OP SPEAY 

such things. Fruit and cool dishes were more to our 
taste. We received a number of presents from our 
kind parents ; the one I prized most highly being a tiny 
set of ear jewels with a small ruby in the center of each, 
while Annie received a handsome gold watch. 

In the afternoon father ordered the boat, and we set 
out to visit a noted sea cave. After a long row, we 
came in sight of it. It was very large, and the waves 
rushed into the intense darkness with a hollow, moan- 
ing sound, which struck a chill to my heart. Around 
its mouth was a boiling caldron of foaming breakers, in 
which numberless sea lions gamboled and played, their 
bodies glistening in the bright sunlight, making a beau- 
tiful picture indeed. On our way back we stopped to 
call on Mrs. Thomas, and mother being very tired, we 
stayed to tea and spent the evening. And so ended a 
very pleasant Christmas in a hot country. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 55 



CHAPTER VII. 

A HAPPY DAY. 

Our next destination was the beautiful city of Valpa- 
raiso, Chili. The tide runs so strongly there that we not 
only had to have both bow anchors, but one at the stern 
as well. The tide sets in towards the shore and huge 
breakers roll in and dash upon the rocks, sending the 
spray high in the air. A stiff sea-breeze always blows 
in the afternoon, making it cool and comfortable, while 
it is very hot in the forenoon. It is very difficult to 
make the landing here and our boats were useless. Surf- 
boats from shore were hired, propelled by swarthy Chili- 
ans. 

Annie and I went on shore but once while we were 
there, although Mother went two or three times as she 
had some shopping to do. The day we went, mother 
was worse than usual and did not feel equal to the oc- 
casion. But as it was my birthday — I was ten — mother 
would not hear of our staying at home on her account. 
As we stepped on the wharf we were met by a friend of 



56 DROPS OF SPRAY 

father's, Mr. Bates by name, an American broker, who 
shook hands and remarked that he must make me a 
present, when father told him why we were there. He 
conducted me to a fine large store where he purchased 
for me the most beautiful wax doll I had ever seen, 
with eyes that would open and shut, and a face actually 
life-like. I have seen dolls in a great many countries, 
but never one that could compare with that. The price 
was five dollars. Remarking that even if it wasn't An- 
nie's birthday she must not be forgotten, Mr. Bates pre- 
sented her with an exquisite hand-painted china toilet 
set. Father also bought, us each a present, after which 
we repaired to a cafe, and were served with ice cream 
and cake. Before going home father bought us a large 
bag of choice bon-bons. It was very rough when we re- 
turned and we had great difficulty in getting on board. 
Mother named my doll Inez, and said Mr. Bates was 
very kind to remember me. Although she gave me a 
smile it did not reach her eyes, which were misty with 
unshed tears, as the thought rushed over her that ere 
another year had rolled around she would be lying with 
folded hands, locked in her last sleep. So the happiest 
day I knew for many weary years passed into eternity ; 
and as I laid my head on the pillow that night, with my 
mother's good night kiss warm upon my lips, in all the 
world there was no happier child than I. 

One dav melted into another with the same routine of 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 57 

taking in and discharging cargo, until the day came when 
we weighed anchor and sailed for Tal-tal, Chili, where 
we were to take in a cargo of saltpetre, for San Francis- 
co. Tal-tal is a very small, dreary-looking place, with 
the surf breaking in a long line of white foam on the 
sandy beach. It was very rough here the most of the 
time and the same precautions had to be taken in moor- 
ing the vessel. We were a long time loading, as the 
cargo was brought Off in lighters and they could not be 
very deeply loaded on account of its being so rough. 

Mother's health was failing very rapidly. She seldom 
left the vessel and received no callers, as the least ex- 
citement made her worse. Just before our departure 
father brought a physician on board to see mother, from 
an English man-of-war that was stationed there. When 
father asked him if she would live until we reached San 
Francisco, he gravely and sadly shook his head. It was 
impossible. She might live four weeks, not longer. He 
advised father to take a metallic casket on board as the 
thought of burying her at sea could not be enter- 
tained for an instant. 

Mother had an aunt residing in San Francisco, and 
before we sailed she wrote a long letter to her, and also 
to Grandmother Wallace, bidding the latter to come on 
to Aunt Kate's and meet us. "For," she added, "if I 
shall not need you, my children will." One beautiful 
morning in the early part of May we set sail for San 



58 DROPS OP SPRAY 

Francisco. Never did the sea look bluer, or the sun 
shine so brightly, for we were going home. Magic 
word ! Even the bonny Cadet seemed to know it, and 
danced merrily over the waves. Our dear mother, too, 
seemed better than she had for many a long day, and 
laughed and talked as merrily as a child. It was but 
the flicker of a dying candle. People suffering from 
that dread disease, consumption, often rally as their life 
nears its close. 

We had fine weather for three weeks and everything 
ran along happily ; when suddenly the blow fell. Moth- 
er's condition grew worse so rapidly that every ray of 
hope departed. Although looking very weak and ill, she 
used to come on deck as she could not endure the stifling 
air of the cabin. There she would lie back in her low 
chair, drinking in the bright, balmy air, sometimes talk- 
ing lovingly to us of what we must do when she would 
no longer be with us, speaking as calmly as if she were 
merely going on a journey ; but oftener gazing beyond 
us, with a far-away look in her dark eyes, as if she could 
already pierce the dim veil of the near future and catch 
a glimpse of that shining city, "not made with hands," 
which she was rapidly nearing. "With heavy hearts we 
would then creep away and converse in whispers, steal- 
ing a timid glance at the motionless form reclining in 
the chair. Father told us she was tired and we were 
not to disturb her. 



FEOM SOUTHEEN SEAS. 59 



CHAPTER VIII. 

THE DEATH OF OUR MOTHER. 

A week afterwards, in attempting to cross the cabin, 
mother was seized with a violent spasm of the heart. 
Father, who was on deck, was quickly summoned. We 
thought she was dying then, her breath came so painfully, 
so gaspingly ; while even as we gazed, horror-stricken, 
a crimson stream gushed from her pale lips. Quickly 
and silently father worked, administering stimulants, 
chafing her hands, and doing everything that could be 
done until the awful spasm passed, leaving her white and 
speechless as he laid her tenderly back upon the pillow, 
but alive still — Oh ! thank God for that. 

Presently her dark eyes unclosed and fixed themselves 
lovingly on our tear-stained faces, while one white, trans- 
parent hand was stretched feebly towards me. With a 
low, sobbing cry that could not be suppressed, I crept 
close to mother and put one arm around her, and clasped 
her closely, as though my feeble strength would hold her 
back from the dark valley which she was soon to enter. 



60 DROPS OF SPRAY 

She lingered for a week longer, but never rose from 
her bed again. One of us stayed by her night and day, 
fanning her fevered brow, or giving her cooling drinks, 
doing what we could for her comfort. 

We were now nearing the equator, and the weather 
was stifling ; so hot that on calm days the pitch in the 
cracks of the deck would seethe and bubble, and the 
paint crack and blister, while the sea lay like a sheet of 
molten fire, except for the long undulating swell. We 
were in the Doldrums, and day after day no breath of air 
stirred the sails, which hung idly against the masts, slat- 
ting noisily with every lazy roll of the vessel. Night af- 
ter night the sun went clown, and the stars came out, 
shedding their dim, soft light on the silent ocean. We 
should drift through them, sometimes aided by acatspaw 
or two of wind, in about three weeks. 

One morning upon coming on deck, father saw a large 
black speck rising and falling with the swell, some dis- 
tance off on the glassy surface. Bringing his spyglass 
to bear upon it, he discovered it to be a large green tur- 
tle, and it was not alone, for around it lay ten or twelve 
others, all very large. There they lay on their backs on 
the still water, enjoying a sound sleep in the hot sun. 
How they came there was a mystery ; probably from 
some rock or barren island somewhere near. 

Turtle soup would be an agreeable addition to our bill 
of fare, so father ordered a boat lowered, and jumping in 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 61 

the men rowed quickly off towards the turtles. They 
intended to harpoon them, and approached very softly so 
as not to awaken them, and when near enough, drove the 
harpoon into a vital spot. The turtle was then easily 
lifted into the boat. A still better way would have been 
to lift him into the boat without killing him, as a turtle 
is helpless when turned on its back ; but they did not 
think of this then. A second shared the same fate as 
the first, but the men were so excited, that when they 
w r ent to lift it into the boat, one of them caught hold of 
the harpoon, which was as keen as any razor, and his 
entire hand was laid open to the bone. It bled profuse- 
ly, and all haste was made to the vessel. While father 
was dressing the wound, the man fainted, but a swallow 
of wine and a whiff of hartshorn soon revived him. 
Father told the men to go back and get a few 
more, but not to hurt them, as he wished them taken 
alive, to kill as needed. Accordingly the men 
rowed back to the spot and picked up five more. They 
were then taken on board and placed in the long-boat, 
which was filled with salt water. 

Shortly after, we sighted two sharks circling round 
the vessel. They were big man-eaters, and not liking 
such dangerous companions, father baited an immense 
hook with salt pork, fastened it to a stout rope, and cast 
it over the stern. In a second it was sighted, and we 
saw one of the huge creatures make for it, turn with 



62 DROPS OF SPRAY 

lightning-like rapidity on its back, its belly gleaming a 
flash of white in the clear blue water, open its hideous 
maw, and swallow the baited hook. Then how he 
thrashed and writhed ; churning the water into crimson 
foam, as the blood ran freely from his mouth. They 
towed him close to the side, then, fearing the line would 
part, the harpoon was cast, which, striking a vital spot, 
soon put an end to his struggles. He was then hoisted 
on board and measured. He was eight feet from the 
tip of his nose to his tail. 

That night a gentle breeze sprang up, and we were 
able to make some headway, while the air was much 
cooler. Mother was very low the next day and we never 
left her bed-side except for our meals. That evening 
when the lamps were lit, filling the cabin with a soft 
mellow light, she seemed resting easier than she had dur- 
ing the day. We were thinking of retiring, when 
mother suddenly opened her eyes and looked wildly 
around the cabin as though in search of some one. "Is 
there any thing you want, mother dear ?" I asked, jump- 
ing up quickly, for I was frightened. Never before had I 
seen such a peculiar look in her soft eyes. "Your father, 
where is he?" she gasped. Annie ran and called him, 
Taut before he could get down the stairs mother had 
sprung up, and sitting on the edge of the bed began to 
gasp for breath, while the death dew stood on her fore- 
head in great beads, and her hands and feet were like ice. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 63 

In a moment father and Uncle Gene, whom Annie had 
also summoned, were by her side. The usual remedies 
were applied, but, alas ! brought no relief. She was past 
all human aid. The sufferer prayed with clasped hands 
and uplifted eyes. And then began that long struggle, 
in which the soul was struggling for release from that 
frail body, making it tremble and quiver with each gasp- 
ing breath she drew. I could not bear it, but ran scream- 
ing on deck through the crowd of sailors, who were all 
crowding round the companion-way, their rough honest 
faces bedewed with the tears they were not ashamed to 
shed, for one and all worshipped my gentle mother. 
Many a deed of kindness did they remember when they 
were ill, many a dainty dish had found its way into the 
forecastle, made by her own fair hands ; while she ever 
had a smile and a pleasant cheery word for them ; and 
now she lay dying and they would do her what homage 
they could. 

In my frenzy I would have thrown myself into the sea, 
if kind hands had not held me back. I raised my swollen 
eyes to the blue, star-gemmed, tropical sky above me. 
The stars shone like glittering points of light, while 
gently lapped the waves against the vessel's side. Even 
now, over that grief-stricken cabin swept the dark wings 
of the Death Angel, to bear away our darling mother to 
the beautiful beyond where many a loved one waited her. 
The soft wind seemed to whisper a message of peace, and 



64 DROPS OF SPRAY 

I stole softly back down the stairs into the cabin. The 
spasm was over, and she lay in father's arms like a 
broken lily, motionless and speechless. Uncle Gene 
stood near gently fanning her, while Annie sat on the 
sofa, with her face buried in her handkerchief. No one 
perceived me and I stood there hardly daring to breathe 
for fear of disturbing her. 

Not a sound disturbed the stillness except the gentle 
ripple of the water as the vessel softly glided through it. 
Even as I gazed she sank back into father's arms, and we 
— were motherless. 

After many weary days and pain-filled hours of night, 
she had gone to that rest she surely had earned. She 
had gone, and neither prayers nor wild entreaties would 
ever bring her back. We were hundreds of miles from 
home and friends. Surely the very angels in heaven 
must have wept tears of pity for us that night. 

With a long shuddering cry I turned away, and going 
into my stateroom, wept and moaned the whole night 
through, and not until near morning did I sink, exhausted, 
into a doze. 

No kind friends there were to come forward and per- 
form the last sad rites for our dead. But alone and 
unaided, except for what scant help Uncle Gene could 
give him, did father array that beloved form for the 
coffin. Dear Lord, it seemed more than mortal man 
could bear. Many times did he falter, while great sobs 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 65 

burst from his quivering lips. But at last it was finished, 
and she lay calmly on her snowy pillow ; a sweet smile 
on her waxen lips, and her small white hands folded over 
her silent heart. 

Mother was very small and slight, and was only thirty 
years of age. So young to die, when life had so much for 
her that was bright and joyful ! 

The next morning, upon opening my eyes after a brief 
sleep, I glanced towards mother's bed. For the first 
time in ten happy years no answering glance from loving 
eyes met mine, no gentle voice bade me a cheery good 
morning. Instead, my eyes fell on that rigid form out- 
lined under the white sheet. Annie was asleep and there 
was no one in the room. I sprang up, and running across 
the cabin, threw back the sheet and kissed her pale lips 
again and again. "Oh! mother, mother darling," I 
moaned, "come back or take me with you," while burn- 
ing tears fell on that calm, smiling face. Father heard 
me and, coming down, took me tenderly in his arms and told 
me if I would live as mother had taught us, that when 
we, too, were called, we would meet her in the bright land 
whither she had gone, where all was peace and rest. No 
more parting, no more tears, but a glorious reunion. 
Mother had suffered cruelly, she was now at rest, and 
Jesus had bade us to "Mourn not for the dead but for 
the living." 

Before he had finished Annie had joined us, and as he 



66 DROPS OP SPRAY 

uttered the closing word, he clasped us both in his arms 
while he said sadly: "My darlings, you are all I have to 
live for now." 

About nine o'clock four men came into the cabin bear- 
ing the coffin. Father read a chapter in the Bible and then, 
kneeling by the side of his dead wife, offered a simple, 
fervent prayer, his voice broken with emotion, while hot 
tears forced themselves from his closed eyes and rolled 
down his cheeks. Tenderly was mother placed within 
the coffin. We had no flowers, but father had a scroll 
saw, and out of some thin sheets of black walnut he 
made wreaths and crosses, and placed them on the coffin. 
He seemed to find comfort in doing so. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 67 



CHAPTER IX. 

OUR ARRIVAL IN SAN FRANCISCO. 

It was seven weeks before we arrived in port, and the 
loneliness after mother's death was something terrible. I 
could hardly endure to stay in the cabin, and spent most 
of my time on deck. Annie was different. From a little 
child she was always very staid and old-fashioned ; a reg- 
ular little woman, as those who knew her best used to 
call her. And the term suited. After mother died An- 
nie took the entire care of me, although I was only two 
years younger, but had never been taught to wait on my- 
self very much, and besides was rather a harum-scarum. 
She was as self-reliant and motherly as many girls of 
twice her age. She used to help me dress, comb my 
hair and keep my clothes neatly mended, and when 
many a night I started up with a cry for mother, it was 
Annie who comforted me. 

Just before our arrival in port we encountered a gale, 
which kept the cabin flooded most of the time and which 
I shall never forget. It was the first one we had had 



b» DROPS OF SPRAY 

since mother died, and of course we had to stay below 
and have the shutters up. It was necessary to keep a 
lamp burning day and night, and, worst of all, we were 
alone most of the time, as in the gale father could be 
with us but very little. The storm lasted for three days, 
and until memory fades away I shall never forget the 
blank desolation that filled that period. 

Before the gale was fairly over, I begged so hard that 
father had the shutters removed because it was so dark 
and lonely, and even the light of day was company, and 
seemed less drear. Annie noticed that one of the win- 
dow curtains had become badly torn, and she thought 
she would mend it as we were so near port, and she did 
not want any one to come on board and see that great 
rent. So, getting the necessary things together, she sat 
down on the sofa and patiently began her task. She 
felt weak and seasick but kept bravely at it until an im- 
mense wave came curling over the stern, and, breaking 
on the deck, sent a stream of water through the open 
window down upon poor Annie, drenching her to the 
skin. Then she gave up. 

Three days after, we sighted land about daybreak, and 
at two o'clock that afternoon, with a good, strong, fair 
wind and every sail set, we passed through the Golden 
Gate, that beautiful entrance to the bay, up which we 
swiftly sailed. 

Our flag was flying at half-mast and naturally at- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 69 

tracted a great deal of attention. Long before we 
reached the wharf, a tiny steam launch from the custom 
house was sent out to meet us and ascertain the trouble 
on board. When father saw it coming, he told us to get 
ready as he should take us right ashore in it before we 
reached the wharf. That did not occupy much time, and 
just as the little steamer puffed alongside, we came back 
on deck all ready. 

The side ropes were let down and an important-look- 
ing official, in full uniform, stepped on board. 

"What ship is this ?" was the first question. 

"The brig Cadet of New York, from Tal-tal, Chili, 
with a load of saltpetre," was the quiet reply. 

"Why is the flag at half mast ? Has there been mutiny 
on board ? Have you lost any of your crew ?" the officer 
asked brusquely. 

"My wife, sir," came the answer slowly and sadly. 
"These are my children," indicating us, as we stood 
leaning over the rail. 

"Ah, indeed !" and over the officer's face there stole a 
look of deepest pity. When asked if he would take us 
on shore, he answered quickly, "Most certainly." So 
we were soon seated in the steamer dancing merrily 
towards the wharf, leaving the vessel in charge of the 
mate. 

Aunt Kate lived in the suburbs, about three miles out, 
in a beautiful place overlooking the bay and the Golden 



70 DROPS OF SPRAY 

Gate, but the dummy cars, as they are named, carried us 
to 'within a quarter of a mile of the house, and it was 
a very pleasant ride. We enjoyed the short walk still 
more, as we had been confined to the narrow limits of a 
vessel so long that it was a luxury to be able to step on 
terra firma once more. 

We were now in the land of sunshine and of flowers, 
than which I never have seen more beautiful, even in the 
Tropics. When we arrived at the house we found that 
Aunt Kate was not at home. One of the girls was, how- 
ever, and she informed us that our grandmother had 
been there a week and had watched every day for our 
vessel. That afternoon they had seen a brig come in fly- 
ing her flag at half mast, and had come to the conclusion 
that it must be the Cadet, and had accordingly gone 
down to the wharf to make sure. We had missed them 
and decided to await their return. Father could not 
stay as he had many things to do that needed his im- 
mediate attention, so he went back on the next car, 
promising to return in the evening. 

Although our cousin Lizzie did everything for us to 
make the time pass pleasantly, yet it seemed hours before 
they returned. Grandmother clasped us closely in her 
arms but could not speak for tears. By and by when she 
had become calmer, she told us that they had gone down 
on board the Cadet as soon as she reached the dock, 
hoping to find mother still alive, and thinking perhaps 



PROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 71 

the flag stood for some of the crew. Alas ! What shock 
to that fond mother's heart to gaze on the coffin and 
know that it hid from her sight forever the dearly be- 
loved daughter, whom she had travelled so many miles to 
see. The very bitterness of death must have passed 
through her heart as she stood there gazing down upon it. 
But she was sustained and comforted by her son, our Uncle 
Gene, or she could not have borne it. They did not re- 
main long, but on finding we had already gone started to 
return, uncle accompanying them. 

Father came out that evening and spent the night, and 
the next morning we went down on board, as father 
wished us to remain with him until we started for the 
East. Of course grandmother came with us. Mother's 
remains were then transferred to an undertaker's, where 
she was removed from the coffin and placed in a metallic 
casket. 

Before we came away we went to a photographer's and 
sat for our pictures. No one knew we were going, as 
both father and grandmother were away and we were 
left to "keep house" for a short time. Cousin Lizzie came 
down on board and suggested the' idea to us, offering to 
act as our escort. We thought father would be pleased to 
have the pictures, as he intended to go on another long- 
voyage before coming home. When father returned he 
thanked us for our thoughtfulness, but grandmother was 
sorry that we had not waited for her, as We did. not stop 



72 DROPS OP SPRAY 

to "primp" very much, and she would rather have seen 
us nicely dressed. 

Father took us all to a restaurant one evening where 
we were served with strawberries and cream. They 
were the first that we had seen since we left home, 
such great, luscious, crimson berries and cream so rich 
and yellow. How good it all did taste ! 

I begged hard to be allowed to take my numerous pets 
home with me but grandmother would not hear of such a 
thing. What ! Take two guinea pigs, two rabbits and a 
dog way from San Francisco to Milbridge? She was 
thunderstruck at the idea, and I do not wonder. So I 
gave them all to my cousin Charles with the exception of 
my little dog Turk, which father wished to keep himself 
for company. 

At last the morning came when we must take our de- 
parture. Father engaged a compartment in the sleeping- 
car, and we were to take our meals in the dining car, 
but he had a hamper packed with the choicest deli- 
cacies the market afforded, for fear we might be hungry 
and need them. 

Mother's remains were placed in the baggage car. 
Father'accompanied us to the railway station, and stayed 
on the train until the bell rang when, clasping us in his 
arms, he bade us a tender good-bye, and his face, white 
and sorrowful, was the last one I saw as the train steamed 
slowly out of the station. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 73 



CHAPTER X. 

EIGHT DAYS IN A SLEEPING CAR. 

This was my first experience in a Pullman sleeper, 
and I found it very novel and delightful. Our way lay 
through a beautiful country, and I was never weary of 
gazing on the scenery as it flashed past. Over all lay 
the warm, fragrant June sunshine. 

By the time the lamps were lighted and the porter ap- 
peared to make up the berths, I was thoroughly weary, 
and glad to creep into the comfortable bed. The mo- 
notonous clickerty-click, clickerty-click of the wheels 
soon sent me off into a sound sleep, while the train 
rushed on through the darkness. 

I will only briefly relate our journey across the con- 
tinent. It was very tedious crossing the plains, with 
nothing in sight but the dull green sage-brush, and here 
and there a small pond of alkali water, while at regular 
intervals would we stop at a tiny station ; then onward. 
But when we were in among the mountains, it was 
simply grand. At one station at which we stopped the 



74 DROPS OF SPRAY 

scenery was especially awe-inspiring. Here an im- 
mense mountain reared its crest many hundreds of feet 
into the air, while at its foot nestled a clear, limpid 
lake whose waters lay in its shadow. From the top of 
this mountain, extending down the sides, was a natural 
slide, which looked to be about six feet wide and four 
high, and had the appearance of parallel walls with its 
foot buried in the still waters of the lake. It was a very 
wonderful place, bearing the name of "The Devil's 
Slide." 

We rounded "Cape Horn" at midnight, but as the 
moon was shining brightly, we were able to get a good 
view of it. The train stopped a long time at the station 
next west of the Horn and coupled on an extra engine , 
as it is a very dangerous pass, indeed ; although, owing 
to the extreme caution taken, no accidents have ever 
happened that I am aware of. Very slowly we steamed 
out of the station, and in a few minutes more had 
reached the Horn. 

We are right in the heart of the mountains now ; and 
their peaks can be seen as far as the eye can reach, ris- 
ing one above another, bathed in the soft, clear moon- 
light. All the passengers in our car are astir, gazing 
from their windows while they almost hold their breaths. 
Five thousand feet above us towers the solid perpendicu- 
lar rock, so near that it almost touches the car. Five 
thousand feet below us we can dimly make out the tops 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 75 

of the tallest trees, looking like mere twigs. Between, 
us and eternity, three feet, sometimes less, of ledge, 
around which the steel rails wind like a bright ribbon. 
I could not bear to glance down the awful chasm, and 
hardly drew a long breath until we were fairly round it 
rolling steadily along once more. There is grand, awe-in- 
spiring scenery in passing through the canons of Colo- 
rado. 

The Grand Trunk R. E. ran no cars on Sunday, so 
Saturday night found us in the beautiful French city of 
Montreal, where we took rooms in a hotel and the next 
day visited many of the points of interest. Monday- 
morning, bright and early, found us again on the cars. 

That night, while the train was rushing onward with a 
rattle and roar through the darkness, in the sleeper next 
to ours a little stranger came. Fortunately there was a. 
physician on board, and grandmother also was called: 
upon. In the dim, early light of morning, she returned! 
and I heard her tell one of the ladies in the section next 
ours that both mother and child were doing well. They 
reached their destination the next day and were tenderly 
removed from the cars and placed in an ambulance 
which had been telegraphed for. Nothing further oc- 
curred during the journey worthy of mention. 

We arrived in Portland late at night and were driven 
directly to the boat, which would leave for Milbridge at 
midnight. We retired as soon as we reached our state- 



76 DROPS OF SPRAY 

room, as we were all thoroughly fatigued ; and when I 
awoke the next morning the little room was flooded with 
the bright sunshine, while through the window my eyes 
rested on the blue dancing waves of the old familiar 
ocean. I jumped up, and with dismay found myself the 
sole occupant of the stateroom. Hurriedly dressing, I 
made my way on deck where I found Annie and grand- 
mother calmly discussing the contents of our lunch 
basket, and I speedily joined them. Later on we went 
down into the saloon and had a cup of hot coffee. We 
passed dear old Petit Manan, with its tall lighthouse 
gleaming white above the surf; and as we steamed slow- 
ly up the bay, past the old familiar landscape, my heart 
beat high with joy and gladness at the thoughts of see- 
ing home and friends once more. But the joy was o'er- 
.•shadowed by a cloud of sadness, as I thought of our 
dear mother brought home in her narrow coffin — dead. 
A crowd of friends and relatives stood on the wharf to 
welcome us, but in their greeting there were more tears 
than sunshine, which made the reunion seem so pain- 
fully sad. Our home had been all prepared for our com- 
ing, and Aunt Julia had a tempting supper ready. 
Mother's remains were taken out of the wooden box and 
the casket rested on a sable bier in the front hall, there 
to remain until the funeral, arranged to take place a 
week hence. Father wished us to put on deep mourn- 
ing for a year, and the very next morning the dress- 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 77 

makers came to fit us. They worked busily, and by the* 
following Sunday all was ready. 

Mother was a great favorite with all, and had hosts of 
friends. In her honor, the church was beautifully deco- 
rated with evergreen and flowers. Over the altar, m 
green, were the words, "Blessed are the dead who die in* 
the Lord." The casket was fairly buried in choice^ 
fragrant flowers which mother loved so well ; and even 
the grave was lined with evergreen. All that could be 
done by the people to express their loving sympathy was 
done. The services were very simple and touching, and 
at their conclusion sobs were heard, and there was not a 
dry eye in the church as the flower-covered casket was 
borne down the aisle and placed tenderly in the waiting 
hearse, while we followed, clad in deepest mourning. 
Slowly wound the long procession through the village, 
out to the quiet cemetery. "Dust to dust," the preacher 
said, and all that was left of our well-loved mother was 
laid in her final resting place ; and we turned away sad- 
dened and subdued. 

But even the sting of the deepest grief is deadened in 
time, and I was but a child. I soon learned to accept 
the new order of things as a matter of course, and 
thought of mother only as a tender memory. I missed 
her more as the years rolled on, and as I grew from girl- 
hood to womanhood. 

When next we heard from father he had chartered 



78 DROPS OP SPRAY 

for a port in the northern part of Russia, Vladivostok. 
His health was very poor, and he had been staying in 
Los Angeles several weeks getting rested, leaving the 
vessel in charge of the mate while taking in cargo. The 
mate was a native of Addison, Me., and was an honest, 
reliable man. 

So the weeks passed, finally bringing us a letter 
from father. He had arrived safely in Vladivostok, and 
was, oh! so sad and lonely, with no improvement in his 
health. There was no regular mail service there, so it 
was very doubtful if we heard from him again until he 
arrived at his next port. He had chartered for New- 
chwang, China, with a cargo of seaweed. As it was a 
distance of twelve hundred miles from Vladivostok, it 
would be months before we should hear from him again. 

So the long, hot summer days glided away and gave 
place to autumn's chilling winds. It was nearing winter 
when the eagerly looked for letter, bearing a foreign 
postmark, arrived. It contained sad news. Father was 
just recovering from a dangerous attack of pneumonia, 
and was still very weak, barely able to hold the pen but 
feeling as if he must write. 

This letter left us in an agony of suspense. The 
mails from China were very irregular, and it would be 
perhaps three months before we should hear from him 
again. Nightly I would kneel and pray God to spare 
my father's life and hasten his return. My prayers 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 79 

were answered, and the very next letter that reached us 
bore the welcome news that father was on the fair road 
to recovery, although it might be many months before he 
entirely regained his health. 



80 DEOPS OF SPEAY 



CHAPTER XI. 

JOYFUL NEWS. 

Thus two years, happy, peaceful years, glided into 
eternity. Grandmother was all to us that a mother 
could be, while Julia semed more like an elder sister 
than an aunt. One day a telegram was brought to us. 
The Cadet had arrived safely in New York from Hong- 
Kong, China, and in a few days father would be with us. 
Good news indeed ! Our excitement rose to fever heat, 
and we could hardly wait for the time that must elapse 
ere we should see him. 

I had just begun taking lessons on the organ, and 
there was one simple piece that I had learned to play 
perfectly for father. It was "Home Again, from a For- 
eign Shore," and now I renewed my practicing so as to 
be sure to make no mistakes when I played it for him. 

At last the eventful day arrived. We were at the 
wharf to meet him. How eagerly we scanned the pas- 
sengers for a glimpse of that dear familiar face as the 
steamer neared the dock. Yes, there he was crossing the 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 81 

gang-plank, but so pale and thin, a very ghost of the 
father to whom we had bidden good-bye in San Francisco 
so long ago, and many, seeing him, said in tones loud 
enough to be overheard by myself, "Why, Captain 
Brown looks dreadfully. He will not live three weeks." 
And it was a very wobegone little face raised to father's, 
as I was clasped close to his heart, while tears of which 
he was not ashamed dimmed his kindly blue eyes. 

Father was very glad to get home again, and in the 
evening I played my long-practiced piece, and was duly 
praised and kissed. The next day father unpacked his 
luggage. So many beautiful and costly presents I had 
never before seen. They gave mute evidence of where 
his thoughts and heart had been though thousands of 
miles did separate us. There were satin fans, hand 
painted and mounted on carved ivory sticks. There 
were curious cabinets inlaid with pearl and ornamented 
with quaint Chinese figures, jewel boxes, tall Chinese 
vases encircled by gilt dragons and covered with raised 
flowers, curious pin cushions fashioned of gaily colored 
silk, in the shapes of birds beasts and fishes, a beautiful 
carved work-box and a camphor-wood chest for each of 
us, jars of preserved ginger which was delicious, and 
also a jar of dried fruit, the name of which father did not 
know but which was fine, and numerous other things. 
I must not forget the silk dress pattern he chose for us. 
Silk so rich and heavy it would actually stand alone, but 



82 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

which was never made up, and why ? The color was a 
brilliant vivid purple. Poor father knew no more about 
buying a dress than a child would, and had helplessly 
appealed to a great silk merchant in Hong-Kong, of 
whom he bought it. On giving our ages, the Chinese 
showed him this piece as the most suitable. And last, 
but by no means least, he had had our pictures copied 
with mother's, in a life-size oil painting, done on silk 
and framed in a costly gilt Chinese frame. And as I 
looked at all those beautiful and costly gifts gathered 
from all parts of China and Japan, my heart filled to 
overflowing with love and gratitude for that kind father, 
who in all his pain and sickness had never forgotten his 
little girls at home. 

Father had consulted an eminent physician in New 
York and he had ordered horseback riding as a beneficial 
exercise. So father straightway purchased a horse, a 
beautiful chestnut mare with long flowing tail and mane. 
Although very high spirited and mettlesome, she was, 
withal, as gentle as a lamb and Annie used to drive her 
without fear. Many hours of the early morning did my 
father spend in the saddle, scouring the country around 
and gaining health and strength with every passing day. 

After father had been at home a few weeks a subtle 
change came over him. Always neatly dressed, he be- 
came fastidious, and we got fewer rides than formerly. 
The meaning of this was plain — love. Yes, my father 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 83 

was deeply in its toils. The object of his affections was 
a fair young widow, scarcely more than a girl, whom 
he had met on the boat from Portland, on his way home. 
He learned that her name was Kate Strout, the widow 
of a lawyer, to whom she was married when very young, and 
by whom she had been left a widow when nineteen. She 
was now twenty and resided in Milbridge. 

This much he had learned and communicated to 
grandmother, who was not at all pleased with the turn 
affairs had taken. 

The weeks passed when one day father called us to 
him and told us that soon we should have a new mother, 
and that we must love her very much for his sake, and 
he hoped for her own. Of course the idea of another 
woman coming to supplant mother was very repellent to 
us, as it is to all children at first ; still, it could not be 
helped and affairs went smoothly on. I made up my 
mind that I would call her mother, and try to give 
her the love that was her due, although it cost me a 
struggle as I had not forgotten my own mother, nor ever 
should while memory lasted. 

One day she called and took Annie and me for a drive, 
and before it was finished I was completely infatuated 
ivith her, as father had been. She was very pretty, with 
fair hair, a clear, fresh complexion, large innocent blue 
<eyes and the whitest of teeth, while she was tall and well- 
formed, in direct contrast to my mother, who had been 



84 DROPS OP SPRAY 

small and slight, with large melting brown eyes. Very 
tenderly did our future stepmother talk to us, and when, 
she left us at our own gate and pressed her soft red- 
lips to mine the conquest was complete, and I watched, 
her drive off with father sitting by her side with mingledi 
feelings of love and admiration. 

Not so Annie. She was not so easily won, and al- 
though she always liked and respected my stepmother,, 
yet she never loved her nor would ever call her mother. 
She could not lightly give the sacred name of "mother" 
to a stranger, and no woman, however true and. 
tender she might be, could ever usurp for one instant, 
mother's place in that loving, loyal heart. 

The wedding day dawned clear and bright. They 
were to be married from the home of an aunt of the bride,, 
who resided in Steuben,] five miles distant from Mil- 
bridge, and go directly away on their wedding tour, to be 
absent three weeks. We did not attend the wedding 
but I saw the bridal dress. It was soft, snowy muslin 
over pale blue silk, trimmed with quantities of rich 
foamy laces. The veil was of tulle and fell in misty 
folds about her slender form. It was fastened on her 
head with fragrant lilies of the valley, while she carried 
a bouquet of the same sweet flowers. From beneath the 
folds of her dress peeped white kid slippers. Very fair- 
she must have looked in her bridal robes, and father 
might have been forgiven for the pride he felt in her. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 85 

While they were absent the house was put in order, 
newly furnished and everything made as bright as pos- 
sible. Grandmother felt terribly, and small wonder at 
it. She had more than filled a mother's place to us, 
had worked long and faithfully for father's comfort as 
well as our own, and, moreover, loved us with a devotion 
no step-mother could ever give. 



DROPS OP SPRAY 



CHAPTER XII. 

OUR STEPMOTHER. 

At the end of three weeks they returned and came di- 
rectly home. Our new mother was clad in a stylish trav- 
elling suit and looked prettier than ever, while father 
was radiant and looked ten years younger. Grand- 
mother and Aunt Julia returned to their home in the old 
farmhouse the same evening. 

Thus commenced a new rule. We soon found out that 
although they were silken fetters that bound us, yet 
they could be as inflexible as steel. Our new mother's 
word was law, from which there was no appeal, but I 
will say that so long as we obeyed her and tried to do 
what was right we ever found her kind and indulgent. 
She was very young and was placed in a hard position 
for one of her years, and I honestly think she did her 
best to make the home happy and comfortable ; in fact, 
all that the word implies. 

They had been married a year when father bought a 
large share in the barque Illie, of some eight hundred 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. , 87 

tons register and but six years old, a fine, staunchly^, i 
built vessel. He decided to take a trip in her, and alsoi < 
to take my step-mother and myself along with him.. An- 
nie did not care to go, so father left her with; his brother, 
Uncle Lewis, also a sea captain. Since father's sec- 
ond marriage very cool relations had existed between 
him and grandmother and although she would have been 
very glad to have kept Annie with her during our ab- 
sence, father would not allow it. Annie was to attend 
the East Maine Conference Seminary at Bucksport dur- 
ing the terms and spend her vacations with Uncle Lewis. 
It was very uncertain how long we should be* absent, but 
probably two years or more. 

Mother's health at this time was extremely delicate, 
and she was strongly advised by her many friends to re- 
main at home, but she could not bear to be parted from 
father so soon, and was willing to risk all rather than 
stay at home. I felt very bad at the prospect of parting 
from Annie, who gave me many injunctions to follow, 
and much good advice the morning we started. 

It was the first of January when we arrived in Bos- 
ton where we were to join the vessel. Everything was 
in readiness for us, and we went directly on board. We 
found the Illie had much better accommodations than 
are usually found on a merchantman. The captain's 
state-room was especially large and roomy. It had two 
windows, and contained a large French swinging bed- 



88 DROPS OF SPRAY 

stead, which was stationary when in port, but was an ex- 
cellent arrangement at sea, as it was weighted in such a 
manner that when the vessel rolled one way it would 
swing in the opposite direction and thus always keep up- 
right. It was invaluable in case of sickness, as no mat- 
ter how rough it was, the person occupying it scarcely 
felt the motion. There was also a large dressing case 
and a comfortable couch. The floor was covered with a 
soft, pretty carpet, and when mother put up snowy lace 
curtains at the windows it made a cozy little room. 

The after cabin was large and roomy with a skylight 
on top, which let in an abundance of light and also ex- 
tended over a portion of the forward cabin. It was 
painted in white, relieved in gilt, and contained a com- 
fortable sofa, several pretty rockers, and a large, stuffed 
sleepy-hollow chair. The floor was covered with a 
warm Brussels carpet, while a pretty hanging lamp was 
suspended from the skylight. My state-room was oppo- 
site mother's and the chart room next to hers, while 
next to mine was the bath-room, which was luxuriously 
appointed. 

Leading from the after cabin was a short passage 
provided with a slat door which we always kept closed 
in hot weather, while the outer door remained open, thus 
allowing a cool current of air to circulate through the 
cabin and keeping out the heat and glare of the sun. 
Over each companion-way was a skylight. The forward 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 89 

cabin was grained, and its floor finished in hard wood, 
laid with alternate stripes of light and dark. The main- 
mast went through this cabin and the table was built 
around it. From this cabin opened the pantry, the two 
officers' rooms, and a spare state-room. On the whole, I 
was very much pleased with my new quarters, and 
looked forward to a long voyage with feelings of unal- 
loyed pleasure. 

I had an uncle in Boston and many friends in Chelsea 
whom I visited frequently while there. My uncle took 
me to the theatre twice, once to see that great Irish ac- 
tor, Dion Boucicault, in his celebrated play, "Colleen 
Bawn" at the Boston Museum. It was a beautiful play, 
and I sat like one entranced until the curtain fell on the 
last act. I also went to see "The Silver Spoon," which 
was very good. I was taken to the various places of in- 
terest and enjoyed myself very much. Mother gave me 
a diary on my birthday with the request to write a short 
paragraph daily, which injunction I faithfully kept. 

We chartered for Sydney, N. S. W., with a general 
cargo. I had lost none of my interest in seeing the car- 
go put into the hold, and would stand for hours leaning 
on the railing, unheeding the cold, watching the many 
and varied articles that are contained in a general cargo. 
In the lot was a consignment of twenty organs and a few 
mowing machines and rakes, besides hundreds of smal- 
ler articles. 



90 DROPS OF SPRAY 

It took several weeks to load, as everything had to be 
stowed very carefully. But at last the day came when 
all was ready. In our crew were first and second offi- 
cers Whitten and Strout, both natives of Harrington, Me., 
a mulatto cook and his wife, Minnie, who was white and 
hailed from England. All the rest of the crew were ne- 
groes, a boson and eight common sailors ; and a more 
light-hearted, willing set of sailors I never saw. Al- 
ways cheerful, always happy, it was a pleasure to watch 
them at their work, and whether it was pulling on ropes, 
pumping out ship, or heaving up the anchor, they always 
burst forth into song. One would sing a few lines alone, 
then all the rest would join in the chorus, keeping per- 
fect time. Such jolly, rollicking songs they were too. 
I loved to hear them. Of course they were slow, but 
they did each duty faithfully ; and when above the roar 
of a gale I could hear the voices of our darky crew ris- 
ing loud and clear above the sound of wind and sea in 
one of their cheerful "chanteys," a feeling of safety and 
comfort stole over me, and in my heart I blessed them 
for it. 

It was a lovely day — the fourth of March — with a 
spanking breeze ruffling the blue waters of the bay into 
snowy whitecaps, with the sunshine clear and bright, that 
we bade farewell to Boston and were towed swiftly down 
the bay, through the narrows, past the gray old fort out 
to the open sea, where both pilot and tugboat left us to 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 91- 

pnrsue our journe} 7 of fifteen thousand miles across the 
boundless ocean. All sails were set and, with a fair 
wind and Over rising sea, we stood bravely out past Cape 
Cod Light, which by dark, was a mere speck miles 
astern. 

Both wind and sea grew heavier every moment ; the 
sun went down in stormy splendor amid the clouds and 
darkness and flying spume, dyeing the angry waves 
blood-red, until by ten o'clock it blew a hurricane. At 
sea, the hours of the watch are told off by a large bell 
which hangs just over the binnacle and is rung every 
four hours, and twice in the "dog-watch" or from four to 
six, P. M. Thus twelve o'clock is eight bells; thatis, 
the bell is struck eight times. Four o'clock is six bells,, 
six o'clock is four bells, and eight o'clock is eight bells. 
The crew is divided into two watches, port and star- 
board, under charge of each of the officers. While one- 
watch is down below, the other stays on deck, but in the 
dog-watch they are generally all on deck while in stormy- 
weather or when near land. Father never came below 
except to his meals, until all danger was past. 

But to return. Mother and I were both sick; that is, 
1 wasn't very sick,but wanted to keep as quiet as possible, 
while mother was very ill indeed. The shutters were 
closed and the swinging lamp shed a sickly glare over 
the cabin. Ever and anon, a huge wave would strike 
the side with a crash that would make the staunch ves- 



92 DROPS OP SPRAY 

sel quiver like an aspen leaf, sweep completely over the 
"house," and pour in streams down the shutters. Sleep 
I could not. Every four hours the bell would ring out, 
sounding far off and subdued above the dull roar of the 
tempest. Then the outer cabin door would open, and 
the roar would be almost deafening until it blew to with 
a bang and I could hear the mate stumbling down the 
stairs in his dripping oil-skins, knock loudly on th e 
door of the second mate to rouse him, then "turn in" to 
his own room and snatch a few moments' sleep. 

As often as he could, father would make us a flying 
visit to see if all was well, for Minnie, too, was sick, and 
unable to attend mother. I can see him yet, standing 
under the flickering light of the wildly swinging lamp, 
~the water running off his oils-kins in streams, his face 
all wet with rain, beaming kindly at us from under his 
dripping sou'wester as he told us how the Illie was 
-weathering it. But these welcome visits were few and 
iar between, as a ship at sea is always in danger, and a 
-captain cannot leave his post be he ever so weary. 

The hours wore on. Suddenly there came the order 
;sharp and clear, "All hands on deck to take in sail." A 
reef must be taken m the storm trysail, and presently a 
loud trampling of feet over our heads told that the men 
were busy at their task. A swift, violent lurch, and the 
heavy main-boom swung far out over that seething cal- 
>dron with the men clinging to it like flies. It swings 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 9S 

back, but 0, my God ! — one of their number is missing. 

A long, agonized cry rises above the roar of the tem- 
pest, and an answering shout comes from the vessel. 
"Man overboard !" a cry that seems to freeze the very 
blood in our veins as we lay in awful, breathless sus- 
pense. Instantly a life preserver is thrown over the 
side in the hope that the poor wretch may be able to 
grasp it. As quickly as possible the vessel is brought 
to and a boat lowered, but alas ! it is capsized as soon as 
it touches the water. In that awful wind and sea no 
boat could live an instant. 

The men try to peer through the darkness, but can 
see naught but huge foaming waves breaking on every 
side. They halloo, but naught replies but the shriek of 
the tempest, except for that one heartrending cry of 
"Help! Oh Help!" No other sound have they heard. 
Poor fellow, poor fellow, beyond all human help, and 
with this knowlege thus forced home to them, they turn 
away, with heavy, saddened hearts. 

Only a negro, but with a soul as white as ours. 

The gale lasted three days, during which the vessel 
rolled frightfully. Down she would roll to starboard, 
bringing up with a tremendous jerk ; then to port. Some- 
times she would get into the trough of the sea — which 
means to swing broadside on the waves — when it seemed 
as if we must roll over, until by great exertion she was 
brought head on to the wind and the waves once more. 



94 DROPS OF SPRAY 

111 a heavy gale it always required two men at the wheel. 

At the end of three days the gale was over and naught 
remained of its late fury except a heavy swell, while 
not a breath of air ruffled the intense blue of the enor- 
mous oily rollers. The shutters were now removed and 
the windows opened to the welcome light and soft balmy 
air. For the first time since our departure I was able to 
appear at the table and eat with some degree of appetite. 
Not so with mother. Many days passed before she was 
able to leave her bed and crawl weakly on deck, where, 
in a comfortable deck chair, she could sit and drink 
in new life with every breath of the delicious sea breeze, 
thus improving rapidly. In Minnie, who was now fully 
recovered, she found an excellent, cheerful nurse. 

We were now running into warmer weather every day 
and in two weeks were fairly in the "trades" and with a 
.steady fair wind were bowling along merrily. 



PROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 95 



CHAPTER XIII. 

A LITTLE STRANGER. 

We had been out sixteen days, when one morning 
when I awoke, an air of mystery pervaded the cabin. 
Mother's door was closed and father and Minnie were 
with her. Hastily dressing, I partook of a light break- 
fast and went on deck . 

It was a beautiful day. The seabirds circled overhead 
while the blue waters of the ocean flashed and scintil- 
lated in the bright sunshine, and over all arched the ten- 
der, smiling heavens. I saw father come on deck once with 
a white, anxious face, address a few words to Mr. Whit- 
ten, and go below again. I was soon absorbed in my 
book, and was surprised when eight bells rang out loud 
and clear. Somewhat mystified, I went below and ate 
my dinner. Father did not appear, but before I finished 
Minnie joined us, and informed me that mother was 
sick. After the meal was over I went back on deck. 

The hours pass. Six bells, and with a weary sigh I 
arise and turn to go below. Mr. Whitten sees me and 



96 DROPS OP SPRAY 

comes over. "We have picked up a little stranger since 
morning," he says with a twinkle in his dark eyes. Be- 
fore I can reply, I see father standing in the companion- 
way. The white, worried look is all gone, and in his 
eyes is a light that I nearer saw before. "Come down 
and see who is here," he called out gaily. With a beat- 
ing heart I follow. Mother is lying back on the pillows, 
pale and wan, but with a happy light shining all over her 
face, while beside her wrapped in soft, white flannels an d 
lace, lies a tiny, golden-haired babe, with its mother's 
large, innocent blue eyes. With a full heart I leaned 
over him and softly kissed his chubby face. I placed 
my finger in his soft pink hand, which immediately 
closed tightly over it, and with the touch of those tiny, 
velvet fingers a great love was born in my heart for this 
dear, wee bit of humanity, and I registered a solemn 
vow to be to him a fond and faithful sister. 

Mother gained strength very slowly, but the baby was 
a strong, vigorous little chap and grew like a weed. 
When he was three days old, father actually carried him 
on deck and proudly exhibited him to the admiring 
crew, who had been summoned aft for the purpose. They 
crowded around and gazed down upon the tiny stranger 
with their honest black faces wreathed in smiles, 
for they considered it a great honor to be called aft just 
to admire "Massa Cap'en's little son." 

As he grew older, the baby developed into a very 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 9T 

handsome little fellow, and was the pet and darling of 
the whole ship. He had a pink and white complexion, 
and his soft, golden hair clustered in bright curls all 
over his small head. They named him Sydney, in honor 
of our destined port, as it was the first land he ever 
stepped on. The days passed pleasantly. Sometimes 
we would amuse ourselves catching the seabirds that 
flocked overhead. Mother wanted a muff made of the 
breasts of albatrosses, and she laughed at the popular 
superstition regarding them. So, much against his will, 
father ordered four of the finest to be killed, the method 
employed being to run a long, sharp needle into the 
brain, when death was instantaneous. Whether there 
is any truth in the superstition or not it was certainly 
verified in this case, as the Illie never reached American 
waters again. 

When we reached the Doldrums it was very monoto- 
nous, and so hot. Morning after morning would we 
open our eyes on the same heaving, glassy sea, with the 
burning sun riding in the clear metallic blue of the heavens. 
Night after night would we watch it sink to rest, a fiery 
ball in the quiet ocean. And the stars would come 
peeping out, points of light in the soft, purple sky. In 
vain we sighed and panted for a breath of cool air. 
None came ; the sails flapped idly against the masts 
with every lazy roll of the vessel. Poor little Sydney 
drooped and faded under the burning heat. The touch 



98 DROPS OF SPRAY 

of the bare hand on the hot deck was painful, while every- 
thing was cracked and shriveled. We had plenty of 
water, but it was so warm and tasteless as to be most 
unpalatable unless mixed with lime juice or claret. 
Oh! how I longed with an intense longing for a cool 
drink of spring water. 

At last, as I awoke one morning, came the welcome 
sound of the water, whirling swiftly beneath the vessel's 
counter. We were past the fearful Doldrums, and every 
sail strained as the Illie lay well over to the smart 
breeze. As you approach the equator, going south, a 
day is gained ; while sailing from it a day is lost. It 
happened that the extra day, and the day before fell on 
Sunday. It seemed very strange to retire Sunday night, 
and arise the next morning and find it still Sunday, and 
we observed them both. No unnecessary work was al- 
lowed on either day, and it was extremely dull. 

Off the Cape of Good Hope we encountered the usual 
heavy gale which is generally raging there. It lasted a 
week. It was too rough for us to be on deck so we 
spent the most of the time in bed. The shutters had to 
be kept up and the lamp lighted during the entire week. 
The table was not set at all, nor could hot coffee be ob- 
tained as it was impossible to light a fire in the galley 
stove. We lived on biscuit and canned stuff that week. 
Minnie was'not visible, and mother was sick, so I had to 
get her what she required, and also attend Sydney. It 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 99 

was Tiard work as I could scarcely make my way around 
the cabin the vessel rolled and plunged so badly. During 
this gale the cook caught several flying fish, which were 
nicely fried and served for our breakfast, as soon as the 
weather moderated sufficiently to permit the fire to 
burn. They are my favorite fish, and are very rare. I 
always saved the delicate, cobwebby wings and brought 
them home to present to my friends, who considered 
them a great curiosity. 

One bright morning, several days after the storm, as 
we sat at breakfast, came a loud cry of" Sail Ho" from 
the lookout. A welcome diversion! We rushed on 
•deck and could just decern a small speck on the horizon. 
It was a vessel, sure enough, and she was coming rapidly 
toward us. If she came near enough we would signal 
her. 

To those who have been on the sea so many weeks, 
nothing breaks the monotony so pleasantly as to come 
up with a ship and speak her. How handsome and 
.stately she looked as she came rapidly toward us rising 
and falling on the flashing blue waves, a white curl of 
foam breaking away on either side of her sharp black 
bows, while her snowy canvass rose sail on sail, a mass of 
dazzling white. She was a large, full-rigged ship, and 
her decks were crowded with passengers of both sexes. 
Hastily we ran up the American ensign. Would she re- 
spond '! A moment, and we see the blood-red flag of 



100 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

England run gracefully up. And now comes the fun. 
Rapidly the signals are exchanged. What ship is it ? Who 
is in command ? Where from? And where bound ? And if 
all is well with her ? And we give her the same informa- 
tion. How interesting it is to watch the pretty signals 
flutter quickly to her peak, while we as quickly answer. 
Then they are hauled down and up go a different set. 
We are now too far away to clearly discern the mean- 
ing of the signals, so we dip our flag three times, which 
is in token of good-bye. The signal is courteously re- 
turned, and we stand on our course and are soon out of 
sight. As soon as we arrive father reports this ship to 
the custom house, as is necessary. One day we sight- 
ed eight vessels and signaled them all but one, which 
passed us too far away to see the signals. At other 
times we would not sight a vessel for the entire voyage. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 101 



CHAPTER XIY. 

TWO WEEKS IN BASS STRAITS. 

After a long and prosperous voyage, with the excep- 
tion of the loss of one man, we entered Bass Straits. 
How welcome was the sight of land once more ; but if 
we entertained the idea that we were going to sail 
calmly through the straits in a few days, we were 
doomed to disappointment. With a good fair wind we 
ought to have made it in forty-eight hours or less, but 
we had light, baffling winds, followed by a strong head 
wind and sea, and were obliged to beat, making very 
little headway. 

This lasted two weeks and we were still in the straits 
and well-nigh discouraged. At least I was. Two days 
before we left the straits, we sighted a large barque just 
before sunset, apparently bound the same way as we 
were, as she, too, was beating. About dark we came 
near enough to signal her. We could see three ladies 
standing on the quarter-deck. 

Imagine our joy when we found it was the Mary E. 



102 DROPS OF SPRAY 

Russell, of, and from, New York, bound for Sydney. 
The captain hailed from Addison, Me., just sixteen miles 
from our own home, and was now accompanied by his 
wife, daughter, and a niece. His name was Nichols. 
We ran close enough to them to talk easily back and 
forth, and Capt. Nichols made a bet with father as to 
which vessel would reach port first. 

That night at eight bells, the wind shifted and with 
every stitch of canvas set, our vessel flew along like a 
thing endowed with life, sending the glittering spray in 
showers over the decks. The next morning father made 
the joyful announcement that, if the breeze held, we 
should be in Sydney by dark. On we flew past the 
green, smiling shores, with their white houses clustering 
here and there among the waving trees, with the bright 
sunshine shedding its radiance over all. 

How beautiful it looked to our tired eyes, which had 
rested on nothing but sky and water for more than three 
weary months. Our pilot was taken on board and we 
sailed triumphantly past the towering white cliffs that 
stand, like huge sentinels, on each side of that world- 
famous harbor, second to none in point of beauty and 
safety, unless, indeed, we except the harbor of Rio 
Janerio. 

After passing the cliffs, the wind fell and a tug was 
signaled, which was soon alongside, and we were towed 
briskly along, following the many turns and windings of 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 103 

that most beautiful bay, until, on making a final turn, 
the city of Sydney lay before us. It is situated on the 
side of a bluff, with rows of white houses rising in tiers 
one above the other, and scores'.'of ships nestled at its 
feet, while all around us flashed the blue waters of the 
bay in its setting of emerald green. With a rattle and 
a heavy splash down went the anchor, and the Illie 
swung easily at her moorings, and was soon surrounded 
by the usual crowd of venders' boats, laden with fresh 
meat, fruit, and vegetables. They were soon lightened 
of their load, however. 

How still it seemed after the roar and the rush of 
winds and wave, the rattle of ropes and cordage. How 
funny to be able to walk across the decks without hav- 
ing to balance one's self. Down in the cabin, all was 
silent. The swinging lamp hung motionless, and no 
sound broke the stillness except the loud tick, tick, of 
the clock, which was imperceptible at sea. 

There were many ships and steamers anchored near 
or lying at the numerous wharves; and, leaning over the 
railing, watching the animated scene and munching a 
delicious pear, I was as happy a girl as could be found 
anywhere. Near me, seated in a low deck-chair, sat 
mother with Sydney on her lap, while from the galley 
stole a delicious aroma, which foretold what our supper 
would be. 

The next day we hauled into the wharf and began 



104 DROPS OF SPRAY 

discharging cargo. The awnings were spread, the vessel 
cleaned, the decks made white as snow, being scrubbed 
down and holystoned every morning, long before we 
were astir. Every bit of brasswork was polished until 
it sparkled in the sun, and the sails were unbent and 
sent down from aloft. 

The next day who should be towed past us to the 
wharf just below, but our old friend, the Mary E. Russell ? 
So she was beaten, and badly, too, and father had won 
his bet. We waved our handkerchiefs as they went 
past. We subsequently called on them many times, and 
found them very pleasant people. Among the many 
pleasant friends we made in Sydney, there were none so 
well liked as Mr. Roberts and his wife. He was cashier 
of the big shipping firm to which our cargo was con- 
signed, and both he and his wife were English Colonials. 
They had one child, D'Arcy, about the age of our baby. 
They lived at Ashfield, one of the many beautiful sub- 
urbs of Sydney, situated about ten miles out and reached 
by train. Mr. Roberts came in to his business each 
morning and returned at night. 

Tramway cars run through the streets of Sydney just 
as the electrics do here, and they are extremely noisy 
and disagreeable. But regular lines of railway connect 
the principal places of Australia. The engines are like 
ours, although the cars are constructed in the English 
style, that is, divided into compartments or carriages as 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 105 

they call them there. Mrs. Roberts had a sister, Ella 
Kippax, who was just my age ; and a very quiet, lady- 
like girl she was too. She resided in Sydney and many 
a night did she spend on board with me. 

Some of the Australian people, although highly edu- 
cated, have a very vague idea of America. I have had 
them ask me if there were any very good schools in 
America, and if the country were as large as Australia. 
They supposed there were so many Indians parading the 
streets in warpaint and feathers, that we would be afraid 
to venture out of doors for fear of being scalped, and all 
such foolish things. 

I used to get really provoked sometimes, and would 
defend my native land with more warmth and vigor 
than the occasion called for. Ella and I had many a 
falling out over that very thing. She could not believe 
the many wonderful things that I would tell her of Amer- 
ica, and did not hesitate to tell me so when I waxed elo- 
quent. They could not realize the millions of people, 
the great and beautiful cities, the wonderful inventions 
and the high state of civilization existing in America. 
On the other hand, since my return, I have had just 
such absurd questions put to me by people whose com- 
mon sense should teach them better about Australia and 
its ways. 

One day I accompanied Mrs. Nichols and her partv to 
a suburb, called Botany Bay. Mother intended o- ino- 



106 DROPS OP SPRAY 

but company coming unexpectedly to spend the day 
kept her at home. We went in an observation car, and 
the scenery was something beautiful. But as we only 
went for a ride, we did not leave the car at all, which 
had been chartered especially for the occasion. Mother 
went on shore very little as our nurse and her husband 
had gone, and Sydney was teething and quite trouble- 
some. However, we went to all the points of interest in 
Sydney, visited its many beautiful public buildings, 
wandered through its cool, shady parks, and rode through 
a few of its suburbs. 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 101 



CHAPTER XV. 

THROUGH TORRES STRAITS. 

Our next destination was Surabaya, Java. Finding 
freights very dull in Sydney, we took in ballast and pro- 
ceeded on our way, thinking we might find something 
better. Nearly all of our merry darky crew had de- 
serted, along with the old boson, not because they were 
ill-treated, but because it seems to be a sailor's nature not 
to remain on one vessel long at a time. At every port 
some of the crew will surely desert, although they forfeit 
their wages and, in some rare instances, their clothes. 
We also had a new cook and his wife, a young Scotch, 
couple, who had their baby with them, a poor, weak, puny 
little mite, who picked up wonderfully in the invigorating. 
sea air. 

There were two ways to go to Surabaya. The shorter- 
way, by several hundred miles, lay through Torres Straits. 
These straits are very dangerous, so dangerous, in fact,, 
that no company will insure a vessel which makes the- 
attempt to sail through them. And its many rocks andi 



108 DROPS OF SPRAY 

treacherous, hidden coral reefs, as well as its frequent 
volcanic eruptions, do not constitute its greatest danger. 
Its shores and many islands are peopled with a very 
hideous race of savages, many of whom are cannibals ; so 
: should anything befall our vessel, our chances for life 
would be slim indeed. 

One thing favored us. It was a season of the year 
When the terrible hurricanes, which at certain seasons 
sweep through these islands, were unknown. After 
much anxious thought, father decided to push through 
the straits. We had a fair, steady wind, and the islands 
looked very fair and smiling, clothed in their luxuriant 
tropical verdure. Father deemed it best to anchor at 
night. At intervals during the day we espied a canoe of 
savages sailing along under their queer-shaped sail made 
from cocoanut fibres, but none came very near and the 
day wore on uneventfully. When night came we an- 
chored under the lee of a small island, where the water 
was as calm and quiet as if we lay in a landlocked har- 
bor and fathoms deep close in shore. A watch was set 
who kept a sharp lookout for marauders. It was two 
days before we emerged safely on the other side, and I 
think we all breathed freer. 

We had to pass through Sunda Strait before we 
reached Java, but at that time it was all clear and navi- 
gation was considered safe, but since then you have all 
read, doubtless, of that terrible earthquake in Java, where- 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 109 

by one whole city sank and more than fifty thousand peo- 
ple were drowned ; while in these very straits whole 
islands sank and others were thrown up in their places, 
as well as innumerable reefs, and so completely obstructed 
navigation through them. 

The scenery was grand. The islands are volcanic, and 
very mountainous. We passed many extinct volcanoes, 
whose immense craters yawned hideously. The shores 
were fringed with rich tropical foliage, the drooping ba- 
nana palm, the graceful date, the tall cocoanut tree rear- 
ing its smooth, round trunk many feet into the air, while 
at the top under a spreading bunch of foliage clustered its 
pale brown fruit. The spreading mango and the sweet. 
orange and lemon trees all mingled together in bewilder- 
ing splendor. 

Our first stop was at Bangiwangi, but we were there- 
only two days when we proceeded to Surabaya. There 
were more American vessels here than there were at: 
Sydney ; eight of them, all anchored near each other and 
slightly apart from the rest. There were more than 
sixty vessels of all nations in the harbor, all lying at. 
anchor. English ships predominated. We dropped an- 
chor among our little fleet of countrymen, and hardly had 
we come to a standstill when two of the captains came on 
board. One was Captain Allen of the barque Vilora EL 
Hopkins, a vessel built in Milbridge ; and the other Cap- 
tain Flynn of the barque Great Surgeon, hailing, from 



110 DROPS OF SPRAY 

Cape Cod. We were much pleased at meeting them. If 
there is anything that will arouse one's patriotism and 
make one welcome all countrymen, always providing they 
are respectable, it is to enter a foreign port and among 
so many strange vessels see the glorious Stars and Stripes 
floating from the masts of the few, and to be accorded a 
hearty welcome in the dear old native tongue. It matters 
not in what part of the United States is their home, 
they are Americans, and as such are welcome, whether 
they come from Maine or California. It is a strange 
thing, but the American vessels to be found in foreign 
waters are always a small minority among hundreds of 
other nationalities. 

Capt. Flynn informed us that he was accompanied by 
his wife and little son, Stanley, and he would bring them 
to call on us shortly. Capt. Allen said that business was 
extremely dull, and that he had been there five weeks 
without a single offer, and many others reported the same 
thing. We became very intimate with Mrs. Flynn and I 
spent one night on board her vessel, and several times she 
sent the boat for me when Stanley was dull and wanted 
me to amuse him. He was a dear little fellow of five 
years, and I became very much attached to him. 

A few rods back of us lay a large English ship, the 
"Devewn," commanded by Captain Patterson, with his 
family on board, consisting of his wife and two small 
children. We became acquainted with them, and mother 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. Ill 

and Mrs. Patterson, who were about the same age, be- 
came very fast friends. She was a fine-looking woman 
many years her husband's junior, tall and slender, with 
the grace and bearing of an empress, dark hair, lustrous 
dark eyes and with one of those transparent red and 
white complexions that one often sees among the English, 
Tbut rarely elsewhere. 

Capt. Patterson was a man of considerable wealth, 
who still followed the sea, out of pure love for it rather 
than for the money he could earn. He was chief owner 
of the Devewn, a splendid iron ship of fifteen hundred 
tons burden. The cabin was luxuriously appointed. A 
private steward waited on the captain and wife at table, 
on which a real china dinner service was used, delicate as 
sea-foam and each piece stamped with the ship's name ; 
and a solid silver service, while no hotel in England could 
boast of better fare. We took dinner with them once, 
and the softly carpeted saloon, the glittering side-board, 
the snowy table with its gleam of costly silver and glass, 
seemed more like a fairy bower than a room on a mer- 
chant ship. 

One evening, as a great favor, she showed us her rare 
collection of jewelry, and I never saw so many pretty 
things before ; that is, in the ownership of one person. 
They were .gathered from all parts of the world. She 
had one set of silver, so delicately traced it looked as if a 
breath might blow it away. She had diamonds and rubies 



112 DROPS OP SPRAY 

and emeralds and exquisite sets of rosy coral. Then 
the ball dress of satin and filmy lace, her graduating 
dress and the beautiful bridal dress of ivory satin, were 
all unfolded to our gaze. Capt. Patterson fairly wor- 
shipped his wife and could afford to gratify all her 
whims, which were many, as she was like a spoiled child. 
Father hired a sampan, as the native boats are 
called, and a crew of coolies while we were there, as our 
men could not work in the burning sun. The sampan 
came after him in the morning and brought him home at 
night. They are long and narrow and are painted very 
gaily in bright red and green. About midway of these 
boats is a wide, cushioned seat with a colored awning 
stretched over it where the passengers sit. One of the 
native boatmen sits behind with a steering paddle, and 
the other in front and rows with a pah' of wooden pad- 
dles that resemble nothing so much as wooden bread-spoons 
on a very large scale. All the captains employ these 
sampans in preference to using their own boats, as the 
charges are ridiculously cheap, being but a few cents a 
day. Lying lazily back in the cushioned seat, under the 
cool awning, all dressed in snowy linen, a white cork hat 
lined with cool green upon his head, the passenger can 
take solid comfort during the long row to the shore. 
The natives themselves go in for more comfort than ele- 
gance, seldom wearing anything more then a pair of dirty 
white trousers, reaching to their knees, and a queer hat, 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 113 

which looks for all the world like a huge toadstool. It is 
gaily painted and adorned with curious figures. Shirts 
are seldom seen among the natives, while the children 
are clothed in nature's garb alone. 

Every day venders' sampans visited the vessel, some 
laden with delicious fruit, and some with all sorts of 
curios, with now and then a cage of pretty, gray mar- 
mosets, a pair of brilliant parrots or showy cockatoos. 
They have a laughable way of trading. A boat never 
contained more than one native. This one would fill a 
large basket with his wares and walk deftly up the gang- 
way with it balanced on his head. Setting it down be-, 
fore us, he would retire a few steps, squat on his heels 
and gravely contemplate us. His basket contained many 
beautiful things in lacquer work and delicate silk fabrics. 
Having espied one that particularly took her fancy, 
mother would pick it up and inquire the price. An ex- 
travagant one is named. Mother shakes her head and 
names the amount she thinks the article is worth, a very 
modest sum. A look of horror crosses the man's face, 
as he picks up his basket and prepares to depart. 
Mother has been initiated into their ways, so says 
nothing, but stands her ground. Presently the man re- 
turns and offers the article at a much reduced price. 
No use. Mother remains firm. This much she will 
give and no more. Many times this is repeated, until 
finally he returns for the last time, takes up the article 



114 DROPS OF SPRAY 

in despair, thrusts it into her hands and takes what she 
first offered ; then, with a doleful sigh, sits complacently 
down on his heels again, well knowing that he has after 
all the best end of the bargain. With every article he 
sells, the same performance is gone over. 

It is needless to state that not much shopping can be 
done in a day, for on shore at the shops it is always the 
same. We bought many beautiful things of them, how- 
ever, one of the oddest being a lacquered writing desk, 
with a large gilt dragon on the top. I bought Annie a 
jewel case in the form of a large apple, for which I paid 
the modest sum of a quarter of a rupee, equal in value to 
ten cents. We never had to drive a bargain with the 
fruit vender, however, as for one cent you can buy a 
great bunch of delicious bananas, which, being left on 
the tree to ripen, have a flavor never found in the same 
fruit picked green and then allowed to ripen. 

All fruit is cheap in proportion, with the exception of 
the mangosteen. This fruit is very rare, even in Java, 
and is never exported. In size it is as large as a peach, 
with a thick, brown husk. This is cut in twain, reveal- 
ing the rich fruit beneath, golden yellow on the outer 
edge shading to a soft, delicate pink near the center. 
But the flavor is delicious, and cannot be described. I 
can only say, it tastes like no other fruit, nor does it re- 
semble any, but stands alone, queen of the fruit world. 
They cost a dollar a dozen in that land of cheap fruits. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 115 



CHAPTER XVI. 

SURABAYA — THE BURNING SHIP. 

Surabaya is a large city of sixty thousand inhabitants, 
the majority being Malays, while the aristocratic and 
wealthy portion are Dutch. Of course a few people of 
all nationalities are resident here, as in other places, but 
their numbers are small. The American consul's family 
consisted of his wife and three small children. Their 
names were Brigham. They had resided there four 
years, but the excessive heat was proving rather too 
much for Mrs. Brigham, who looked like a broken lily 
and intended returning home to New York very shortly. 
We received an invitation to dine with them on a certain 
day. It dawned a perfect morning. The waters of 
the bay shimmered rosily in the bright sunshine, and a 
-cool, gentle breeze just ruffled the tiny wavelets. We 
-started bright and early, clad in cool, thin dresses, as in 
the middle of the day the heat is intense, something 
terrible, and we wished to get on shore before the sun 
was up so high as to be unpleasant. After the shore it- 



116 DROPS OP SPRAY 

self is reached a canal more than half a mile long has 
to be traversed before you reach the landing leading to 
the consul's home. All the fresh water that is used on 
the vessels or in the city comes from this canal. Of 
course it is filtered, but after passing through that sink 
of filth we came to the conclusion that no purifying 
process ever invented would render that water fit to 
drink. At the canal the rower fastened a long tow-rope 
to his waist and leaped ashore. The other still used his 
steering oar at intervals. The canal is walled with stone, 
with stone steps every few rods. These steps swarmed 
with perfectly naked children, engaged in the delightful 
exercise of swimming, with their smooth, brown bodies 
glistening in the sunlight. At another flight a woman 
was doing the weekly washing, while just opposite, 
another was washing the rice for the family dinner in a 
huge tin pan. 

Their method of washing clothes is unique. They dip 
them in the water, souse them up and down a few times 
then whip them on to the stone steps and pound them 
briskly with a stick. They wash for the white people 
altogether, and for the immense vessels and steamers, 
and their clothes come out snowy white. They do not 
have to trouble themselves much concerning their own 
clothing, as they wear very little. A short calico skirt 
worn with a sleeveless waist constitutes the full dress 
costume. All the filth of the city is dumped into this- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 117 

canal. How would you enjoy drinking the water? I do 
not wonder that the dreaded cholera rages, as it gener- 
ally does in this climate. 

Finally our boat grated against the last flight of 
steps, overhung by an immense tamarind tree. Stepping 
ashore we walked slowly up the beautiful street. How 
quiet it seemed for a large city. The streets are not 
paved and are shaded by tamarind trees with their beau- 
tiful, delicate foliage and loads of fruit. There are no 
street cars gliding noisily along. Sometimes we could 
see a carriage whirling along behind its span of dimin- 
utive ponies, and natives everywhere hurrying along 
with their loads balanced on their heads, their bare feet 
falling on the unpaved street. 

A short walk brought us to the consul's residence, a 
large square structure, painted white with green blinds. 
A veranda ran around three sides of it, well shaded by 
trees. The cook-house and servants' quarters were in 
the rear, built entirely away from the house, which, in 
that hot climate, was a great advantage. Labor is very 
cheap, and the consul employed no less than twenty-five 
native servants of both sexes at a cost less than for two 
good servants here in America, and they gave perfect 
satisfaction. Inside it looked very cool and inviting. 
The rooms were all carpeted in snowy Indian matting 
and the furniture was all light willow or bamboo, while 
the draperies that shaded the windows were of snowy 



118 DEOPS OF SPRAT 

muslin and lace. No stuffed furniture or hot, heavy rugs- 
and draperies, but all airy, light and comfortable. 

Dinner, which is called tiffin there, is partaken of at 
two o'clock, and consists of all sorts of Java dishes, in 
which rice takes the most prominent place, served in its 
most inviting form. Many of the queer looking viands 
that were passed us, I do not know the name of, but 
they were very nice, notwithstanding. We spent a very 
pleasant day and returned by moonlight. Several times 
after we visited the shore in company with friends, 
sometimes calling on Mrs. Brigham, but oftener to wan- 
der through the cool, fragrant streets. When the dinner 
hour arrived we would join father and repair to a hotel, 
where we would partake of an excellent dinner. The 
afternoon was spent in shopping. We had a young 
darky on board about sixteen years of age, wnom father 
detailed to carry Sydney for us on these excursions. 

While in Sydney a friend of mine presented me with a 
fine large retriever named Carlo. He was a fine watchdog, 
and would allow nobody but the crew to set foot on 
board after dark. Carlo was death to all natives, but 
grew so savage in Java that we were obliged to keep him 
chained, as never a day passed without some native com- 
ing on board. I remember one occasion in particular, 
when the water tug was alongside replenishing our casks. 
Her captain and crew were Malays. The captain was 
quite an aristocratic Malay it is true, and was neatly 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 119 

dressed in white duck, with a white straw hat on his 
head, but still a Malay. Carlo was chained, but the mo- 
ment that man stepped his foot on board, with a frenzied ef- 
fort, the slender chain was snapped in two, and before any 
one could interfere, Carlo hurled himself upon him. Two of 
our men dragged the dog off, while the poor Malay, with 
a great piece torn from his leg, his trousers in shreds 
and himself badly frightened, limped aft. Fortunately, 
father was at home, and deftly bound up the injured 
member after cauterizing the wound. A small sum of 
money and a new pair of trousers presented to the man 
quickly soothed his ruffled feelings, and he retreated to 
his boat. 

The tide runs like a mill-race here in the bay, and 
boats have to be moored with two and sometimes three 
anchors, to ride in safety. 

One morning we were aroused very early by a cry of 
"Fire !" Hastily dressing, we rushed upon deck. Riding 
at anchor, some distance ahead of us, at the extreme 
outer edge of the harbor, was a large German barque 
sugar-laden. She was all ready for sea and was to have 
sailed that day, having been towed out to that position 
the night before. From amidships rolled a dense 
volume of thick, black smoke. Not a soul was on board. 
She must have been deliberately set on fire and deserted 
but for what reason no one ever knew. The tide was 
running very strongly right towards the crowded harbor. 



120 DROPS OP SPRAY 

It is an awe-inspiring sight to watch a burning vessel, 
even when one is safe in port, in one's own vessel. 
Swiftly burned the doomed vessel. The fire had gained 
too much headway when first discovered to be checked, 
so nothing could be done. Now her masts go over the 
side with a dull crash, sending up a cloud of steam as 
they strike the water. Now the capstan has burned 
away, and what was feared has come to pass. The ves- 
sel is one mass of fiery flames from stem to stern, and 
drifts slowly down toward that mass of shipping, a men, 
ace to all with which it may come in contact. And now 
many boats put off to her, more out of curiosity than 
anything else. Mother expresses a desire to go, and we 
are soon seated in the boat rowing swiftly towards her. 
Ah! Now she catches in the bow-chains of a large 
three master, and swings broadside on against her. She 
is gotten off with great difficulty, and leaves several fiery 
little tongues of flame running through the rigging of 
the big ship, which are extinguished, however, without 
much injury. 

Three times does she drift afoul of other vessels 
without seriously damaging them. A miracle, surely, as 
her way lay through the thickest of them. And now 
the fire has reached the cabin, while boats of all descrip- 
tions swarm thickly around her. Next comes a dull, 
heavy report, followed quickly by another and yet 
another, sending clouds of fiery sparks high in the air, 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 121 

and scattering bits of burning wood in all directions, 
There was powder in the cabin, but it did not accomplish 
its object of blowing up the vessel, if that was the ob- 
ject, for she still floats. Quickly the boats, gathered so 
thickly around her, disperse, and she continues to drift 
on alone until she brings up on a sand-bar, at the extreme 
outer edge of the harbor, where she soon burns to the 
water's edge. 

We found that a falling spark had burned a small hole 
in Sydney's white hat, although we were on the outer 
edge of the boats. We now began to think of breakfast, 
but as our way lay past the Devewn on our course home, 
we called just a moment. The burning derelict just 
cleared the Devewn, by a hair's breadth, and we found 
that the fright completely prostrated Mrs. Patterson 
who was very nervous. After expressing hopes that she 
would soon recover from the shock, we proceeded to our 
own vessel. 



122 DROPS OF SPEAY 



CHAPTER XVII. 

TAGAL — LOADING SUGAR. 

I must relate an amusing incident that occurred while 
at Surabaya. We had a fancy load of poultry, which 
father purchased there, and for which an exorbitant 
price was paid ; but as the hens were all good layers, we 
had at least the luxury of plenty of fresh eggs. The 
rooster was very handsome with long, drooping tail 
feathers of golden bronze. On day he perched himself 
on the rail, presumably to crow, overbalanced himself 
and over he went. Now I thought too much of that 
rooster to stand calmly by and see him drown, so 
I ordered the men to get him. A noose was quickly 
made in a rope, in which the little darky John sat, and 
was lowered over the stern. Just as the rooster went 
sailing by John made a grab for him, but the noose 
slipped up about his neck, nearly choking the poor 
fellow, and causing roars of laughter from the sail- 
ors on deck. He missed the rooster, however, and 
was drawn to the deck sputtering and swearing. Two 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 12& 

of the men now jumped into the boat which trailed 
astern and gave chase for the cause of all this trouble, 
which was now far astern with only his head above the 
water. When they brought him on board he was a very 
sorry looking bird indeed, with his tail-feathers uncurled 
and his bravado completely soaked out of him. 

The hot days quickly flew by. There are no twi- 
lights in the tropics ; but when the sun sets, unless there- 
is a moon, darkness intense settles as swiftly down as if 
light were extinguished. The night is like a heavy 
pall. But the glorious moon never seems to shine so 
radiantly elsewhere as in the tropics, nor the stars to be- 
so large and bright. 

Five weeks went by, and then father received orders- 
to proceed to Tagal, Java, and there load with sugar for 
Sydney again. The day before we sailed, the mail 
steamer arrived, bringing us a letter from Annie. She 
was still attending school and doing well. We all 
wrote to her in reply, father inclosing a hundred dollar 
check, and mailed the letter in Surabaya. I was very 
glad at the prospect of seeing my friends in Sydney onca 
again. 

Tagal was a very small town, and we would probably 
be there six weeks at least. When Mrs. Flynn came on 
board to bid us farewell, Stanley brought me two kittens ; 
as a keepsake. One was maltese, the other black. 
Poor little fellow. He cried very bitterly at parting,, 



124 DROPS OP SPRAY 

and I knew that in giving me his pets, he had given his 
dearest possession, and I appreciated the gift accord- 
ingly. 

The day fixed for sailing arrived. All the vessels in 
our little fleet, as we called it, had their flags flying and 
dipped them gracefully as we sailed past, while Mrs. 
Patterson and the children accompanied us some dis- 
tance out to sea, returning in the pilot boat. As every- 
body was busy I undertook to respond to the many friends 
who were dipping their flags to us, while ours up to this 
time remained stationary, but the ropes getting hope- 
lessly entangled, I was obliged to call on father to as- 
sist me. He dipped the flag slowly three times, bring- 
ing it to the rail each time, with the remark that that 
would have to answer for them all, as he was too busy 
•to bother. We had left many pleasant friends behind 
us, and it was with tear-dimmed eyes that I saw them 
slowly fade from sight. Presently the pilot boat left us, 
and we were once more alone on the heaving ocean, 
with Surabaya a dim, blue outline, miles astern. 1 
was half glad, too, as I looked off on the blue spark- 
ling sea and felt the cool breeze fanning my hot cheek. 

Two days before we reached Tagal we were becalmed. 
It grew suffocatingly hot as the wind died away. The 
glassy surface of the ocean reflected the black hull and 
snowy canvas of our vessel, while far off to our left 
could be seen the low- lying land, fringed with cocoa- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 125 

nut trees, rising dim and blue above the bluer sea, while 
the fierce tropical sun beat down upon us unmercifully .- 
After sweating and fuming the best part of the day./, 
father conceived the brilliant idea of taking a swim, the? 
water looked so cool and inviting. In vain mother be- 
sought him to give up the idea, in view of the danger 
from sharks. We had not seen any, however, since 
leaving port, and father pooh-poohed the idea of their be- 
ing any within miles of us. Accordingly he went be- 
low, and soon reappeared, garbed in his bathing suit. 
Then, mounting the railing, he dove down, down, down, 
into the blue waters beneath, and as the sea closed over 
him, a great wave of utter desolation seemed to sweep 
through me. Mother stood at my side with Sydney in 
her arms, and gazed at the spot where he had dissap- 
peared, with a face as white as death. That it was the 
height of folly, as well as danger, we knew perfectly well. 
After what seemed hours, but in reality were only a few 
seconds, father came to the surface some distance from 
the vessel towards which he struck out vigorously, his 
face beaming with smiles. 

"For the love of heaven, James !" mother said plead- 
ingly, "I beg of you not to dive again, I am so afraid of 
sharks." 

Father readily gave the desired promise, and then 
asked her to come in with him, the water was so delight- 
fully cool. After much persuasion, mother also donned 



126 DROPS OF SPRAY 

a bathing suit. The side ladder was placed over the 
rail, and a rope fastened around her waist and tied to 
the railing, as she could not swim. Very pretty and 
graceful she looked in her short bathing suit, her bright 
hair unbound and floating over her shoulders. She en- 
joyed her swim very much, and came back on deck 
much refreshed. 

Hardly did they stand safely on deck when we espied 
two immense man-eating sharks circling slowly around 
the vessel, their dorsal fins cutting the water smoothly. 
If father and mother had lingered in the water a mo- 
ment longer, what would have been their fate ? Surely 
a kind providence ever watches over us. 

A gentle breeze soon ruffled the water into tiny 
wavelets, and we slowly gathered headway and glided 
along merrily. Two days after, we arrived in Tagal 
and anchored in the roadstead, some distance from the 
shore. This town is also reached by a canal, but a 
short one. 

Shortly after our arrival we threw out the ballast of 
rocks and dirt, and began taking in sugar. It was 
brought from shore in lighters and father was obliged 
to hire a native crew to stow the cargo, as none of our 
men could stand the fearful heat of the hold. All the 
natives live on is rice, and a small, sun-dried fish, cut 
in strips and eaten with the rice, as a relish. It does 
not cost much to keep them. Our cook used to boil the 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 127 

rice in a big kettle. When noon came it was placed in 
a huge pan and placed on the main hatch. The natives 
would then squat comfortably on their heels in a circle 
around it, and all eat out of the same dish with their 
fingers. They used neither knives, forks, or spoons. 
The fish they brought with them. It is is marvelous, 
how they do the amount of work that they can do on 
such a slender diet, unvaried from day to day. 

Both sexes of the natives of Java chew the betel nut, 
which they mix with quick -lime, and which they esteem 
a great luxury. It stains their lips and teeth a deep, 
yellowish red, and looks very repulsive. After they 
have eaten their dinner they slip the betel nut in their 
mouths. Then, with a tiny wooden scoop they mix 
quick-lime with the nut, and place the whole wad under 
the lower lip. They all smoke — both sexes, old and 
young. Their ears are hung with all sorts of ornaments, 
and by inserting larger and larger articles into the lobes 
of their ears, you would hardly believe how enormously 
large they can finally stretch them. 

Matches in Java come in round tin boxes as large 
as a silver dollar, and it is a common sight to see a 
native with a pipe stuck through one ear and a box of 
matches through the other. As for the rest they are a 
lazy, dirty race of people, alive with vermin. After see- 
ing them load sugar I suddenly lost my appetite for it. 
Of course it is in its crude state and in color a light 



128 DROPS OF SPRAY 

brown. It is packed in huge crates, six feet high, some- 
thing like the crates tea is packed in, only much larger. 
Sometimes in hoisting one on board it would burst, and 
its contents scatter themselves over the deck. Now 
what is to be done ? Is all that sugar wasted ? Not 
much. Wait and you will see. There are several empty 
crates lying round ready for just such accidents as 
this. A native seizes one and commences scooping up 
the loose sugar in his hat, which he has snatched off his 
head for this purpose. A companion jumps into the 
crate, and with his naked feet firmly stamps the sugar 
down as it is dumped in until the crate is full. It is 
then fastened and lowered into the hold. 

The water here is so poor and tastes so bad that 
father forbade us drinking any unless first mixing it 
with either claret or tamarind water. I liked it at first, 
but soon grew heartily sick of it and longed for a cool, 
sparkling drink of plain water, which was not to be ob- 
tained. 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 129 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



THE DREADED CHOLERA. 



Cholera was raging here to some extent, but still not 
alarmingly. One of our men was taken dangerously ill 
one night with the fearful scourge. He had been work- 
ing in the hot sun nearly all day, and had drunk quanti- 
ties of water, two things which father had strictly for- 
bidden. This was the result of the man's defiance of the 
orders. He came very near dying, but by dint of the 
hardest exertions on father's part, who stood over him 
the entire night, by morning he was out of danger 
though still very weak. 

We did not go on shore much while here and made 
no friends whatever. Father hired a sampan here, as 
in Surabaya. One day we went on shore and took a 
ride. It was Sunday. I shall always remember that 
ride. Carriages, and also horses, are extremely scarce 
there and very unlike anything we have in America. 
There were two or three teams to be let, however, and 
out of them father selected the best-looking one, if there 



130 DROPS OF SPRAY 

could be any choice. It was a ponderous, four-wheeled 
coach with two seats facing each other, something simi- 
lar to the old-fashioned stage coaches used away back in 
the forties. One native, clad only in a bright red calico 
shirt reaching to his knees, and a native hat upon his 
head, sat upon the box in front and drove, while anoth- 
er, similarly clad, rode behind, a la footman. I failed 
to see the use of this second one, unless it were for an 
ornament, but my mind was soon enlightened. Our 
steeds were a very small pair of roan ponies, and in- 
stead of reins a rope was fastened to one side of each 
pony's head. The roads are smooth and sandy. 

We started with the ponies on a dead run, making the 
old coach swing like a ship at sea. After running a 
short distance, they stopped so suddenly as to almost 
throw us from the seats. Here is where the services of 
the out-rider come in play. Jumping off, he runs for- 
ward and vigorously applies a stout stick to the flanks 
of our motionless steeds, at the same time shouting a 
few words in Malay. Presently they start with a back- 
breaking jerk on the full gallop, but the out-rider still 
runs beside them with ease, applying his whip incessant- 
ly, for some distance, when he again hops on behind to 
rest. This is repeated many times during our drive, 
and is very laughable. 

The surrounding country is beautiful. The road is 
shaded on either side by the graceful, spreading tama- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 131 

rind tree, loaded with its pods of delicate brown fruit. 
Occasionally we pass an opening of well-cleared land. 
On one side stretched acres of sugar-cane ; on the other 
a coffee plantation. Farther on we pass an imposing 
white structure, residence of the wealthy Dutch planter 
to whom those vast acres belong. There are many such 
plantations all through Java — owned mostly by the 
Dutch, but operated by the unfortunate natives to whom 
this land rightfully belongs. The Dutch are often very 
-eruel to the blacks ; and shortly after we left there was 
a general uprising among them which resulted in the 
massacre of several of their pompous masters. But it 
was suppressed before the natives had fully accomplished 
their object, namely, to completely annihilate the whites. 

However, we enjoyed our peculiar ride immensely, but 
when father inquired how much was the bill, our driver 
iheld up ten fingers 

Ten rupees for a ten hours' ride ? Preposterous ! 
Father gave him five, and we turned away with his 
lamentations stil ringing in our ears. 

It was very dull, and the intense heat made any kind 
of work unbearable. We spent our time in reading and 
sitting on deck under the awning, watching the men 
load. 

Sydney did not seem to mind the heat much, and every 
night and morning mother would fill the big bath tub 
nearly full of cool, salt water and put him into it. The 



132 DROPS OF SPRAY 

way he would make the water fly with his tiny fat hands"- 
and feet, laughing and crowing delightedly all the while, 
would do your heart good to see. 

We used to catch a lot of fish here. Father kept the- 
lines trolling from the stern, and rarely a day passed 1 - 
without our hooking a fish. I do not know the name of 
them, but they were very nice,with flesh white and sweet. 
They were about the size of a large cod. One day about 
noon I stood near the railing with my eyes fixed ab- 
stractedly on the line, but with my thoughts far away 
across the fathomless ocean with my sister. The line 
was quivering, now pulled this way, now that. Father 
had just returned, and stepping to the companion-way, I 
called : 

"There is something on the line, father." 
He came on deck at once, and when he pulled in the 
line there was the queerest looking fish on it I ever 
saw. We did not know what it was then, nor did any of 
the crew. It was about six feet in length and looked 
somewhat like an eel, only its color was much darker on 
the back, and spotted, while its belly was white. Father 
told the cook to prepare it for supper, but to take the pre- 
caution of cooking a piece of silver with it. If poisonous 
the silver would turn black. Well, the silver came out 
as bright and clear as could be, so we ate the fish and 
found it delicious. Since then I have learned that it was 
a garfish and extremely rare. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 133 

One day we took the boat and visited a small island 
in the vicinity, carrying our dinner, intending to spend a 
nice, quiet day under the trees. But the inosquitos and 
black flies had got there first and meant to stay, so we 
were obliged to beat an ignominious retreat, reaching 
the boat flushed and breathless. Why, the mosquitoes 
were something terrible. 

On the way back, father trolled for fish and brought 
up a small devil fish about the size of a dinner plate. 
Mother and I screamed and even father shrank from 
taking it off the hook. They are quite the most hideous, 
as well as the most repulsive, fish that inhabit the sea, 
and are rightly named. They sometimes grow to a 
great size and are then a constant menace to divers. 

The waters here are alive with the beautiful jelly fish 
the majority of them being of a pale greenish tinge, but 
some are of the most brilliant hues. Sometimes when 
at sea we would catch sight of the wonderful Portugese 
men-of-war, as the sailors call them, a species of jelly 
fish, but they are never met with in port nor even at sea 
when it is calm. When the ship is sailing along with a 
good breeze, they are sometimes seen sailing along with 
their tiny sail, which is a sort of membrane, spread to the 
breeze, but at the approach of a storm they furl the sail 
and sink quietly down to the bottom, there to remain 
until the storm is over. These wonderful little marine 
creatures are of the most brilliant hues. They are very 



134 DEOPS OF SPEAY 

rare, and the sailors believe that their appearance brings 
good luck. I never saw but three in all my sea-going 
experience. One was pink and green, one red and white 
and the other blue and red, and all wondrously beautiful, 

I was very glad to get away from Tagal. It was so 
hot that I felt tired all the time, and was glad to breathe 
the free, pure air of the ocean once more. We were 
obliged to put into Batavia for a day or two, as father 
had business there. The dreaded cholera was raging 
fearfully in the town, so we did not go on shore as I 
would have liked. Batavia is a large city and said to be 
a very pretty one as well. It certainly presented a 
very attractive appearance, as seen from the harbor, 
with its clusters of white houses embowered in waving 
green trees. 

We came very near losing our vessel in Simda 
Straits on our return trip. We had been sailing along 
with a fresh, fair wind all day, but near sunset the wind 
died away very suddenly, as it often does in the Tropics, 
leaving us about two miles from a rocky, precipitous 
island, towards which a heavy swell was setting, with us 
perfectly helpless and at its mercy. To anchor was an 
utter impossibility, as the water was many fathoms deep 
close in shore. 

It was an awful moment. We watched with a grim 
fascination the smooth, green, oily rollers chasing each 
other toward the shore, where they would break in thun- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 1 35 

der on the rocks, sending the spray forty feet into the 
air. Slowly but surely we were drifting to our doom, 
while the men, with white, set faces, waited in almost 
breathless silence. It seemed as if nothing short of a 
miracle could save us. Here we were in the straits with 
not a ship in sight, not a breath of wind stirring the 
water, too deep to anchor, with a strong tide setting us 
us toward those fearful rocks, among which no boat 
could live an instant ; and if we did go ashore, no brave 
life-saving crew were there to risk their lives to save ours. 
If human beings there were among these lonely islands, 
they were but savages. Far better to meet death in the 
quiet waters than to fall into their hands. 

Nearer we drifted — nearer — nearer — and now we can 
see every rock and tree stand out on shore with startling 
distinctness. 

Think you there is no God ? Some people claim there 
is not. But wait — a puff of wind steals across the water 
and fills the drooping sails. At last the breeze has been 
sent to save us by an ever watchful Providence, who even 
"holds the waters in the hollow of His hand." The 
breeze freshens and strengthens and, gathering headway, 
the gallant vessel forges ahead and the treacherous rocks 
are left behind, while we continue on our way with 
thankful hearts. A rod further and we would have been 
caught in the terrible undertow, from which nothing 
could have saved us. 



136 DROPS OF SPRAY 



CHAPTER XIX. 

A CYCLONE — CARLO RUNS MAD. 

About a week later, we were all sitting on deck one 
sultry evening enjoying what air we could get. Long be- 
fore the sun had sunk to rest beneath the glassy ocean. 
Above, the soft, purple sky was spangled with stars, which 
glittered and shone with a brilliancy found only in the 
Tropics, their light reflected in the mirror-like surface. 
Not a ripple of wind stirred the sails, which flapped idly 
against the masts, as 'the vessel rolled in the heaving 
swell with a long, lazy motion. My parents carried on 
a low conversation, until at last mother's fresh young 
voice rose on the silent air in that beautiful song, "We 
are drifting on Life's Ocean." 

"Drifting, drifting with the tide, 
Not one ray of light to guide us 
On we're drifting, ocean-bound." 

I lay back in my chair listening with keen enjoyment, 
as I am passionately fond of music, and mother pos- 
sessed a clear, sweet voice. Scarcelv had the last note 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 137 

died away when there came a long, mourning sigh over 
the silent ocean, followed by a short, sharp puff of wind, 
then silence, awful, death-like, while the stars disap- 
peared as though a black curtain had been suddenly 
drawn over them. 

Another, and a louder puff — 

"All hands to take in sail !" father shouts, springing 
to the wheel, while the man flies to help the rest. 

"Furl the royals, clew up the top-gallant sails, down 
with the main-sail ! Lively, now, my lads, lively !" And 
the sailors run up the rigging with monkey-like rapidity, 
and lie out on the yards, even the cook rushing out of 
the galley with his apron still on, and working with the 
rest. 

In a minute all is confusion. Mother and I hastily 
retreat to the companion-way. The puffs of wind grow 
stronger and more frequent. Far off to the left, the 
water is churned into an immense wall of heaving bil- 
lows and flying foam, its approach heralded by a dull 
roar, growing louder and louder. 

And now the gale is on us. With a shriek like ten 
thousand demons it strikes the Illie fair amidships, and 
a roaring, boiling caldron of foam surrounds us. Over 
the vessel goes, over — over — until for a minute she lies 
fairly on her beam-ends ; then, righting a little, speeds 
swiftly away like a frightened bird, while the huge seas 
sweep over her in rapid succession and the rain falls in 



138 DROPS OF SPRAY 

torrents. The decks are still at a frightful angle, but 
the sails are all in and she is scudding under bare poles. 
The fury of the tempest is soon spent, leaving us. 
however, with a good stiff breeze, while the air, lately 
so oppressive, is delightfully cool and fresh. 

Shortly after our departure from Tagal, two of our 
men who had joined the Illie in Surabaya, became very 
ill with what is called Java fever. It is a dangerous, 
often fatal disease, but not contagious in the least de- 
gree. It transpired that both of these men came direct- 
ly from the jail, where they had been serving long 
months for mutiny, to our vessel. Probably the hot 
climate and confinement brought on the fever. They 
were both Germans, and it was evident from the first 
that the elder, who was about forty, could not live. He 
would tell father neither his surname, nor where he be- 
longed and did not seem to care whether he lived or 
died. Father, however, attended him faithfully, but he 
grew worse each day. 

One morning, as we were eating breakfast, we heard a 
sound forward that almost froze the blood in our veins. 
It was the peculiar cry of a dog suffering with the 
rabies, which, once heard, is never forgotten. A mad 
dog at large on the narrow limits of a vessel's deck is an 
object of great terror. 

We ran to look out of the cabin window. Carlo was 
standing on the main hatch with foam-covered jaws 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 139 

and blood-shot eyes, giving rent to blood-curdling 
shrieks and howls. The sailors had all taken refuge on 
the top of the forecastle, and one held a loaded revolver 
aimed at the dog. Even the man at the wheel had de- 
serted his post and sprung into the rigging, making the 
vessel yaw widely. 

Father seized his Winchester and hurried on deck 
just as the sailor on the forecastle fired. Carlo was 
hit, and we saw the crimson fluid staining his white, 
shaggy breast, but he was not mortally hurt. Then 
father levelled his rifle and fired. Poor Carlo sprang 
high in the air and fell lifeless on the deck, shot through 
the heart. Two men came down and, raising him, 
tossed him overboard. I felt very badly, for he was a. 
noble fellow, and no better watch-dog ever stepped, 
than he. 

The day before our arrival in Sydney, father's patient: 
died. It was about two o'clock in the afternoon and we; 
were trying to make the harbor by beating, with a strong: 
head wind and a cross-sea against us, and every indica- 
tion that we should not see port that night. Father 
hated to bury the man at sea, since our destination was 
so near. But, as the weather was very hot, to keep the 
body any length of time would be dangerous to all on 
board. Accordingly it was sewn up in a long canvas bag 
with weights placed at the feet. It was then brought on 
deck, placed on a rude bier and covered with the Amer- 



140 DROPS OF SPRAY 

ican flag. Father thought the wind, which was shifting, 
might possibly veer round favorably, in which case we 
should reach port sometime that night. He would keep 
the remains as long as possible. Sure enough, by four 
o'clock the wind suddenly changed in our favor and we 
were soon speeding away with every stitch of canvas 
spread to the breeze, and rapidly approaching the harbor. 

With all haste a plain pine coffin was constructed and 
neatly lined with sheeting. Mother had several yards of 
fine white linen, out of which she fashioned a burial robe 
for the unfortunate sailor. 

Just before dark we signaled for a pilot, who came 
quickly alongside. Father informed him that we had a 
dead man on board and another quite ill. The pilot re- 
plied that in that case we could not be allowed to pro- 
ceed, but he could carry us as far as the quarantine 
grounds. In vain did father assure him that the disease 
was not contagious. Orders were very strict, and he 
must obey them. As for its being contagious, — with a 
shrug of his shoulders — the health officers must deter- 
mine that]; as for him, he could only do his duty. As we 
had been out sixty days already, this was very unpleasant 
news indeed. 

Long before we came to anchor I retired, and when I 
awoke the next morning, the sun was shining brightly 
into my little stateroom, and all was silent. Hastily 
dressing, I ran on deck. We were anchored a short dis- 



PEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 141 

tance from the two tall cliffs which mark the entrance to 
the harbor, in a deep cove. Close by lay the grim, black 
hospital ship. There were no others. » Shortly after" 
breakfast the doctor of this ship came on board. He 
went forward and, taking off the coffin lid, made a thor- 
ough examination of the corpse. He pronounced every- 
thing all right, and gave permission to have it buried at 
once. He then prescribed for our other patient, and 
returned. Father then read a short service over the re- 
mains, when they were lowered carefully into the boat. 
Two of the men took their places at the oars, while 
father steered. Slowly they proceeded to the shore,, 
where the dead man was to be buried in the quarantine- 
burial ground, situated on the side of one of the tall cliff 8* 
We had a signal flying for a tug and hardly was the 
boat out of sight when one came alongside. The anchor 
was hove up to the cat-head, and everything made ready 
to proceed as soon as father returned. Suddenly we 
espy a small tug coming rapidly from the harbor. She 
has her colors flying and we can see she belongs to the 
government. She runs alongside of the hospital ship 
and then makes for us. Two important-looking officers 
clamber up the side-ladder, order away our tug, hoist 
the yellow flag to our mizzen and inform the astonished 
mate that we are under quarantine, but for twenty-four 
hours only, at the end of which we will be allowed to 
proceed. This is to give a chance to fumigate the ves^- 



142 DROP OF SPRAY 

sel thoroughly, which they then proceed to do with a 
great show of display, after which they take their de- 
parture. 

Father soon returned, much surprised and very indig- 
nant. It would cost him a pretty penny to have the tug 
come after him twice. The next day dawned fair and 
hright. Our patient was now able to sit on deck, though 
still pale and weak. About four o'clock our tug re- 
turned and we were soon steaming swiftly up the bay 
at last, very glad to get away from the dismal quarantine 
ground. We were towed directly to the wharf of the 
sugar refinery. A narrow path on one side of the 
wharf led to a steep bluff, which rose hundreds of feet 
in the air. At its foot was a large quarry. Several 
times I went on shore and walked up the steep cliff. 
Sometimes I would lie down and creep on my hands and 
knees until I could see over the edge of the fearful 
precipice. The men far below looked like flies crawling 
along. I never cared to look longer than a minute, and 
even then it made me dizzy. But the grass was so 
beautifully soft and green, spangled here and there with 
lovely wild flowers, that mother used often to allow me 
to take Sydney there to play. 

It was, indeed, a beautiful spot and afforded an ex- 
cellent view of the city as well as of the harbor. 
"We also made several trips to Ashfield to call on our 
old friend, Mrs. Roberts, It was now within a few days 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. . 143 

of Christinas, and the weather was warm and delightful. 
In Australia the hottest months in the year are Janu- 
ary, February and March ; the coolest, July, August and 
September. I say coolest, for it is rarely cold. Ice 
sometimes forms thinly, but it was never known to 
snow in Sydney, although once, many years ago, a 
slight snow storm passed over Melbourne. We have 
been there at both seasons, and sometimes in January 
the burning winds sweeping in from the interior, would 
be scorching, suffocating, and something to be dreaded. 

I did not expect many Christmas gifts, but father pre- 
sented me with a beautiful locket and chain and from 
mother I received a fine scrap-book and a gold pin. 
Father's gift to mother was an elegant gold watch and 
chain. Little Sydney, too, had a large variety of pretty 
toys. I volunteered to care for Sydney while my par- 
ents visited some of the many beautiful spots in and 
around Sydney. 

The day following Christmas is called "Boxing Day," 
and is a great holiday. There was to be a grand ex- 
cursion to Victoria Island, a large island ten miles or so 
down the bay, a noted resort having a large pavilion 
and dining hall and extensive grounds, fitted with de- 
lightful swings, a merry-go-round and cricket field. My 
parents did not care to go, but Ella Kippax was going 
with her aunt and uncle and I received an invitation, 
which I was allowed to accept. 



144 DROPS OF SPRAY 

Two large steamers, the Queen Victoria and the 
Bonny Princess, were chartered for the occasion. Each 
had a fine brass band on board. Very handsome the 
steamers looked decked in their many flags and stream- 
ers, as we drove down to the wharf and took our places 
on the crowded deck of the Bonny Princess. The band 
struck up the national air, "God Save the Queen," the 
moorings were cast over, the wheels began to revolve, 
and we moved slowly from the wharf amid the cheers of 
those left behind. 

It was a perfect day, with a soft, cool breeze temper- 
ing the heat. The blue waters of the bay danced and 
sparkled in the bright sunshine, and a broad wake of 
snowy foam fell away on either side as the steamer 
glided onward. I thoroughly enjoyed the trip, with the 
band discoursing lively music all the way. There was a 
great crowd on the island when every one had disem- 
barked. We watched the lively cricket match between 
the celebrated teams, which was one of the features of 
the day, with great interest. We swung in the delight- 
ful swings, and sipped lemonade and ate sweetmeats, 
and had a good time generally. It was a well-ordered 
crowd, and I saw only one man who was under the in- 
fluence of liquor. 

One evening I went with some young friends to a 
magic-lantern display in a chapel, which exceeded any- 
thing of its kind I had ever seen. At its close the face 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 145 

of their beloved Queen was thrown upon the canvas 
while the audience rose en masse, and all joined in sing- 
ing their national song, "God Save the Queen," with an 
enthusiasm rarely seen in America. A play was then 
running at the principal theatre, "Aladdin, and his Won- 
derful Lamp." It was said to be something magnifi- 
cent, and nightly the great house was packed to its 
doors. We were to sail in a day or two, and were very 
anxious to see it. Two nights running we went to the 
theatre only to be confronted by the sign, "Standing 
room only," and were obliged to turn away disappointed. 

We were only going a short distance along the coast 
to Brisbane to take in ballast. A large coal steamer 
was to depart in a few days, bound for the same place. 
Father hired the captain to take us in tow, as the dis- 
tance in that way could be made in twenty-four 
hours, which would ordinarily take us a week. We did 
not know just when he would start, but knew it would 
be in a few days. We made one more attempt to see 
the play. 

When we returned we found the coal steamer already 
alongside with steam up, waiting impatiently for father. 
When I opened my eyes the next morning, we were well 
on our way, and Sydney lay, a faint blue line, miles 
astern. There was a stiff breeze blowing which kicked 
up a nasty sea, and our vessel, being light, rolled fear- 
fully. On leaving the shelter of the bay the steamer 



146 DROPS OP SPRAY 

had taken our tow-line and gone ahead, with a dis- 
tance between us of nearly a quarter of a mile. The 
stout hawser strained fearfully, but it held, and we 
reached Brisbane in safety. 



PEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 147 



CHAPTER XX. 

OUR ARRIVAL IN NEWCASTLE. 

We would be detained in Brisbane only a short time 
-taking in ballast, when we were to proceed to Newcastle, 
N. S. W., to load with coal for Manilla, Philippine Is- 
lands. 

Father had business in Sydney, which he must needs 
attend to in person. To my great delight we were to 
accompany him. We took passage on the Windemere, 
a small passenger steamer. She was crowded and had, 
moreover, very inferior accommodations, there being 
only two small cabins, one for the ladies and one for the 
gentlemen. Actually, there were more passengers than 
there was room to put them. Not only did we have to 
share our berths with others, but mattresses were placed 
on the floor, and covered every available spot. It was 
impossible to step unless one stepped over some one. I 
occupied a berth with a young English girl. 

The cabin was badly ventilated and was stiflingly hot, 
:and as soon as we got outside the steamer began to roll 



148 DROPS OF SPRAY 

and pitch and its occupants all became seasick. My 
berth mate was alarmingly ill. Twice she fainted and 
was restored with difficulty. I summoned the stew- 
ardess, who worked over her nearly all night. I spent a 
most wretched night myself and did not close my eyes. 
I was never so heartily glad to see daylight in my life- 
Mother spent as miserable a night as I did, and long be- 
fore the sun rose we dressed and went on deck, where 
we breathed in great draughts of the delicious briny air- 
which sent the color into our cheeks and put new 
life into our weary frames. 

As we sailed up the harbor we saw a sad-looking - 
sight. An immense ocean steamship lay there sub- 
merged, with only the masts, smoke-stack and flagstaff 
showing above the water. Later on we learned the fulL 
particulars, which I will here relate. 

She was the Australasia, plying between Sydney andi 
Liverpool, carrying only passengers and mail ; in fact, a> 
veritable floating palace. She was fifty-five hundred', 
tons register, was light and having some repairing done.. 
Immense port-holes close to the water's edge had beem 
open all day and the officer in charge neglected to have 
them closed when night fell ; criminal carelessness oil' 
his part, as after events proved. Although this ship- 
had air-tight compartments of steel, the doors of these 
were also open, else the awful accident would not. haves 
happened. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 149 

On this particular night the captain and nearly all of 
the crew were on shore, the rest sleeping quietly in 
their berths, excepting the solitary watchman on deck. 
Midnight approaches. A stiff breeze has spung up and 
the lapping of the water against the ship's side is the 
^nly sound that breaks the silence. A stronger puff of 
wind, and the huge monster lists heavily to port. Over 
-she goes until the cruel waters pour into the open port- 
holes in tons, and with a sudden awful plunge, and a 
wild despairing cry of the doomed watchman, who is 
mucked down in the swirling waters, she sinks swiftly to 
the bottom, carrying with her twenty-five of her crew, 
not one escaping. Surrounded by vessels and only a 
quarter of a mile from shore. Oh, it was so sad ! 
Later she was raised at an enormous expense and thor- 
oughly renovated. 

As soon as we arrived in Sydney, we took the train 
for Ashfield. Mrs. Roberts informed us that the great 
play was still running, and mother expressed a wish to 
try once more to see it. When father returned on the 
six o'clock train with Mr. Roberts, he had tickets, not 
only for us, but for our friends. As soon as tea was 
over we started for Sydney. This time we were success- 
ful. We found that no praise could do this wonderful 
play justice, and were well paid for all of our expense 
and trouble. The stage setting was superb, the cos- 
tumes were magnificent and the acting perfect. I never 



150 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

have seen any thing before or since one half so beautiful T 
and we sat as if entranced from the opening to the clos- 
ing scene. 

At the close of the second day we returned to Bris- 
bane and the following week set sail for Newcastle. 

I dare say a great many of my readers have seen por- 
poises, but perhaps not many of you have ever eaten a 
piece of one. 

One afternoon, a few days after our departure from 
Brisbane, we observed a large school of porpoises at 
play a short distance from us, but gradually drawing 
nearer, until they were directly under the bows, and a 
handsome sight they were. We were sailing along 
making eight knots an hour and sending a broad wave 
of glistening snowy foam rolling from under the sharp 
prow. Father gave the order to cast the harpoon and 
try to capture one, as they are fine eating. One of our 
crew, a negro, had made several voyages in a whaler, 
and father appointed him to make the cast. Standing 
in the bow with the glittering harpoon poised high in 
air, he waits. He makes an effective picture standing 
there as motionless as though carved, in bronze, the blue 
sea for a background, the group of eager sailors close by 
and over all the bright yellow sunshine. Suddenly like 
a flash of lightning the harpoon disappears over the 
bow and is buried deep in the vitals of the finest por- 
poise in the lot. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 151 

Now began the death struggle of the huge fish. Now 
he would leap clear of the water, then in his efforts to es- 
cape would churn the water with his tail into crim- 
son foam. Its struggles grew weaker and weaker, 
and finally ceased. A running noose was then made 
in a stout line and one of the men lowered him- 
self into the fore chains and slipped it over its tail. It 
was then hauled on board, its blubber stripped off and 
enough steak taken off for supper. After being cleaned r 
it was hung in the fore shrouds, and no one on looking at 
it would believe it to be a fish hanging there, but rather 
a piece of meat, with fat and lean alternating. It looks 
like it, nor does the comparison end here. Except for a 
slight oily flavor, porpoise steak tastes very much like 
beef steak. As for myself, I would as soon have it 
any day. 

The next day we sighted land early in the morning,, 
and by four o'clock in the afternoon our pilot came on 
board. Some of the fish was still hanging in the 
shrouds. He inquired what kind of meat that might be. 
"It is not meat at all," answered my father, "but por- 
poise." The pilot could hardly credit it. 

There is a bar at the entrance to Newcastle harbor,, 
and it is a very dangerous place even on a calm day, the 
huge rollers always combing over it. The shore is bold 
and rocky, in places precipitous, and is a dangerous bit 
of coast line all round. 



152 DROPS OP SPEAY 

We cast anchor in the stream, as there were two ves- 
sels ahead of us at the wharf which we were to occupy. 
There were a number of American vessels here and 
some of the captains had their families on board. We 
were soon acquainted and had an extremely pleasant 
time while here. 

Captain Carney, of the American barque C. P. Dixon, 
was accompanied by his wife and daughter Lottie, a girl 
of my age. Their home was in Thomaston, Maine, and 
many were the pleasant hours Lottie and I spent togeth- 
er. I spent one night on board the C. P. Dixon. 
During the night a violent thunder shower came up, and 
the wind blew a perfect hurricane. The harbor is much 
exposed, and there are many safer places than Newcastle 
in a heavy storm. Many vessels dragged their anchors, 
and one large brig in ballast broke from her moorings 
and drifted, broadside on, into the wharf right ahead of 
us. She was secured without much damage. I worried 
about the Illie all night, I was so afraid she might drift 
ashore. The night was intensely dark except when 
lit up for a second by a brilliant flash of lightning. 
Morning dawned bright and beautiful, and the Illie was 
still lying quietly at anchor. 

We became acquainted with some very pleasant shore 
people. Among them was a professor named Hunt. 
His marriage had been a very romantic one. The son 
of an earl, reared in luxury, at the age of twenty -two 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 153 

he fell in love with a poor young music teacher. Al- 
though not of the nobility, she was of good birth and her 
only fault was poverty. But the proud old earl would not 
for a moment sanction such a marriage and threatened 
to disinherit his son if he dared to oppose his wishes. 
He did dare, however, and the young people were mar- 
ried in England and came directly to Newcastle, where 
Mr. Hunt lived very comfortably on a handsome salary 
as professor of a large college. They had a large family 
of children, Maggie and Fannie being the eldest, sixteen 
and eighteen years of age respectively, and bright, pretty 
girls, thorough ladies. 

I remember we gave a small tea party one afternoon, 
to which a few of our most intimate friends were bidden. 
They came early in the afternoon. Although a stiff 
breeze was blowing the sun shone bright and warm. 
The barometer was steadily falling, however. The sea- 
son of hurricanes was drawing near, and the weather 
was very uncertain. The wind increased in violence 
until by sunset it was blowing almost a gale, with a 
nasty sea making up. As soon as tea was over our 
guests began hurriedly to don hats and wraps, intending 
to reach shore while they could. One of our guests, 
Captain Baker, offered to carry four of the party on 
shore, while our boa teamed five more. None were left 
except the two Hunt girls, who lived on the opposite side 
of the harbor. 



154 DROPS OP SPRAY 

When our boat finally returned the rain was falling: 
in torrents, and the wind had increased to such violence 
that it would have been extremely dangerous to have 
ventured out again that night. There was no help for 
it, the Hunt girls must remain on board. 

It was very rough, the vessel rolling and pitching as 
badly, or nearly so, as on the open sea. Both of the 
girls, however, proved to be capital sailors. By noon 
the next day the gale had reached its height. Both an- 
chors were down at the bow, but it was found necessary 
to let go the big sheet anchor at the stern. , 

It was a dismal day. The rain beat against the cabin 
windows and the air was keen and chill, even in that hot 
climate. 

The gale lasted two days. The morning of the third 
day dawned bright and beautiful, with never a vestige of 
the late storm remaining. We bade adieu to our young 
guests, who were glad enough without doubt to get on 
shore again. A ship in a gale of wind is far from being 
a cheerful place of abode. 

We went on shore whenever we liked, which was quite 
often. In nearly all places, neither the boat nor the men 
to row, could be spared very often, that is, when we lay 
in the stream ; but here we did not need them. An old, 
retired sea captain ran a small launch expressly for the 
accommodation of the captains and their families on 
board of vessels that were anchored in the stream. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 155 

Whenever any one wished to go on shore, he had only 
to display a certain signal, which would be speedily 
answered. It was very convenient, and the charges 
were small. We made use of her twice, and on both occa- 
sions she was crowded. 

There was one beautiful spot in Newcastle, which we 
visited many times, the "Ocean Yiew Park." Here 
was soft, green grass, smooth as velvet, beds of choice 
brilliant flowers filling all the air with their heavy per- 
fume. In their midst, tinkling fountains sent their rain- 
bow-tinted spray gracefully into the air, whence it fell 
back into the marble basin with a soft musical sound, 
delicious to hear when tired and heated with our long 
walk from the wharf. 

We sink gratefully on one of the many rustic seats 
placed under the cool, green shadows of the trees. By 
and by, when we are rested, we will walk over to the 
cliffs which bound one side of this park. Bold and 
rocky they rise a hundred feet or more into the air. 
Immense green breakers came rolling in and dashed 
themselves with a noise of thunder at their base, send- 
ing the spray in a misty cloud high up their rugged 
face, only to fall back vanquished. It was a grand 
sight, indeed, and after a storm simply magnificent. 
Prom these cliffs an unexcelled view of the ocean was 
obtained. As often as I visited this spot, I always, 
turned away with regret. 



156 l&EOP OP SPRAY 



CHAPTER XXI. 

LOADING COAL — SHIPWRECKED. 

Finally came our turn at the wharf under the im- 
mense coal-shute. 

When we were here before, we stopped at the Hotel 
Criterion during the disagreeable interval of loading 
with coal. It is the general custom so to do. Mother 
thought at first that she would remain on board, but the 
experience of the first day decided her otherwise. The 
coal-shute pours a continuous stream of coal into the 
hold from quite a height with one continuous roar, 
which makes the stout vessel shake in every timber, 
while the fine coal dust penetrates to every crack and 
crevice. Of course under such conditions no windows 
could be open and the heat was intense. 

In this difficulty, Captain Baker of the American 
barque, Tilly Baker, came to our relief. If mother 
preferred the seclusion of a ship's cabin to a hotel, why 
-he would be delighted if we came on board of his vessel 
vduring the day while we were loading coal. As for 



PROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 157 

himself, he was obliged to be absent during the day so 
we should have the cabin all to ourselves. This kind 
invitation mother accepted with pleasure. We would go 
on board the Tilly Baker early in the morning and re- 
turn just before dark. Father stopped on board the 
Illie. 

It took a week to load, and a few days more to clean 
up and take in our provisions and water. We then 
hauled out into the stream. We were deeply laden, 
having in eleven hundred and sixty tons of coal. 

The day of our departure dawned clear and cloudless 
and scarcely a ripple stirred the placid waters of the 
harbor. Another ship, the big four-master Simla , 
sailed at the same time we did, bound for Liverpool, 
England. Our friends, Fannie and Maggie Hunt, came 
on board to bid us good-bye, returning in the pilot boat. 
It was rough crossing the bar, but outside it was fine. 
The crew of the Simla gave us three parting cheers 
which were answered by our men with a will. 

How little did any of us think then that neither of 
those gallant vessels would ever enter port again. The 
Simla went down in the English Channel, carrying twen- 
ty-two men with her. 

Ah, well! A wise Providence mercifully draws a 
veil over the future, else should we be miserable indeed. 

We were all in the best of spirits, laughing and talk- 
ing gaily. The sun shone brightly, and the sea was rip- 



158 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

pled by a light breeze just sufficient to fill the snowy 
sails. 

When the pilot boat bore away our friends, handker- 
chiefs were waved as long as we could see them. 

It was a most beautiful night ; the moon, queen of the 
night, riding like a huge silver ball through the soft 
purple sky, and leaving a brilliant pathway of light 
quivering across the silent ocean. Far into the night 
we sat on deck, loath to return to the hot cabin, drink- 
ing in the beauty of this most perfect night, and enjoy- 
ing the cool, sweet breeze that came softly across the 
mighty ocean. Now and then would mother break into 
a snatch of song. From forward, the soft subdued 
notes of an accordeon, played by a master hand, came 
floating sweetly to us. 

The pleasant weather continued. We had now been 
out two weeks, when one morning the welcome cry of 
"Sail ho," rang gladly out. She was a mere speck on 
the horizon, dead ahead. Our vessel being much the 
faster sailer, by dark we had come up with her, actually 
side by side. Both vessels were hove to while the two 
captains exchanged a few words. She was an iron 
barque, the Ironsides. She was sailing very slowly, 
and the captain said she was foul. He had been in 
Southern waters many months and should be glad 
when he arrived at a port where there was a dry dock, 
so that he could have her cleaned. That is one great 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 159 

trouble with iron vessels, they get fouled so quickly 
with thousands of great barnacles, which never stick to 
a copper bottomed vessel. 

After learning all we wished to, and giving them the 
necessary information we forged ahead, and the next 
morning the old Ironsides was miles astern. By con- 
sulting his charts, which by the way were the latest, 
father decided not to attempt the passage through the 
group of islands, known as the Solomon Archipelago, 
but rather to take the longer but much safer way, 
through the northeast passage. 

Every year the English government, to whom these 
islands belong, sends a surveying ship here to find out 
the exact location of all the dangerous reefs and hidden 
rocks. You perhaps will say, why is such an expensive 
proceeding necessary every year? Why wouldn't once 
suffice? Well, perhaps it would in some localities, but 
not here. By consulting your geography you will find 
that the Solomon Archipelago lies very near the Equator 
and eleven hundred miles from Australia, the nearest 
civilized land. The islands are of coral formation and 
are volcanic, earthquakes being a common occurrence. 
Reefs and even islands are continually sinking, to be 
thrown up in an entirely new place. This is the cause 
of such frequent surveys, and was the reason why father 
dreaded to make the passage through them although it 
would shorten our voyage many miles. With all their 



160 DROPS OF SPRAY 

dangers, they are peopled with a race of savages, the 
most degraded of God's creatures, many of them being 
cannibals. I believe it is the only spot on earth where 
this repulsive, awful habit is carried on. 

We were now approaching these islands, and a watch 
was kept night and day. If the weather would only 
continue pleasant for a few days longer until the danger 
was passed! But God willed otherwise. March third 
we were caught in the dreaded hurricane, which rages 
so frequently at this season of the year, with the wind 
blowing "great guns" dead ahead, the waves running 
mountains high, and the vessel enveloped in a blinding 
cloud of mist and rain. Although we were in the Trop- 
ics, the air was really chilly. The sun was so obscured 
that father lost his reckoning and we were blown off our 
course, and on the morning of March fourth, with the 
gale still raging, land suddenly loomed up through the 
heavy mist close on our port side. As we were in the 
vicinity of the islands, this then must be one of them. 

Upon consulting the chart, father found that the outer 
island was Guadalcanal. We were quite near shore, 
and but for our extreme danger I should have enjoyed 
the scene ; as it was, with grave faces ail-about me I, too, 
became subdued. The island was mountainous, and 
covered with verdure to its top. By eight o'clock we 
were fairly in among the islands and no help for it. 

I stayed on deck or fa short time and then went be- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 161 

low to stop with Sydney, who lay on the bed fast asleep, 
while mother, too uneasy to stay in the cabin, donned 
mackintosh and a close fitting cap and stationed herself 
by father's side on deck. A sharp lookout was kept 
from the foretop for possible reefs ; although with the 
weather so thick, and the sea combing all around us, it 
would have been almost impossible to have discerned one. 
It was Sunday when I returned to the cabin. I 
changed my thin dress for a woolen one, as I really felt 
chilly. I took off my heavy shoes with the intention of 
putting on my slippers, but without doing so. I picked 
up an interesting book and seated myself on the lounge 
in mother's room, where I could watch Sydney. I was 
soon buried in my book. Presently I heard a great 
commotion on deck. Orders rapidly shouted above the 
roar of the gale, men running quickly to and fro, and 
ropes and cordage rattling. Jumping up I looked out of 
the window. The sight made me shudder. Close to us, 
so near that we just cleared it, was a long, low, wicked- 
looking reef, with the huge green waves curling and 
foaming around it as we swept quickly past. With a 
thankful heart that we still had a good stout ship under 
us I sank down again and was soon deeply engrossed in 
my story. I had just reached the most interesting part, 
and was following the fortunes of the heroine with 
breathless interest, when crash — crash — bang — came a 
a terrific shock and a sound of tearing, rending wood. 



162 DROP OF SPRAY 

I was thrown violently from the lounge to the other side 
of the stateroom. Then for one brief, awful second, in 
which I could hear the loud ticking of the clock, the 
vessel stood still quivering with the shock, then settled 
swiftly down upon the hidden reef, where she soon 
began to bump with terrible force, making the swinging 
bed where Sydney lay pound sharply against the floor. 
With a wild, awful terror, which seemed to turn to ice 
my very heart's blood, I rushed to the bed, snatched up 
the crying baby and started for the deck. Mother came 
stumbling rather than running down the stairs with a 
face like death and wide, horror-filled eyes. 

"Oh ! my God, my God, Lucy," she gasped, "we are 
on a reef. Pray for us, for we are lost." I laid Sydney 
in her arms, and for one brief instant I dropped on my 
knees and raised my clasped hands to Heaven. "Oh 
God, we are very near death. Save us in thy infinite 
mercy, for Jesus' sake," I gasped through my white lips. 
Then rushing past her I made my way on deck. 

The scene was a wild one and enough to make a 
stouter heart than mine sink in despair. But I came of 
a race of soldiers and sailors, and, young as I was, I bore 
up bravely. 

"We had gone nearly over the rock, and now stuck 
fast by the stern. It was a volcanic reef many feet be- 
low the surface and invisible. Every wave that swept 
under us sent us crashing down upon it. All around us 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 163 

was a boiling caldron, which roared with a noise of 
thunder and sent the spray flying in sheets across 
the deck. 

No boat could live an instant in that swirl of angry 
waters. Our only hope lay in setting every stitch of 
canvas and driving the vessel off the reef. If this 
failed we were lost, and we were only five miles from a 
land peopled with savages far more cruel than the hun- 
gry waves. 

There was no panic although each man's face was set 
and pale, but with death staring them in the face they 
quietly obeyed each order as it was given, them with- 
out a murmer. 

Going to the railing I stared as if fascinated at the 
fearful scene before me. No sound escaped me. I 
seemed like one paralyzed, and my breath came short 
and pantingly, when the thought rushed over me, 
"This day you may stand in the presence of your 
Maker." I felt no fear, for the thought of my darling 
mother waiting for me there sustained me in this hour 
of mortal peril. 

As one of the sailors was passing, he must have 
noticed my deathly face, for he stopped to say hurriedly, 
"If worse comes to worst, I'll look out for ye, Miss. I'll 
risk but I could git ye ashore all safe and take care 
them black devils don't tech ye after we git there, too, 
so never you mind." "Oh, Bill, "I cried, grasping his 



164 DROPS OP SPRAY 

rough hand, "is there no hope for the vessel ? We shall 
be drowned, we shall be drowned." "There, there, 
Miss," came the comforting response, "don't ee take on 
so. I've been cast away many a time and here I be yit. 
As for the ship, she be a goner sure. The Holy Mother 
presarve us," crossing himself and hurrying on. 

Strange as it may seem, these rough words imparted a 
ray of hope, and I turned to go down in the cabin. 
Just as I reached the door the Illie made one final 
plunge and stove the rudder-head right up through the 
deck, breaking the wheel into splinters and almost 
knocking the man who was steering overboard. At the. 
same instant she slid off the reef into deep water. 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 165 



CHAPTER XXII. 

IN AN OPEN BOAT. 

The vessel was headed straight for the beach on the 
Tlee side of an island and was of course unmanageable. 
Orders were given to work the pumps, while father 
went down into the cabin a minute to see how mother 
was standing it, and I followed him. Presently a sailor 
came down and stood there respectfully, hat in hand. 
"If you please, sir, six feet of water in the hold and 
gaining on us fast." Father's face grew a shade paler. 
"We shall have to take to the boats," he cried. Going 
on deck he gave the order to stop pumping and lower 
the boats. I found mother very pale but calm. She 
. already had a few of the most necessary things picked 
up, and she now began to make preparations to leave 
the vessel. Going to the pantry I took ten jars of 
French prunes and half a dozen tins of sweet arrowroot 
biscuit and placed them among the bundles to be taken. 
I do not know why I should have thought of them, as I 
.certainly did not think of myself, nor did mother, 



166 DEOPS OF SPEAT 

for I never saved a rag of clothes except those I stood 
in. All of my beautiful clothes, my small assortment 
of pretty jewels, all were forgotton. Mother put her 
watch around her neck under her dress- 
Presently we heard father's voice bidding us hurry. 
I went on deck without either hat or shoes on. The 
vessel was rolling very heavily, as a sinking vessel al- 
ways does. "The dear old Illie must go," father ex- 
claimed, as with genuine tears of grief he took Sydney 
from mother's arms and led the way to the boat. Two 
of the men were in her, keeping her from being smashed 
into kindling wood against the vessel's side. Now the 
boat would be high above us as the vessel rolled to port, 
now many feet below the rail. 

Mother stood upon the rail supported by two stalwart 
sailors. As the boat rose swiftly to the edge she 
jumped and was caught by those in the boat and seated 
in the stern. Then Sydney was passed in and I found 
myself standing on the rail, trembling with fright. 
I landed safely, however. Of course father did not 
leave the vessel at all. 

As soon as we were all in we were fastened to the 
vessel with a long rope, and I heard father tell the men 
that if the vessel was seen to be sinking, they must cut 
the rope and be careful not to be sucked down in the 
terrible rush of air. As for himself, as well as those 
left on board, they would save themselves if they could. 



PEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 167 

We fell rapidly astern. It was now half past ten in 
the forenoon. My thoughts flew to my sister, thousands 
of miles away. What would she think to see us now ? 
Ever and anon a wave dashed over us almost swamping 
the boat and keeping one man busy bailing water, while 
the rain beat down incessantly. 

Wet and hungry, we sat there until night. Finally 
one of the men took his oil-skin jacket off and laid it 
over my shoulders, while the other gave me his sou- 
wester, which I tied under my chin. I soon felt a 
degree more comfortable, though my teeth chattered, 
and I trembled from head to foot from sheer fright. 
Mother was well wrapped up, but Sydney, poor little 
fellow, cried incessantly with a steady moaning cry that 
made our very hearts ache, and would not be comforted. 
He was only a year old. The day wore on. Slowly, 
very slowly drifted the doomed vessel toward the beach. 
The pumps were now being worked steadily in order to 
keep her afloat until she struck. We should then be- 
able to save much more, for fortunately the beach here 
was soft and sandy. 

As we drifted under the lee of the island, which 
loomed green with verdure dead ahead, the water be- 
came much smoother. Outside it blew as fiercely as 
ever, and the rain still continued to fall, though not so 
heavily. Sydney had long since ceased his cries and 
now lay fast asleep, enveloped in a soft, warm shawl. 



168 DROPS OF SPRAY 

We were now close in shore, but saw no sign of human 
habitation. 

Even while we gazed three large canoes shot from 
around the point and paddled rapidly towards us. 
Hastily father ran up the ensign, union down, thinking 
they might understand the signal, which is "dis- 
tress." I cannot speak for the rest, but I felt as if 
already I could feel their knives buried in my heart. 
I hope I shall never again experience that awful, sick- 
ening sensation that passed over me. I felt as if our 
worst fears were confirmed. 

Father now took his Winchester and lowered himself 
into our boat to protect us with his life if need be. All 
of our crew were well armed. Luckily father was ac- 
quainted with some of the habits of the South Sea is- 
landers and acted accordingly. 

On they came with fierce, blood-curdling yells, en- 
tirely naked except for the clout, their bare brown 
bodies glistening with oil. Some were black as ebony, 
others as light as mulattoes, but all very repulsive. 
In nearly every instance their heads of wool were 
either dyed or bleached out to a faded yellow. They 
were covered with all sorts of rude ornaments, and I 
noticed that one or two seemed to be afflicted with 
some kind of a skin disease, for their bodies were 
completely covered with scaly, dead skin or proud 
flesh. It made me actually sick to look at them. Their 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 169 

eyes were their worst feature. Black, as a matter of 
course, they had the wild, fierce, lurid glare of the 
wild animal confident of his prey. 

The middle canoe, propelled by ten paddlers, was 
beautifully inlaid with mother of pearl. In the centre 
under a rude canopy, sat the royal gentleman himself ; 
the blackest, fiercest human being I ever beheld ; a per- 
fect type of a bloodthirsty cannibal chief. 

Two of the canoes came swiftly alongside of the boat, 
while the other made for the vessel ; and the savages 
were soon swarming over her decks. They were un- 
armed, and we had nothing to fear from them as long as 
it was daylight. They are very sly and treacherous and 
proceed with great caution always. They used every 
persuasion to induce us to accompany them on shore. 
If we, in our ignorance, had gone, they would have 
treated us kindly for several weeks, and then, when our 
fears were lulled to rest, at early dawn would the mur- 
derous villains come creeping stealthily along, like some 
deadly snake, and bury their gleaming knives in our 
hearts. Only Sydney would escape, for they never kill a 
white baby, but would bring him up as their own, treat- 
ing him with the greatest kindness. The rest of us 
would be cooked and eaten in the most approved style. 

These are hard, barren facts, and not by any means 
the fruits of a vivid imagination. 

Where we were wrecked is the most dangerous spot 



170 DROPS OF SPRAY 

in the whole islands. In 1870, twenty vessels were 
wrecked among these islands, and their crews murdered 
and eaten. We found all this out later. 

One of the savages could speak a little English and to 
him we related our misfortune. That he understood 
was very evident, for in his eyes gleamed a cruel satis- 
faction. Then he turned to the rest and interpreted 
what had just been told him. Their faces lit up with a 
savage smile, while they smacked their lips in pleasant 
anticipation. 

The vessel now struck on the beach, thrusting her 
bowsprit among the bushes and trees that grew close to 
the water's edge. Unfortunately there was liquor on 
board, used strictly for medicinal purposes, consist- 
ing of a few bottles of the • best brandy and wine, to- 
gether with ten bottles of gin, that the former captain 
had left on board. This last was under seal. 

As soon as we left the vessel, the cook slipped down, 
unobserved, into the cabin and secured the whole lot. 
Perhaps thinking this was his last chance on earth, or 
else to drown terror, he got gloriously drunk, to the 
everlasting horror of the remainder of our crew who 
must have been an exceptional lot. I will say that none 
of them touched a drop. 

The boat was hauled alongside and we went on board, 
stiff and cramped with sitting so long. Only what was- 
absolutely needed was taken in the boat. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 171 

Our savage visitors promptly followed us on deck and 
father loaded them with presents, thinking they would 
go, but he was mistaken. Finally taking his rifle he 
stepped up to the one who understood English and said 
sternly, "Do you see this ?" Thinking he meant to 
make him a present of it, the savage answered eagerly, 
"Yes, yes, me see it, me see it." "Well," came the re- 
ply, "the rifle is'nt for you, but the bullets are if you 
don't make tracks for shore almighty quick." They all 
understood his threatening attitude, and speedily en- 
tered their canoes and paddled away in the gloom. 

As soon as all had eaten supper, work was begun ins 
earnest. The idea of going on shore was dismissed en- 
tirely. There was nothing for it but to take to the open 
boats until we either reached some civilized land, or 
were rescued from our perilous position. A canvas 
covering was fastened, tetit fashion, over one half of the 
long boat to afford some slight protection to mother, 
Sydney and me. 

We carried only a very few clothes, but took blankets 
and one or two comfortables as the nights were at times 
chilly, in spite of the great heat of the day. We took 
several tins of preserved meats, fruits, and the like, and 
quantities of ship's biscuit, not forgetting a few cans of 
condensed milk for Sydney. A cask of water was then 
lowered into the boat, and the sextant, compass, and the 
necessary charts were also taken. 



172 DROPS OP SPRAY 

The men worked quickly and with very little noise, as 
we might be surprised by the natives any moment. By 
eleven o'clock all was in readiness. I would not leave 
any beloved cats behind but took them both with me. 

Father was in command of the long-boat with rather 
more than half of the men, while the first mate with the 
remainder of the crew, entered the jolly-boat. Father 
had great difficulty in getting the drunken cook to leave 
the vessel, and finally had to handcuff him and take him 
by main force. All the liquor having been taken from 
Tiirn and cast into the sea, he came round all right the 
next morning. 

We staid by the vessel all night, and a watch being 
set, the men composed themselves to sleep. I never 
-closed my eyes. The violent tossing of the boat, the 
grief at losing our vessel, combined with the terrible ex- 
citement of the day, kept me awake. Hour after hour 
rolled by ; no sound was heard but the dashing of the 
surf upon the beach, and the steady tinkle of the rain- 
drops on the canvas covering over our heads. At inter- 
vals the words of the watchman rang out sharp and 
clear, "All is well." 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 173 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

SUFFERING WITH THIRST. 

Just as the dawn began to shimmer rosily in the 
East, word was given to cut the ropes which bound us to 
the Illie. Softly, noiselessly the oars were dipped in 
water, and the boats were quietly and swiftly propelled 
out of arrow reach of the shore. 

It was a glorious morning after the storm. A gentle 
breeze just rippled the intense blue of the sea, and the 
sky was all flnshed^with rosy hues of the approaching 
sunrise. Just as we rounded the point the glorious 
King of Day burst forth in all his splendor. 

But who is there who can spend a year or two on 
board a vessel and not learn to love it as though it were 
something human, just as the engineer loves his en- 
gine, or the soldier his rifle ? I think there is no one. 
So, although therefwere the marvelous beauties of the 
Tropics spread all around us, we saw them not, for our 
hearts were filled with grief. Our noble vessel, after 
having borne us safely through many perils, now lay 



174 DROPS OF SPRAT 

bruised and broken upon the cruel rocks, her sails hang- 
ing idly against her masts. I looked until the island 
hid her from view, then turned away with brimming 
eyes and a full heart. Even father's eyes were wet as 
he murmured sadly, "Well, that's the last of the poor 
old Illie." 

The sun rose higher and higher until the gorgeous 
islands around us in their vivid green verdure resem- 
bled huge emeralds in a setting of flashing, glittering 
blue, with the softer blue of the sky as a background. 

Our boat carried a mainsail and two jibs and could 
make pretty good time. Some means must be devised 
to provide a sail for the jolly-boat that was now towed 
astern, and greatly retarded our progress. 

By some strange chance, a large roll of drilling had 
been placed in our boat. Mother had purchased it for 
furniture covering, as it was an excellent, firm piece, and 
very cheap. We found by making it double it would 
make a very good sail. One of the men had brought his 
"work bag," in which were sail needles, a palm and a 
ball of twine. A "muttonleg" sail was soon manufac- 
tured and hoisted on an oar, with which she made very 
good progress. 

We could now perceive hundreds of dusky figures 
running among the thick trees on shore. As soon as 
th ey perceived us they sent up loud yells of rage and 
disappointment, for although near enough to discern 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 175 

every movement on shore, we were very careful to keep 
out of reach of their poisoned arrows, which with their 
long, glittering knives, comprise their only weapons 
of warfare. 

Presently several of the men came down to the beach, 
bearing palm branches in their hands, which they 
waved toward us, to signify that they meant peace, and 
would do us no harm. We kept right on, however, and 
paid no attention to them. For twenty miles along the 
beach tbey followed us, uttering occasionally wild yells. 

We were put on a short allowance of both food and 
water ; in fact one swallow of water when our thirst be- 
came unbearable was all that we were allowed. 

As the sun rose higher and higher, it shone down 
with a hot, blistering glare, as only a tropical sun can 
shine. No tongue nor pen could describe our suffer- 
ings. They were something terrible. I pray God that 
I may never suffer again what I went through those 
three awful days in the boat. 

I could not eat, for my throat was parched and burn- 
ing. Water was all I craved, and what few drops were 
given me, almost maddened me in my desire for more. 

I could not stay one instant under the canvas, which 
seemed to draw the heat, but preferred the open air and 
possible sunstroke. I had no hat, but an extra one had 
been thrown into the boat, and this I donned. 

I longed with a wild, intense longing to drink the 



176 DROPS OF SPRAY 

cool delicious-looking water which leaped and sparkled 
as we plunged along, occasionally throwing the glitter- 
ing drops over the bows. Alas ! it was salt, and to 
drink of it meant madness and death. However, every 
few minutes I would lean over and plunge my arms to 
the elbows in the refreshing water, and take my hat, 
after wetting it thoroughly, place it on my head and, 
closing my eyes, allow the cool water to trickle down 
my face and neck. 

Father warned me but I heeded him not. I should 
have known better myself, for experience is a dear 
teacher, as I soon found out. By night my arms and 
face were red and swollen and covered with tiny blisters. 

"We sailed all day among islands of wondrous beauty, 
which was well-nigh lost upon us in our great suffering. 

It was father's intention to put back to Australia, 
over one thousand miles distant; hence the need of 
short allowance. 

We had been almost out of sight of the jolly-boat 
all day, but when night came we ran under the lee 
of a small island and cast anchor, the other boat soon 
coming up and being moored alongside. 

There was a glorious moon, which fact was in our 
favor, as it brought out every tree and leaf on shore as 
plain as day, while we lay in the shadow. The cool 
night air brought us some relief, and soon all but the 
watch were wrapped in profound slumber. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 177 

The following day was but a repetition of the first, 
with one exception. About noon we were abreast a 
small island, and we could see the brown bunches of 
cocoanuts hanging on the tall trees very plainly. We 
longed for some of their cooling fluid, but dared not land 
to procure any. 

Presently two small canoes shot out from the bushes 
and came swiftly towards us. Their occupants emitted 
none of those terrible, bloodthirsty yells as the others 
had done, neither did they look so savage, but seemed 
quite friendly. 

Father thought he might exchange my two cats 
with them for some water and green cocoanuts. They 
seemed very shy, and we had hard work to get them 
to come near enough to speak with. They understood 
no English, but by signs and wild gesticulations we 
finally made them understand what we wanted, and 
they departed with alacrity. I felt very sorry to part 
with my pets, although to keep them in the boat would 
be impossible. 

The natives soon returned, bearing quantities of green 
cocoanuts and big yellow oranges and mangoes, but it 
was found that the big, tin, sailor's coffee-pot, which was 
all that could be found to get water in, had in some 
way sprung a leak, so that by the time they reached us, 
there was very little water left. We gave them' my cats, 
which they received eagerly and with great curiosity. 



178 DROPS OF SPEAT 

We found the nuts delicious and very refreshing. 
They were very green, the meat thin and soft, of the 
consistency of mush, requiring to be eaten with a spoon, 
while each nut contained nearly a quart of cool, sweet 
milk, that greatly alleviated our thirst, so that we did 
not suffer nearly so much as on the first day. A fresh 
breeze sprang up in the afternoon, and we dashed mer- 
rily along. Sydney seemed much brighter and scarcely 
cried at all. 

The third day dawned clear and cloudless finding us 
still surrounded with islands and not a friendly sail in 
sight. The breeze was very light, barely enough to fill 
the sails. Slowly the day wore on, and the sun sank 
calmly to his rest. Just as he was sending his last 
ruddy gleams across the quivering water, came the wel- 
come, 0' so welcome, cry of "sail ho," ringing gladly, 
joyously from the lookout seated in the bow. 

"Where away?" shouted father, who was steering, 
springing to his feet. 

"Dead ahead, sir, around that point of land. She 
seems to be anchored. A small schooner, sir." 



PROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 179 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

PICKED UP BY THE LOTUS. 

In a minute we were standing breathless, with excited 
faces, gazing towards the spot indicated. Yes, sure 
enough, in the fading light, two tall, bare masts were 
sharply outlined against the crimson sky. 

Soon a boat shot out from the point and'came swiftly 
towards us. Then, for the first time since our disaster, 
mother — my dear, brave young mother— broke complete- 
ly down and sobbed hysterically from sheer joy and 
thankfulness. For three days the strain on her nerv- 
ous system had been intense, and the reaction proved 
too much. 

There is no twilight in the Tropics, and it was now 
nearly dark. In the stern of the approaching boat sat 
a man, a white man, thank God, with a bronzed, genial 
face, but the rowers were natives, dressed, however, in 
regular sailor costume. 

They were soon alongside and had heard our story, 
and the captain had introduced himself. He was a 



180 DROPS OP SPRAY 

Scotchman and master of the little trader, Lotus, en- 
gaged in the copra trade. Of course many of you know 
that the islands belong to England, and many traders go 
there at certain seasons of the year when there are no- 
hurricanes, with cargoes of beads, calico, pipes, tobacco,, 
and various other knick-knacks calculated to take the 
fancy of the savage population. These are exchanged 
for copra, and the traders make an immense profit. 
They generally get rich, although they take their lives- 
in their hands. 

Copra is made from the cocoanut and is used ex- 
tensively in the manufacture of fine perfumes, soap and 
hair oil. Many countries use it, but France takes the 
lead. This Captain McDonald had been cruising among 
these islands for four years, but would shortly return to 
Scotland. He had bought his goods at the trading sta- 
tion and shipped his copra in other vessels, as the Lotus 
was not seaworthy, but would do very well to coast 
among the islands. He had never visited G-uadelcanal, 
and he congratulated us on our escape. He said it was- 
the most dangerous part of the whole archipelago and 
was given a wide berth by all vessels, excepting once a 
year when the surveying ship went there. He could not 
take us back to Australia, but he would take us to Ugi r 
where we could stay until we were able to secure a pas- 
sage on some ship. 

Ugi was a small island only ten miles long and five 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 181 

miles wide, in the shape of a half-moon, on which was 
the principal trading station of the entire archipelago. 
This was owned by a Scotchman, Craig by name, who 
had made the island his home for eighteen years. He 
had had a companion for the past year, a young Ger- 
man, sent out by the museum of Sydney to collect rare 
birds, snakes and curios peculiar to these islands. 

There were about one hundred natives residing at 
Ugi, and, although they could not be trusted, still it was 
the safest place for us to go. It seemed that Captain 
McDonald had just come from there. 

We had by this time reached the Lotus and were 
helped on board, as we were very sore and stiff from 
sitting in the boat so long. The schooner was a small, 
weather-beaten craft of about fifty tons burden, but she 
was a refuge and looked beautiful to us. 

I went directly to the water butt and drank and 
drank, until I could drink no more, of the blessed, 
life-giving water. How good it did taste to my 
parched throat ! 

We were to get under way early in the morning, so 
we soon spread our blankets down on the deck, as the 
cabin was very small and very hot and alive with cock- 
roaches. I was very tired and slept soundly on my 
hard bed with no covering but the purple, star-gemmed 
sky over our heads. 

Before sunrise the next morning we were awakened 



182 DROPS OF SPRAY 

by a most unearthly screaming and chattering. Run- 
ning to the rail, I beheld a most beautiful sight. We 
lay close in shore and every tree and bush was perfectly 
white with, cockatoos, whose snowy plumage made a 
striking contrast to the vivid green of the foliage. 
They were evidently having a matinee, which they kept 
up without cessation until the sun rose, when, in an in- 
stant, the woods were silent, and not even a gleam of 
white disturbed its green repose. 

As soon as breakfast was over, which, by the way, 
was ample and very good, the anchor was weighed, the 
sails set, and we glided slowly past the point of land. 
As we got out from under the lee of the island the 
breeze was much stronger, and we were soon making 
very good progress. The Lotus was a wretched sailer 
and rolled heavily, though no water was shipped. 

We dropped anchor in Ugi one night, just two weeks 
after we started from Cockatoo Island. I had lain down 
and was sleeping soundly when father aroused me to 
go on shore. I shall never forget the eerie feeling that 
came over me as I opened my eyes and gazed around. 
The hour was close on midnight and the sky heavily 
overcast, with not a star visible. The wind sobbed and 
wailed through the rigging like a lost soul in despair, 
while we could see the surf break on the beach with a 
long line of phosphorescent foam. 

All was silent as the grave on shore, and not a light 



FEOM SOUTHEEN SEAS. 183 

was visible. A gun was fired once — twice — and then 
we could see a lantern bobbing along among the trees. 
It halted close to the water's edge and waited while 
Captain McDonald and father were rowed quickly to 
the shore. Presently we could hear the grating sound 
of the boat as it was pushed off and the splash of the 
oars as they struck the water, making two bright 
flashes of light due to the presence of phosphorus. In 
a very short time we had bidden farewell to our kind 
host, who was to leave that same night. 

I trust my readers will pardon me if I digress, but I 
wish to say a word about Mr. Craig and his surround- 
ings before I proceed. He was a man in the prime of 
life, with the form of an athlete ; tall and well-knit, with 
an honest, kindly face lighted up by a pair of keen blue 
eyes — a man you could trust. He had married a native 
girl by whom he had three children. 

His house, or shanty, was situated a short distance 
from the beach, and was a long, low structure built 
of tin roofing with square holes left for windows, minus 
the glass. It was thatched with cocoanut leaves laid 
on in several thicknesses, and was divided into four 
rooms, two on each side of a wide hall, running through 
the shanty with a door in each end. A veranda ex- 
tended around the front, under which a hammock 
was strung. 

Close by were the large store-houses where the dried 



184 DROPS OF SPRAY 

copra was stored. Back of the shanty was another, 
smaller one, which was placed at the disposal of our 
crew. The cook-house stood close down by the beach, 
and was built simply of bamboo poles and thatched. 
I think you have some idea of what our home was 
for eight weary weeks, so I will not detain you longer. 
We followed our guide to the shanty, spread our 
blankets on the rude wooden bunks,' and were soon 
wrapped in slumber. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 185 



CHAPTER XXV. 

UGI. 

When I awoke the sun was streaming into the room, 
and with the exception of Sydney, who still lay in a 
deep sleep, I was alone. Just then seven young war- 
riors, each carrying a short glittering hatchet, filed 
past the window and disappeared into the woods be- 
yond. Outside I could hear the soft, musical call of 
the metallic pigeon and love-birds and, now and then, 
the harsh screech of the parrot. I was frightened, and 
hardly dared to move, and wondered where on earth 
mother could be. Just as I was actually ready to cry 
from sheer loneliness and fright, mother came in, look- 
ing cool and refreshed. "Such a delightful bath as I 
have had !" she said gaily. "You should have joined 
me, you lazy girl. Your father is still on the beach." 

Presently breakfast was announced, and we took our 
places around the rude board table, bare of tablecloth 
or napkins. The table was set in the wide, cool hall, 
and both doors were opened _ wide. We were introduced 



186 DROPS OF SPRAY 

to the young German, a pale, quiet chap, who spoke 
English with a strong accent. Mrs. Craig did not ap- 
pear, neither did the children, but as soon as we had 
finished they sat down. She was very good-looking in- 
deed, but very dark; wearing the civilized dress, but with 
her hands, arms and ears loaded with cheap jewelry. 
The children were no darker than brunettes and were 
quite pretty. The eldest was six years of age, the young- 
est, nine months. Mrs. Craig also had a sister living 
with her, a bright, jolly girl, if she was a savage. We 
called her Polly. 

After breakfast I went out to view my surroundings. 
The island was a perfect gem. Its foliage was varied 
and beautiful, and in the early morning the trees were 
radiant with brilliant-hued birds, such as gorgeous par- 
rots, love-birds with their soft, delicate plumage, tiny 
honey-eaters clad in scarlet and black, the sable wag- 
tail with its snowy breast, and the lovely metallic pigeon 
with its wings, back, and head a beautiful changeable 
green and its breast a soft, delicate gray. 

As the sun rose and shone fiercely down, the woods 
would gradually become silent. Snakes are very rare 
among these islands, the harmless whip-snake being the 
largest. Lizards are everywhere. There are two species, 
of which one is poisonous, the other, harmless. The for- 
mer is a many-jointed worm as large around as a man's 
finger, about six inches long and of the palest green 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 187 

color. Its eyes are jetty black and look like two twink- 
ling beads. When touched it ejects a very poisonous 
fluid, which, if it strikes the eyes, causes total blind- 
ness. I have often seen them crawling over the walls, 
and when I did, would run for Mrs. Craig or Polly to 
capture them. Throwing a thick cloth over her hand 
and arm, she would pick up the obnoxious reptile and 
crush it with a large stone. 

The other was like any lizard in shape, but in color 
was a bright green with crimson and yellow markings- 
It could be seen at any time crawling on the walls, and 
often dropped down on the beds. Although at first I 
was very much frightened at them, I soon ceased to 
mind them. 

Mr. Craig had quite a garden back of his house, but 
the contents were quite different from those we have in 
Maine. In this garden grew pineapples, yams, taro, and 
several vegetables which were very good, but which I 
did not know the names of. Overshadowing the back 
door was a large lemon tree, covered with fruit, at this, 
season of the year green ; still it made excellent lemonade. 

All around us stood the tall, straight cocoanut trees r . 
like sentinels, interspersed with the. feathery bamboo, the 
beautiful spreading mango, the graceful drooping banana 
palm, the vegetable ivory, and the bread fruit and- 
lemon, with its sweet-scented leaves. Another magnifi- 
cent tree had the most feathery, delicate foliage I hadi 



188 DROPS OF SPRAY 

ever beheld. On it grew small, scarlet berries, looking 
very much like the cranberry, but being sweet. The 
tree was very tall and its trunk bare of branches to the 
height of ten feet. It overhung a small clear brook, 
into which its fruit would drop. Every morning I would 
go down and gather what I could find. I was very fond 
of them. I asked Mr. Craig if they were poisonous. 
"The pigeons eat them," he replied, "and never be 
afraid to eat what a pigeon will, for it will not hurt you." 

The only animals on the islands are the wild hogs, 
some of them very fierce and savage. Mr. Craig had a 
large drove of them which he had partly tamed. They 
were fed cocoanuts, by one of his native servants, every 
night and morning. 

Down close to the beach, under a wide-spreading 
mango, was an immense pile of ripe cocOanuts. A large 
iron disk was sunk into the soft sand. When feeding 
time came, instead of taking a pail of evil smelling 
swill and going to a dirty sty, this native would station 
himself in front of this disk and smash the nuts, from 
which the husks had been removed, down upon it with 
such force as to burst them open, revealing the rich, 
white meat. Instantly the drove of hogs would make 
their appearance, running from the woods, perhaps fifty 
of them, squealing and fighting. With marvellous dex- 
terity would they clean the meat from the shells, grunt- 
ing with satisfaction while the nuts still came smashing 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 189 

down. A dense circle of long, bristling bodies and 
nervous, wiggling tails would quickly form around the 
native, while the air would be filled with grunts and 
squeals and the smacking of their jaws. Sitting on the 
veranda, we thoroughly enjoyed the novel scene. 

They are not the fat, short-legged pigs seen in Maine, 
but lean and wiry. Fed on cocoanuts, and what roots 
and herbs they find themselves, no pork ever tasted so 
sweet and delicious, or had such an exquisite nutty 
flavor. Mr. Craig killed and roasted a young pig while 
we were there, and it was fine, but rather heavy eating 
for such hot weather. Our cook did the cooking for all 
hands. 

We soon fell short of . provisions. Mr. Craig would 
have had enough to last him until the yearly ar- 
rival of the traders, but with fifteen people coming 
suddenly in upon him they were soon gone. The flour 
lasted three weeks ; after that we never saw any bread 
for the remainder of our stay there. The tea and coffee 
were soon gone, but the corn meal held out pretty well. 

We were allowed two meals a day only ; breakfast at 
ten o'clock, dinner at four. The bill of fare consisted of 
meal mush, eaten with brown sugar, of which there was 
a liberal supply, stewed pigeons, fresh fish, yams and 
vegetables. Sometimes we had in place of the mush a 
little boiled rice. There was no bread, no crackers, and 
the same fare every day. Fruit we had in plenty. 



190 DROPS OF SPRAY 

We did not suffer from hunger or thirst, for on the 
island were four clear streams of fresh water. How 
they came there was a mystery, as all around us was the 
.salt water, but there they were, and the water was cool 
and delicious. 

Directly opposite loomed the blue outlines of San 
Christovel, a very mountainous island, populated by a 
very savage tribe, who often visited Ugi. 

I will tell you how the fish, with which the waters 
teemed, were caught. They were never known to bite a 
hook but are killed with dynamite, and the natives dive 
for them as they lay stunned on the bottom. It is an 
easy matter to see the fish, as the water is wonderfully 
transparent. The bottom can be distinctly seen many 
fathoms, as though one were looking in a mirror. It is 
simply wonderful. Polly took me for a row in the bay 
one afternoon, just to show it to me. I seemed suddenly 
transferred to fairyland, as I leaned over the boat and 
gazed at the grand panorama spread out beneath me ; 
beautiful colored corals in all their delicate tracery, 
rare sea mosses and rocks, in and out of which brilliant 
and strange colored fish flashed and shone. By sitting 
upright and looking off around us, the wonderful trans- 
parency of the water gave us the appearance of being 
afloat in a sea of moss, although in reality the water was 
many fathoms deep. 

It was pitch dark when we returned, although not yet 



FKOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 191 

six. When the sun sinks, darkness intense follows, with 
no long lingering twilight between. I did not relish my 
position out there in the bay after darkness fell; my 
only companion, although somewhat tamed, was still 
a savage, with all her wild, treacherous, cruel na- 
ture lying dormant in her breast ready to spring into 
life at any moment. I was heartily glad when our keel 
grated on the beach, and I saw father standing there 
with a lantern and a white anxious face. "Don't you 
ever go off with her again," he said sternly after we 
reached the house, "it isn't safe." And I never did, 
after dark. 

During the eight weeks we were there, never a day 
passed without a shower. It never thundered ; that is 
unknown in those regions, but it rained. Not only that, 
but it came down in bucketfuls. This is the way the 
storms ceme up : The day will be perfect until noon, 
when the sun is shining its hottest. Suddenly a small 
cloud darkens the sky and without any warning down 
comes the rain in great pattering drops. It never lasts 
over ten minutes, when the sun comes out fiercer than 
ever. I do not wonder that the natives go naked. This 
is only during the rainy season, which lasts six months. 
The other six, no rain falls at all. 

Among the many discomforts and dangers of life 
there, fever and ague rank first. Father contracted the 
disease while there and it clung to him for many years. 



192 DEOPS OP SPRAY * 

Sydney broke out with painful sores all over his poor 
little body, while I had three large running sores on my 
ankle. I had no shoes, and one of our men made me a 
pair of canvas, which were much better than none. We 
lost nearly all of our clothes and w T ere a sorry-looking 
lot when finally rescued. 



PROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 193 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

AN EARTHQUAKE — INCIDENTS OP SAVAGE LIFE. 

Never shall I forget my first experience of an earth- 
quake. One Sunday, the hottest I ever saw even in that 
climate of fearful heat, Polly and I went a short distance 
into the woods to gather mangoes. Not a breath of air 
was stirring, the leaves of the trees drooped and with- 
ered, and no soft note of the numberless birds disturbed 
the quiet repose. The air fairly quivered with the heat, 
while the atmosphere was tinged with a faint, very 
faint, thin blue vapor. Only the loud chirping of the in- 
sects was heard. I fairly gasped for breath, and a fierce 
lurid glitter seemed dancing before my eyes. 

After a short walk, we entered the cool, dim recesses 
of the wood. The interlacing branches shut out the 
burning heat of the sun and formed a delightfully green 
•shady bower. Close by lay a gigantic tree, uprooted, its 
roots fully eight feet from the ground. Running lightly 
along the trunk I was soon standing on the end of this 
root, where I stopped for a few minutes to rest. A few 



194 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

feet from me stood Polly busily gathering the ripe yel- 
low mangoes which she placed in a basket close by. 

Suddenly a low rumble filled the air, sounding like 
distant thunder, while the blue mist deepened and 
darkened. The rumble sounded louder and louder, and 
the next instant I found myself on the ground, which 
was rising and falling and trembling like the deck of a 
ship at sea, while all around us was a great swish, swish, 
as the trees bent and tossed and shook their branches 
against each other. "How did I feel? What were my 
sensations?" you ask. Well, I cannot tell you. A mist, 
dark, heavy, appalling, seemed rising before my eyes, 
shutting off my vision. I tried to rise, scream, in vain. 
No sound issued from my lips. I felt as though I were 
in the awful clutches of a hideous nightmare. 

It was soon over and I found myself lying flat on my 
back, gazing blankly up into the laughing face above 
me. The sun is shining, and I can still hear the sharp 
whir of the locust. Slowly I struggle to a sitting pos- 
ture, leaning my back against a friendly tree, for I feel 
weak and shaken. As soon as I can speak I say to 
Polly, who sits near and whose face is one broad grin 
"What has happened ?" "Him earthquake, much earth- 
quake, big," spreading out her arms very wide and still 
grinning expansively. "Ah ! an earthquake," I reply, 
my fears by no means allayed. "Do you have them 
often ?" "Oh yes," shrugging her shoulders, "two, tree 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 195 

times a day him come, sometime," she answered in her 
musical, broken English. That is enough for me. I 
rise hurriedly. "Come, Polly, let's go home, we've got 
enough mangoes," I say nervously, fearful of there being 
another shock. Silently Polly obeys, and we turn our 
steps homeward. 

"What are you laughing at ?" I ask sharply, as every 
now and then Polly's shining black face is overspread 
with a broad smile, her white teeth flashing into view. 

"Him tree shake missy down, so — " shaking her 
hand violently. Missy scared, berry scared. Him eyes 
look so," bulging out her eyes and putting on a look of 
abject terror, while peals of merry laughter echoed 
through the woods. I told her that she was perfectly 
right. I was scared. I also said I did not see anything 
to laugh at. 

When I reached the house, I told Mr. Craig about 
Polly's mirth. "Oh well," he answered, "earthquakes 
here are of such common occurrence that the natives do 
not mind them at all, and always make sport of those 
who do. Sometimes, though, when whole islands sink 
they are afraid. The heavier shocks are always ac- 
companied by a terrific storm." I thanked him and 
turned away. This one was heavy enough for me, and I 
devoutly hoped there would be no more. In this I was 
mistaken, as there were three more during our stay, 
though none so severe. 



196 DROPS OF SPRAY 

I will now give you a brief narrative of the habits of 
these natives. Much of it was told me by Mr. Craig,. 
who, having been there eighteen years and having mar- 
ried one of them, is as good authority as I know. Much 
of it also was seen by myself, and I hope it may prove 
interesting. 

These natives descended from the Papuan and Malay, 
and they resemble the former much more than the lat- 
ter. The men bleach the hair and go entirely naked 
with the exception of a clout. Neck, nose, ears, fore- 
head, arms and ankles, are loaded with ornaments, and 
some have rings through their noses; but the most com- 
mon ornament for this member is a tiny, pointed shell 
no larger round than a darning needle, in the shape of 
a curved horn. This is stuck in the fleshy part of the 
nose. Shells and beads, too, are much used. Iron and 
brass for this purpose are very much coveted and prized. 
When a ship is wrecked, every bit of iron and brass is 
removed, even the decks being hacked in order to get 
the ring-bolts. 

If I should tell you just how big things they could 
hang in their ears, you would raise your hands in horri- 
fied disbelief. I cannot blame you, for I wouldn't have 
believed it myself if I hadn't seen it. The men never 
wear either mustache or beard, but their faces are per- 
fectly smooth. The women, the ordinary women, go en- 
tirely naked until marriage, when a short fringe is- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 197 

worn reaching to the knee. The wife of a chief gener- 
ally wears a short red calico skirt. The women do not 
dye their hair, which is long and black and as straight as 
an Indian's. 

Boys at the age of twelve and fourteen shave their 
heads, leaving only a tuft above the forehead, one on the 
crown, and one at the nape of the neck, which gives 
them a most grotesque appearance. Both men and 
women smoke and chew the filthy betel nut. They are 
the most degraded of God's people, and have no redeem- 
ing traits. 

They worship no God. Missionaries have been sent 
to them; they killed and ate them. England has sent 
men-of-war there to subdue them. Hundreds rose, cap- 
tured the crews, murdered them, and burned their ships. 
They flung scorn and defiance in England's very face 
and derisively told her to send over some more big 
ships. They are treacherous, cruel, merciless. 

Let me relate to you one incident which has the merit 
of being strictly true and fully illustrates their fiendish 
nature. 

Once there was a bishop, who lived in London, a 
broad-minded, noble man, who took a great interest in 
the spiritual welfare of these natives. So interested was 
he that when the English government sent out the next 
survey ship he obtained permission to be one of the 
party. On his return, he brought with him the son of 



198 DB0PS OP SPEAY 

a great chief, a little fellow of ten years of age, whom 
he adopted and brought up as one of his own. He was 
a bright, winning, little fellow, and showed no savage 
traits, and in time became very dear to the good bishop. 
But, nevertheless, this boy, young as he was, had had the 
first lessons of cruelty implanted in his young heart. His 
father had often bound some unfortunate prisoner to a 
tree and taught him to pierce him with the deadly 
poisoned arrows until the victim hung limp and dying. 

All this had been told the bishop by the natives them- 
selves, but he thought that by taking him away from 
his associates and treating him kindly, the boy would 
forget all about his earlier life. He was sent to school, 
where he stood first in his classes ; then to college, 
where he studied for the ministry. He graduated with 
honors, able to speak several lauguages with ease, and 
was in short, a quiet, gentlemanly young fellow, who in 
spite of his dark skin was received in the best circles 
and by his winning and engaging manners won all 
hearts. Mr. Craig knew him well, and said he was a 
very handsome young man and no darker than a 
Spaniard. 

He wished to return to his people as a missionary, 
and, furthermore, it was the dearest wish of his kind 
benefactor's heart, for he thought he could be the means 
of letting the holy light of religion into their darkened 
minds. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 199 

The bishop accompanied him, and the trip was made 
in a government vessel. 

Arriving at the island, he was very eager to go at once 
on shore, where he found that his father had gone to war 
with a hostile tribe. At his request he was left on 
shore while the bishop returned to the vessel. 

Left alone among his people, what do you think this 
elegant young missionary did ? Do you think he fell 
on his knees and prayed God to give him strength and 
wisdom to teach the dusky people who crowded around 
him? Alas! no. Every savage instinct in him arose 
and crowded out his religion, his education, and his 
elegant manners. With a wild, exultant yell, off came 
the garb of civilization, and he stood once more be- 
fore them, naked, with his dark eyes filled with a blood- 
thirsty light. Hastily organizing a band of young war- 
riors, he hastened to join his father, and when morning 
dawned, he was miles on his way. 

The poor old bishop was almost broken-hearted when 
he learned of the base ingratitude, the fiendish nature 
of his almost son. When they returned, victorious, a 
week later, the bishop met them, and going up to the 
young man, he begged him with tears in his eyes to 
return on board with him. The young fiend mocked 
him and told him if he said another word, he would 
shut his mouth with poisoned arrows. So the poor old 
man, with bent head and tottering steps, turned sadly 



200 DEOPS OF SPEAY 

away and made his way to the boat. No sooner had 
they pushed off than — whizz, a shower of poisoned 
arrows flew among them, thrown with unerring- aim 
by the rascals on shore. The bishop was wounded 
in a dozen places, and eight hours later died in fear- 
ful agony, caused by the deadly poison ; but the last 
words that issued from his stiffened and purple lips 
were the tender and God-like words, "Tell him I for- 
give him." 

This young man continued his career of blood and 
war. Even the savages were appalled at his ferocity, 
bat a day of reckoning was at hand. When he reached 
the age of thirty he, with others of his tribe, visited 
Ugi. Just as he leaped out of his canoe to draw it 
away from the surf, quick as a flash, a monster shark 
pounced on him and bit a terrible gash in his thigh, 
tearing out a huge piece of quivering flesh. No effort 
was made to save him, and he bled to death a few 
hours later. Thus the death of the bishop was 
avenged. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 201 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

LIFE AT UGI. 

Many times had the life of Mr. Craig been threatened, 
but each time his wife had found it out and warned him 
in time. He seemed to bear a charmed life. During 
the eighteen years he had lived there, he had had six- 
teen different men, at different times, in partnership 
with him ; men who, for the sake of gold, were willing 
to take their very lives in their hands; willing to leave 
country, home and friends, and • perhaps in the end to 
meet with an agonizing death at the hands of blood- 
thirsty savages. Not one of them ever got away alive. 
Every one was murdered by the savages. 

Right back of the house stood a tall breadfruit tree, 
where in the dead of night the last partner was dragged 
from his bed and slowly tortured to death. Around 
him danced the howling, shrieking savages, now cutting 
thin slices from his quivering flesh, now searing it with 
red-hot irons. When their victim was nearly dead, 
they quickly ended their work by piling fagots arOund 



202 DROPS OF SPRAT 

him and burning; him. In his room, bound and helpless, 
unable to render the slightest assistance, all through 
that long and terrible night lay Mr. Craig listening to 
the heartrending cries of agony of his unfortunate 
partner. 

He had been there now so many years that he was, 
in reality, quite a power among them, and therefore 
comparatively safe. 

The young German, Schemp by name, was a skilful 
taxidermist, and he taught mother his trade. She was 
an apt scholar, aud in a short time could stuff a bird 
as well as he could. She brought home two large 
boxes of rare and beautiful birds, which father shot. She 
has them yet. 

When a marriage takes place it is always attended 
with great pomp and ceremony. The groom purchases 
his bride from her father. Several whole pigs are 
roasted, and the natives from all the surrounding is- 
lands are invited ; but no white people are allowed to be 
present, and Mr. Craig had never yet attended one. 

They celebrated a marriage on Ugi during our stay, 
on the further side of the bay. There were fully two 
hundred large canoes, loaded with guests, who came 
from the neighboring islands. 

Mr. Craig possessed a small electric battery, with 
which he has played many a trick upon the unsuspect- 
ing natives. There were nearly always a lot of them 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 203 

hanging idly around. Mr. Craig would bring his battery- 
out, usually on the veranda, and would then fill a pail 
with water and in the bottom would lay either a bright, 
shining coin, a string of bright-colored beads, or even 
a common clay pipe. Placing one of the battery 
handles in the pail, he would give the other to one 
of the natives, telling him if he could pick the coveted 
article out of the pail, it was his. Grinning with de- 
light, the native would obey. Just as his hand touched 
the water, Mr. Craig would turn on a strong current 
when there followed such a howling and such contortions 
and spasmodic, ridiculous movements as one seldom 
sees. They were loth to give it up and would stand 
it as long as they possibly could. I have laughed 
until the tears rolled down my cheeks at their absurd 
antics. Sometimes they succeeded in getting the pres- 
ent, but most often not ; but the others would all want 
to try it once, although they never asked to a second time. 
When the fun was all over, the article was presented 
to one of them. 

One day a party of warlike savages visited us. They 
came from San Christoval, where they had just fought 
a fierce battle with the natives, and come off victorious. 
They had killed nearly all of their prisoners, but among 
those they had saved was a little maiden, not over ten 
years of age, a plump, pretty child, with the blackest, 
brightest eyes I ever saw. We were informed that she 



204 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

was to be killed and eaten by her savage captors 
that very night. 

Like a flash, as I write, comes over me the sickening 
feeling that I felt then, as I gazed at the poor little 
creature who seemed so unconscious of her fate. It was 
more than the tender heart of Mr. Craig could stand, 
so for a few presents he bought her and presented her 
to his wife as a nurse-maid, thinking perhaps she might 
be useful in minding the baby. As she was brought in, 
Mr. Craig noticed a small, deep gash in her right side, 
from which the red blood slowly oozed. He asked one 
of her captors how that happened. He coolly replied 
that that was where they had stabbed her, as they in- 
tended to kill her before they left San Christoval, but 
afterward decided to keep her until they arrived home. 
"We named her Topsy. 

The cut soon healed, and then no monkey was more 
mischievous than she. All efforts to teach her anything 
seemed futile, and her only two redeeming traits were 
her sunny disposition and her great love for the baby. 
Never while we remained there did I ever see her bright, 
merry face disfigured by a frown. 

Another thing which was a source of great delight to 
the natives was Mr. Craig's music box, as they are all 
passionately fond of music. They would stand around 
and gaze at it with awe-filled faces as it ground out the 
tunes at a lively measure. "Yankee Doodle" was their 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 205 

prime favorite, and they would dance and shuffle their 
feet, a broad grin spreading over their black faces. 
Just think of it. A little music box playing the dear fa- 
miliar tunes out in the very heart of the South Pacific 
to a merry band of savages. 

We had some very good singers among our crew, the 
majority of which were English and nearly all quite 
young, mere boys of twenty-two or three. One of them 
at one time figured as "Comical Brown" in a third-rate 
variety show in London. He was a fine singer. Mr. 
Craig had a fine-toned accordion, and every evening the 
men would gather under a big mango tree in front of the 
house and favor us with a free concert. The music was 
very enjoyable as we sat on the veranda enjoying the 
cool breeze after the withering heat of the day. 

Every afternoon, just before sunset, mother and 1 
would take baby and enjoy a cool refreshing bath in the 
brook which flowed close by. Father used to go either 
fishing or gunning every day, in order to keep the table 
well supplied. On these trips he was accompanied by 
an old native, who had spent many years in the Sand- 
wich Islands and could speak English very well. When 
they went fishing he would cheerfully dive for the fish 
which lay stunned on the bottom. He always knew 
where all the best game could be found. There is noth- 
ing better than a metallic pigeon nicely stewed, and they 
really comprised the "game." 



206 DROPS OF SPRAY 

One day father took his gun as usual and struck off- 
into the woods. His guide was away and could not ac- 
company him, so he went alone. Hours passed, and he 
did not return. Darkness settled swiftly down, still no 
signs of father. We were almost wild with anxiety as 
the minutes dragged by, and our minds were filled with 
the most horrible forebodings. Nine o'clock — half 
past — and at last we hear footsteps slowly mount up the 
veranda. It is he at last, but wounded. 

It seems he was pushing his way hurriedly through 
the tangled undergrowth, not minding his steps as his 
eyes were fixed on a fine lot of plump pigeons some dis- 
tance ahead. He came suddenly out on the high steep 
bank of a brook. He lost his balance and fell with 
much force, as he was quite heavy, in such a manner as 
to drive a sharp pointed stick in between two of his toes, 
cutting a deep gash. It bled freely, and it was with 
great difficulty he managed to get home. 

In that climate a mere scratch is often very dangerous 
as gangrene usually sets in. Father's foot swelled to 
twice its natural size and turned almost black, and 
and pained him so that he was unable to sleep nights. 
He suffered much, but as soon as he could hobble around 
on crutches, he continued his hunting. 

Sometimes the mate would take the long-boat and six 
of the men and go across to San Christoval after fruit ; 
which was much more plentiful there than on Ugi. They 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 20T 

would return with great quantities of figs, bananas, or- 
anges and a number of other varieties, some of which I 
had never seen before and did not learn the names of. 

I think the mango the most delicious of all tropical 
fruits. As for cocoanuts, I very rarely tasted one unless 
it was very green. It would be dangerous in the ex- 
treme to eat very heartily of the ripe nuts as they are so 
indigestible. This father tried to impress on the crew 
at the earliest opportunity, and they all heeded the 
warning except a young German. When we first ar- 
rived there he was heard to remark enthusiastically as 
he gazed around on the numerous cocoanut trees, "I 
never had enough of those nuts yet, but now I'll bet I 
eat my fill." "Better not," replied one of the men, 
"you know the captain's orders." But the poor fellow 
could not resist the temptation, and he hied away to a 
secluded spot and ate ten cocoanuts, or at least he said 
he did. But he never ate any more; he had got his 
"fill," and the next morning he lay muttering to himself 
in the burning clutches of the fever. He did not die, as 
his strong constitution saved him, but he did not leave 
his bed until he was Garried, weak and helpless, worn to 
a mere skeleton, on board the man-of-war. 

About three weeks before we were rescued our cook 
struck, declaring he would work no longer for nothing. 
Of course when the Illie was wrecked the pay of all the 
crew stopped, but for all that, they were subject to 



208 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

father's authority and obliged to obey him, and he kept 
them busy, too, thus keeping them cheerful and con- 
tented, "for Satan hath some mischief still for idle 
hands to do," and sailors are such peculiar people, 
take them as a whole, that if unwisely left to their 
own devices they might have attempted mutiny. None 
of them, however, gave any trouble with the exception of 
the cook. We were in a quandary. Mrs. Craig did the 
cooking when they were alone, but of course she could 
not do it for so many. In. this crisis, "Comical Brown," 
as we called him, came forward and offered his services 
with the remark, "If I can't beat that old curmudgeon 
cooking, why then I'll give it up". His offer was accept- 
ed with alacrity and he was soon installed, and we found 
that he was a fine cook and, more than that, was as neat 
as wax. He could make a dainty dish out of nothing, as 
one might say, and after he took the lead we had more 
variety andthe food was better served. We all agreed 
it was a pity that the cook had not struck sooner. 

Thus the days passed, each one a repetition of the 
preceding one, until nearly eight weeks had gone by. 
We were daily expecting a vessel but none came, and 
our hearts grew sick with hope deferred, and day by day 
our baby grew paler and drooped more and more under 
the pitiless sun. Indeed, we felt that if help did not 
come soon, the poor little fellow would die. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 209 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

H. M. S. LARK — OUR RESCUE. 

One Sunday morning, just before breakfast, I lay in 
the hammock and my mind went back to that far distant 
home in bonny Milbridge and I wondered if we ever 
should live to reach it. As I lay there with my eyes 
closed, 1 went over again the happy scenes of my child- 
hood. Oh, if this horribly splendid island, with its 
burning sun, its luxuriant, moist vegetation, its cloying 
fruits, its brilliantly plumaged birds, and its naked sav- 
ages, were but a dream from which I could awake and 
find myself back at home, with the cool breezes of the 
sea fanning my burning brow, with the dear home faces 
surrounding me ! 

From within I could hear the voice of Sydney crying 
feebly and pitifully, and with a choking sob bursting 
from* my heart, I prayed the dear Lord to rescue us 
from this living death ere it was too late. 

Suddenly a great commotion arose among the men 
grouped upon the beach. "A ship ! A ship ! Hurrah !" 



210 DROPS OP SPRAY 

rose ill a deafening shout. "Bill" came rushing from 
the cook-house with a "spider" in his hand, in which he 
was skillfully tossing a huge pan-cake, composed of the 
last remnant of the meal. The rest of us, too, went 
down, and there, sure enough, just rounding the point 
was the low, black hull of a survey man-of-war with the 
English flag flying at her peak. 

We were almost delirious with joy and deafening 
cheers rent the air, while mother and I hugged each 
other and laughed and cried in a breath. Slowly and 
gracefully the vessel glided along until just opposite, 
when splash went her anchor, and she swung easily at 
her moorings. We could hardly keep our eyes off the 
trim little craft, for she was to be our deliverance. 
Presently a natty little boat was lowered, the side ladder 
placed in position and the captain and first lieutenant in 
full uniform, glittering with gold lace, took their places 
and in a short time stood on the* beach. 

The captain, who was a fine, distinguished-looking 
man by the name of Oldham, listened amazed to our 
story of hardship and peril, and there were tears in his 
fine blue eyes at its conclusion, as he warmly assured 
us that our exile was at an end. 

His vessel was employed by the government to sur- 
vey the islands. She was three hundred twenty tons 
burden, carrying six guns and a crew of twenty-five 
ordinary seamen. She was to carry us back to Bris- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 211 

bane, and arrangements were made to start the follow- 
ing Wednesday. 

When Captain Oldham learned how ill Sydney was, 
he sent his boat quickly back after the surgeon. He 
was a kindly, genial man, and he prescribed for Sydney, 
as well as for our sick sailor, and very soon a change 
for the better could be discerned. 

How happy we were that afternoon as we sat down 
to a table of dainties, as they seemed to us, sent off 
from the Lark ! What tasted the best of all was the 
beautiful snowy loaves of bread, a dozen of which were 
.sent. For five weeks not a morsel of bread had we seen. 

Monday morning a large trading brig arrived with a 
load of supplies, so we fared royally during the re- 
mainder of our stay. I had no shoes, as my canvas 
ones were worn to shreds, and I do not really know 
what I should have done had not a pair of rubber 
tennis shoes been found among the Lark's stores. 

At last the morning fixed for our departure arrived. 
At an early hour we went on board, and so perverse is 
human nature, that a lingering regret actually came 
over me as I gazed on shore at the beautiful yet horrible 
Lspot that for eight weary weeks had been my home. 
Both Polly and Mrs. Craig stood on the beach with the 
children clinging around them as we glided slowly from 
view. Mr. Craig was with us, as he had long been 
wanting to visit civilization once more, and, as the Lark 



212 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

would return immediately, such a rare opportunity must 
not be thrown away. So there he was standing among 
the men at the bow, waving his handkerchief to his 
dusky wife and babies. 

"We found the Lark to be a trim, staunch little craft, 
with much finer accommodations than are ever found on 
a merchant vessel, no matter what her size. She car- 
ried no cargo, and two-thirds of her below decks was 
cabin. Like all English vessels, she had no house on 
deck, but it was all below, entered by a small compan- 
ion-way. There were plenty of port-holes and a large 
sky-light which admitted an amount of light and air. 
Her decks were snowy white, and every bit of brass-work 
shone resplendent in the bright sun. The sailors all 
wore the neat blue uniform of the English marines,, 
while the officers paced the deck in their glittering uni- 
forms of scarlet and gold. It was all novel and delight- 
ful to me. I had always had a great desire to make a. 
voyage on a man-of-war, and now my wish would, in a 
measure, be gratified. 

I will give you a brief description of our most comfort- 
able quarters. As you entered the cabin from the after- 
part, you traversed a narrow passage, on each side of 
which were four staterooms and the bath-room with half 
ground- glass doors. Next was the dining saloon. It' 
was very long and just the width of the vessel, with a. 
large extension table at one end. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 213 

The saloon was finished in white, with clusters of pale 
pink rosebuds painted on the panels. The floor was 
covered with rich crimson tapestry, while the seats were 
upholstered in crimson velvet. At each end of the 
room a gilded lamp, suspended with silver chains, 
swung from the ceiling, while over the table hung a 
long carved rack filled with slender colored glasses, 
which sparkled and flashed when the lamplight fell on 
them. Near the table was a glittering sideboard and 
just opposite a large French mirror, let into the pan- 
els, reflected the whole fairylike scene. Separated from 
this saloon by heavy portieres of crimson plush, was 
the captain's cabin, which was fully as large and fitted 
up luxuriously. This was courteously placed at our 
disposal. 

They lived luxuriously on board, the table being al- 
ways laden with a great variety, nicely cooked. True to 
the English custom, the principal meal was the seven 
o'clock dinner, which consisted of several courses. Now 
you have a faint idea of the Lark. 

She was a fast sailer, schooner-rigged, and in a short 
time we had left Ugi far behind, and were soon clear of 
the islands, out upon the open sea. We had a fine 
breeze, and the gallant little Lark leaped and plunged 
through the sparkling waves, sending up the spray in 
glittering diamond drops, which sometimes fell with a 
smart swish across the decks. Mother and I sat on deck 



214 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

breathing in new life with every breath of the salt, cool 
air, while our prison home lay many miles behind us, a 
mere blue mist on the horizon, which by dark had faded 
completely away. 

It seemed like living again, when we went down to 
dinner. The long table covered with its snowy linen, 
glittering with its cut glass and silver, and laden with 
with choice steaming viands, was a sight that had not 
gladdened our eyes for many weary weeks. We were 
waited on by the head steward, who, adorned with a 
snowy cap and apron, did the duties quietly and skilfully. 

After all had finished, the food was removed, and the 
walnuts, wine, and tiny sweet biscuits were placed be- 
foreus, over which, when the weather was fine, the party 
lingered long, cracking nuts and relating stories of 
daring adventures; and vastly interesting they were too. 
It was the pleasantest part of the day to me. 1 was al- 
ways interested in the drill which took place every after- 
noon with military precision at exactly four o'clock. 
Capt. Oldham gave me permission to attend whenever I 
wished, and I rarely missed one. As the weather was so 
very warm we preferred the deck to the cabin during 
the day. 

We had one heavy gale about a week after our de- 
parture and were obliged to lay to under a storm trysail 
for three days. I did not go out into the saloon while it 
lasted, except to my meals, but spent my time in my 



PROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 215 

berth reading. The Lark had a fine library of choice 
books and we had free access to it, which was a great 
treat tome. During the voyage I first read that beauti- 
ful story, so full of love and pathos, so full of bravery, 
"The Scottish Chiefs." How ray childish heart throbbed 
with pity for the hero, Sir William Wallace. For me, 
there was fully as much pain and sorrow when I read 
that book as there was of pleasure. 

A few days before our arrival in Brisbane, the men 
got up a concert, with the captain's permission, and as 
the Lark carried a full brass band, this was not difficult. 
Two days before the performance, written handbills were 
passed around. At sea, every little break in the monot- 
ony is welcomed with joy, and this occasion was no ex- 
ception. When the ■eventful evening arrived we all took 
seats on the quarter-deck, camp chairs having been 
brought from the cabin and arranged in a semicircle. 
Lanterns were hung conveniently near, and also a dozen 
torch-lights brought into requisition, thus affording an 
abundance of light, for it took place in the evening. All 
of the best speakers and singers of both crews had been 
selected and carefully drilled, the band played its best, 
and it was in fact a very creditable performance indeed. 
So said Capt. Oldham, who seemed to enjoy it with as 
keen zest as I did myself. When it was over, refresh- 
ments were served, and a very enjoyable evening was the 
general verdict as we repaired to our rooms. 



216 DROPS OF SPRAY 

The voyage came to an end all too soon, and when 
four days later we came in sight of our destination, I 
was really sorry. We signalled a pilot, and with a good 
breeze soon reached our anchorage in the harbor of 
Brisbane. 

Capt. Oldham was to remain a week, and cordially in- 
vited us to make the Lark our home until we were ready 
to embark for Sydney. We thanked him and remained 
a few days and got what we could in Brisbane in the 
way of clothing, hats and shoes, as we all needed them. 
Our men all went on shore immediately, however, and 
shipped in other vessels, while our patient, still very low, 
was transferred to a hospital. Brisbane being such a 
small place we could not obtain half what was needed, 
so were obliged to wait until we reached Sydney before 
completing our purchases. 

Three days later we bade adieu to our kind friends 
and took passage in the steamer Egmont for Sydney. 
She was large and roomy, and we were given a nice 
double stateroom outside, where we could have plen- 
ty of air. 

There were a great number of passengers on board, 
and it was soon noised around that we were a ship- 
wrecked party returning home, although father had told 
no one but the captain. Their curiosity being aroused, 
the passengers must need know all the particulars, and 
to make matters worse, there was a reporter on board 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 217 

\ 

from Sydney, who was employed by the Evening Star, 
which was the largest daily paper than printed in that 
city. He interviewed father, who gave him an accurate^ 
account of our experience. As for myself, as soon as 1 
ventured to go on deck, I was seized upon and besieged 
by questioners who begged me to tell them all the par- 
ticulars of our shipwreck, and if I told it once, I told it 
twenty times in the course of the day, and was heartily 
sick of so much attention. In pure self-defence I finally 
retired to my stateroom and did not appear again except 
to my meals. What made it so interesting to them was 
the fact of our being cast away in such a dangerous lo- 
cality, where so many ships had been lost, but so few 
people saved to tell the tale. 

As the Egmont arrived at her dock very early in the 
morning we did not stop to breakfast on board, but went 
directly on shore and took a cab to a restaurant. Here 
my parents laid plans for the future while discussing an 
excellent breakfast. We learned that the, mail liner 
"Zembia" started at noon for San Francisco, but they 
both agreed that our wardrobes needed a thorough re- 
plenishing before we left Sydney, and, besides, Sydney 
was very weak and ill yet, and we wished to have him 
get well before starting on another long journey, so it 
was decided to wait a month for the next steamer. 

The next question that arose was, where should we 
stay ? Although we had many pleasant friends in town, 



218 ' DROPS OF SPRAY 

still father did not feel like inflicting ourselves on any of 
them for so long a time, and to offer to pay for our board 
would be taken as a direct insult. On the other hand, 
if any of them knew we were so near and did not make 
them a visit, they would be equally offended. 

Father thought that he saw a way out of the difficulty. 
We would go to some nice quiet hotel, in the suburbs, 
and live a very secluded life during our stay and avoid 

meeting any of them. But "Man proposes ." Just 

as we arose from the table the door swung open and 
who should appear but Mr. Roberts himself, very much 
flushed and heated. He advanced with outstretched 
hand, saying laughingly: "Such a chase as* you have 
given me, but I was bound to find you." After greet- 
ings had been exchanged and he had congratulated us 
upon our escape from the savages, we asked him how he 
knew we were in the city, as we knew our story would 
not appear in the papers until night. 

It seemed he had a little business to transact with 
the captain of the Egmont and we had just left when he 
reached the wharf. In the course of their conversation, 
the captain mentioned our shipwreck, and Mr. Roberts, 
who knew that our vessel was long overdue, made in- 
quiries and learned the full particulars. Thinking we 
might feel a sensitiveness in accepting his hospitality, he 
at once set to work to find us, which was not very diffi- 
cult. He cordially invited us to make Crescent Cottage 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 219 

our home during our stay, and as lie would not take no 
for an answer, we accepted his generous invitation. 

Father had a great deal of business to see to in town 
so he and Mr. Brown did not go out to Ashfield until 
night. Mrs. Roberts was at home, and nearly fainted 
when she saw us coming, as she had not learned we were 
in town, but she welcomed us warmly and with great 
cordiality. 

Crescent Cottage, their home, was about half a mile 
from the depot and a very pretty place, surrounded by a 
fine lawn and gardens. I noticed that nearly all the 
houses in the suburbs of Sydney were built in the "cot- 
tage" style, and each one had its name over the front 
door instead of numbers. I think it a very pretty 
custom. 

We were very thankful to find ourselves once more 
with a comfortable roof over our heads and solid earth 
under our feet, as one might say, for I did not consider 
Ugi solid earth, as it was so frequently shaken by earth- 
quakes. How good the soft beds felt to our tired bodies 
which for ten weeks had slept on cocoanut husks and 
the hard berths of the Lark ! To be able to lie in a 
sweet, clean bed once more in a large, cool apartment, 
seemed luxury indeed. 



220 DROPS OF SPRAY 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

OUR LIFE IN SYDNEY. 

I do not wish to dwell at length on our life here, but 
will mention a few incidents. Perhaps it may interest 
some of my readers to know how the people live so I 
will try to tell you as briefly as I can. 

Mr. Roberts was a typical Colonial gentleman, no dif- 
ferent from hundreds of others out there. Although 
fairly well to do, he was by no means rich, being what 
you might call a self-made man, and still young. He 
had been married about two years. Mrs. Roberts kept 
one servant, a stout, good-natured Irish girl by the name 
of Sarah, who did the housework and minded D'Arcy, 
their little son. Both the washing and ironing were put 
out. In Austrailia, instead of ironing their common, 
every-day clothes, they have them mangled and iron 
only the starched and fine clothes. Mrs. Roberts also 
bought baker's bread entirely, as did nearly every one 
there, and delicious bread it was too. Our coming 
would, therefore, make very little difference to her as 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 221 

far as the work was concerned, and I helped Sarah 
do that. 

It was now their winter, and the weather was delight- 
ful, the days being warm and the nights just cool enough 
to be comfortable. The air seemed delicious after the 
terrible heat of the south seas. 

Mrs. Roberts had a lovely flower garden, through 
which ran gravel walks, and in which grew many rare 
and beautiful flowers, the like of which I had never seen 
before. There were great beds of fragrant mignonette , 
large purple violets, stately lilies, and hundreds of other 
flowers of brilliant color and rare fragrance. There were 
none I admired so much as the tall bushes of red and 
white camelias, whose petals look as if carved in wax. 
The camelia has no perfume, yet it was my favorite. I 
am very fond of flowers, and every morning, before the 
dew was off, would find me taking a stroll in the garden, 
stopping every now and then to look at some new beauty 
that had unfolded during the night, or to inhale the deli- 
cate fragrance of others. 

I wish to say a word in regard to the food eaten in 
Sydney at that time, and how it was cooked. Green 
corn, or in fact, corn in any form, even as meal, is never 
used as an article of food. Some use it for their stock, 
though beans are given the preference. The latter, as 
well as peas, are never used as food, and they are con- 
sidered fit only for the horses and sheep. That delect- 



222 DROPS OF SPRAY 

able dish, baked beans and brown bread, is unknown there. 

I used to tell my young friend, Ella, what fun it was 
to pop corn, and how nice it was when done, and she 
flatly refused to believe that corn could pop. As none 
could be obtained to convince her, that problem had to 
remain, for her, unsolved. 

They have a white, tasteless vegetable called vegetable 
marrow, which they steam and serve as we serve squash. 
It looks somewhat like a squash, too, only it is much 
smaller. Pumpkin cut in long strips and baked brown 
is a favorite dish. The potatoes were the largest and best 
I ever tasted, and are generally mashed and mixed thick- 
ly with finely-chopped parsley. They consume a great 
quantity of meat, the English roast beef being more in 
demand than any other kind. What we call pies they 
designate as tarts, while what they call pie is made as 
follows: A deep pudding dish is lined with pastry, 
then filled with some variety of fruit, sweetened, fla- 
vored, and a top crust put on. It is then baked and 
served hot. This is the favorite dessert. Cake is rare- 
ly seen, but marmalade and jam hold places of honor. 

Breakfast always began with porridge, as they call it, 
made of certain cereals, either wheat or oats ; dinner, 
with soup, followed by other courses, and for supper, 
thin slices of meat, bread and butter and marmalade 
were what they generally had. 

An abundance of all kinds of delicious fruit may be 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 223 

had there for a mere song. I must except the apple, 
however, which is seldom in the market. Those you see 
are invariably wrapped in tissue paper, as we see oranges 
here in Maine, and sold for sixpence each, which means 
twelve cents of our money. The big yellow apple was 
all the variety I ever saw there, and they were dry and 
absolutely tasteless, from being brought so far to market. 

Candy goes by the name of lolly in Australia, and it 
was a long time before I could calihly enter a confec- 
tioner's shop and ask for a sixpence's worth of lolly with 
out feeling my face grow scarlet. It sounded so inex- 
pressibly silly, although Ella assured me that to them 
"candy" sounded just as odd. 

What are called by the majority of people in New 
England red bananas, are known as plantains there and 
are never eaten raw, but are pared, sliced, or cut in 
halves, fried a delicate brown and served with steak or 
chops, and they make a pleasant relish. 

As for the people of Australia, so far as my acquaint- 
ance went, I can describe them in three words, kindly, 
hospitable and courteous. 



224 DROPS OF SPRAY 



CHAPTER XXX. 

THE QUEEN'S BIRTHDAY. 

I believe I have stated that Ella was a sister to Mrs. 
Roberts. She used to come to see me often. She was 
very anxious for me to spend a few days with her and 
stay over the Queen's birthday, which is celebrated 
much the same as we celebrate the fourth of July, minus 
the "horribles." To my great delight, I obtained the de- 
sired permission, and we departed for the train in 
high glee. 

Ella's home was on Hill street, Surry hills, and 
although right in the city, was a beautiful place. 
From the piazza a fine view of the bay was obtained. 

It still lacked two days of the fete, which time was 
spent in visiting the museum, the public library, and 
some of the beautiful parks, under the escort of Ella's 
older brother. The birthday of their beloved Queen 
dawned bright and fair, and at an early hour all Sydney 
was astir. It was like any gala day. There was an ex- 
cursion down the bay for those who wished to go ; races? 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 225 

a cricket match, and numerous other attractions. The 
streets were thronged with people, gaily dressed ; sol- 
diers, in their uniforms of scarlet and gold ; children 
munching peanuts and lolly ; while the band discoursed 
lively music, and fire-crackers popped incessantly. Ev- 
erybody appeared to be happy and wine flowed freely, 
as did other, stronger beverages, but still there were 
fewer drunken men than are usually seen here at home 
on such a day. 

In the evening there was to be a grand display of fire- 
works in the public gardens, to which we were intending 
to go; but as night fell a cold, heavy mist rolled in from 
the sea, and it was so damp that Mrs. Kippax did not 
think it prudent for Ella to go as she was rather deli- 
cate. To partially make amends for our disappointment, 
however, Mr. Kippax bought twenty dollars' (four 
pounds) worth of fireworks to set off in their own gar- 
den, and we were satisfied. 

The next morning I returned to Ashfield well pleased 
with my first experience of an English holiday. The 
month passed quickly away ; and one evening when Mr. 
Roberts and father came in they informed us that the 
"City of Sydney" had arrived. 

This was the ship that we had been waiting for, and, 
although I had had a pleasant time and would leave 
many pleasant, kind friends behind, still they were not 
my people, their ways were not our ways, and I longed 



226 DROPS OF SPRAY 

for home. I longed once more to hear the dear familiar 
Yankee tongue. So it was with feelings of keen delight 
that I realized that we would soon in very truth be 
homeward bound. 

The day of our departure dawned clear and cloudless, 
the heavens bending above us a deep clear blue, reflect- 
ed in the sparkling waters of the bay, whose tiny waves 
danced and shimmered in the bright sunlight. Mr. and 
Mrs. Roberts, as well as Ella, accompanied us to 
the ship. 

When we arrived at the wharf, we found the little 
tender puffing and snorting noisily as she bobbed up and 
down alongside, already crowded with passengers, but 
we managed to squeeze in and off we went. 

Off in the harbor, with the black smoke from her 
smokestacks rolling lazily up, loomed the immense 
black hull of the "City of Sydney." The tender looked 
a mere speck beside her as we ranged alongside under 
the platform of the side steps. We mounted to the 
promenade deck and sat down where we could watch the 
novel scene around us. and have a quiet chat. 

It yet lacked an hour of the time set for our departure, 
and there were many things that we wanted to say at 
the last minute. In the meantime the tender went puff- 
ing busily to and from the wharf bringing off the re- 
mainder of the passengers. On its last trip shoreward 
it carried all those who wished to go. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 227 

The strong, but invisible line which is drawn between 
rich and poor is nowhere so forcibly illustrated as on 
one of these big ocean liners, where so many different 
classes of people are represented. For instance, the 
steerage, and even the second cabin passengers, are not 
allowed to appear on the promenade deck nor in the sa- 
loons, but their place was on the lower decks. On the 
other hand, none of the first-class passengers care to 
visit those decks. So, although I spent four weeks in 
this steamship, I could not tell you how they lived in 
the steerage or second cabin, nor how many of them 
there were, nor anything about them, but we were as far 
removed, so to speak, as though leagues instead of a few 
feet divided us. 

I at once decided that life on board one of these float- 
ing palaces, as they are rightly named, would be one 
long dream of delight, nor was I mistaken. The scene 
around us was very animated, and also very noisy, but 
still there was perfect discipline through it all. As soon 
as the passengers were all on board, the live stock which 
would be consumed during the voyage, was towed off in 
lighters and hoisted on board. There were ten large, 
fat oxen, several cows to furnish fresh milk, and thirty 
sheep, beside several hundred hens and piles of fresh 
fruit and vegetables. The last ox was killed the day 
before we arrived in San Francisco, so there were none 
too many. 



228 DROPS OF SPRAY 

There were three hundred and sixty first cabin passen- 
gers on board when we left Sydney. The harbor was 
looking its best. On either side stretched the fair,, 
verdant shores, dotted with white houses. The dear old 
stars and stripes fluttered gaily from the flagstaff, and 
all things seemed set to the tune of "Home, Sweet Home." 
Quite near us lay an immense steamship with the smoke 
rolling from her stacks. She was gaily decked in bright 
colored bunting, while from her stern floated the English 
Colonial flag. Gaily dressed people stood in knots on 
her decks, while we could see a brass band stationed 
among them. She was literally surrounded with small 
craft of all descriptions. Presently her bell sounded its 
warning note, her screw began churning the water into 
foam, while the band struck up the familiar air, "God 
Save the Queen," and she moved slowly and majestic- 
ally down the bay, while enthusiastic shouts filled the 
air. Thinking there must be something out of common 
in the wild enthusiasm, I turned to Mr. Roberts. 

"Pardon me," I asked, interrupting his conversation,, 
"but will you tell me what ship that is ?" "That is the 
Australasia," he replied. "When you were here last she 
was- at the bottom of the bay, with very little hope of 
saving her. Various methods were employed to raise 
her, and a vast amount of money spent, but without suc- 
cess. Finally an enterprising Yankee undertook the job,, 
and you see before you the result. She was raised,. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 229 

thoroughly renovated, and is today making a short trial 
trip down the harbor." I thanked him and turned to 
watch the big steamship with renewed interest until she 
disappeared around a bend. Presently the great bell 
close to us gave out its short, warning clang. Instantly 
there was a rush for the tender that lay bobbing up and 
down alongside. A close, clinging embrace with Mrs. 
Roberts and Ella, a hearty handshake with Mr. Roberts, 
a hurried, tearful good-bye and "God bless you," and we 
were watching through tear-dimmed eyes the friends 
who had shown us such unremitting kindness, as they 
were carried swiftly shoreward. In all probability we 
shall never see them more, but still they will ever remain 
to us a tender memorv. 



230 DEOPS OF SPRAY 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

A FLOATING PALACE. 

Presently the whistle blew with a hoarse, reverber- 
ating sound ; a tinkle of bells far below, the screw began 
to revolve and we were fairly off. My joy at the 
thought of going home was so great as to be almost 
painful, while I was more than content with our present 
luxurious quarters. I will try to describe this ship, 
which is a facsimile of many others, for the 
benefit of those who have, perhaps, never been 
on one of these mail steamers. 

The promenade deck ran fore and aft, and was a 
beautiful place on which to take a stroll. Midway was 
the saloon called the social hall, and farther forward was 
another small cabin containing the captain's and first 
officer's quarters, besides one or two staterooms. Well 
aft, a short flight of steps led down to a fine large smok- 
ing room, situated on the middle deck. 

The social hall is lighted by rows of plate glass win- 
dows, and a door on each side opens on to the deck. 



FEOM SOUTHEEN SEAS. 231 

The floor is covered with a soft, bright carpet of the 
richest Brussels. Running; along the sides of the room 
are seats, upholstered in crimson velvet. From the ceil- 
ing depend three large chandeliers of incandescent lights 
and at one end stands an elegant upright piano ; at the 
other a large bookcase of choice books. From the cen- 
ter a wide, carved staircase leads down to the mid- 
dle saloon. 

The woodwork in all the saloons is very dark and 
rich and highly polished, relieved by the crimson fur- 
nishings. 

The middle saloon is much like the social hall. At 
one end runs a long, narrow corridor, lined on either 
side with staterooms. Still another grand staircase 
leads to the dining saloon, which is magnificent in its 
appointments. Running back from it is another cor- 
ridor lined with staterooms, while at each end was a 
large double stateroom, one of which we occupied. At 
the farther end was the bath room and lavatory. Port- 
holes admit light and air into this saloon in fair weather, 
but in rough weather it is dark, as tliey are below 
the water-line. 

Three long tables extend the entire length of the 
dining saloon, presided over by the captain, the first 
officer and the doctor. Over each were suspended 
swinging racks of beautifully carved black walnut, filled 
with delicate colored glasses. At each end of this sa- 



232 DROPS OF SPRAY 

loon large French mirrors Were sunk into the panels, 
under which were the elegant sideboards glittering with 
silver and glass. 

At the seven o'clock dinner, when the electric lights 
are turned on, it is truly a fairylike scene. The state- 
rooms arc so very like that in describing one I describe 
them all. One side of our stateroom is occupied by two 
large double berths, before which hang in graceful folds 
snowy curtains of finest lace. A soft carpet covers the 
floor. At the opposite side stands a plush-covered couch. 
In the center is a marble wash-stand with its silver fau- 
cets with hot and cold water. Over it hung the ship's 
rules and regulations, framed neatly in black walnut. 
The stateroom is lighted by the port-hole by day, and 
by night one tiny incandescent globe. 

Although the City of Sydney was an American ship, 
yet its meals were served on the European plan. At 
six in the morning coffee was served in the staterooms 
for those who wished it ; at eight, breakfast in the saloon ; 
at one, luncheon; at seven, dinner, at which the ladies 
appeared in ravishing evening toilets, many of them 
ablaze with diamonds, while the gentlemen would be in 
conventional evening dress. At half past eight tea and 
cakes were served. 

We were waited upon by fifty Chinese and three white 
men in snowy caps and aprons, who were thoroughly 
skilful in their art. When we were seated, a menu card 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 233 

would be placed in our hands, and on it was everything 
that could be asked for. No swell hotel on Fifth Ave- 
nue can show a more elaborate bill of fare than do these 
great ocean steamships. 

The long snowy tables, glittering with their cut glass 
and silver; the fair ladies in their rich dresses, sparkling 
with jewels; the sweet-perfumed air; the swift-footed 
waiters, moving noiselessly about, every movement re- 
flected in the immense mirrors ; the soft, subdued hum 
of refined conversation, broken occasionally by a burst 
of silvery laughter ; over all the brilliant glare of the 
electric lights, produced a picture that amid poverty and 
sickness has never been effaced, but stands out before 
me as clear and distinct as if it were but yesterday. 

Mother and I had no evening costumes, but in our 
neat, becoming travelling dresses, were given as much 
attention as if we were robed in sheeny satin and blazed 
with jewels. 

There were a number of titled people on board, as 
well as a few celebrities from the world of music and 
song. 

Each morning I arose early and took Sydney on the 
promenade deck to play before breakfast. I was loth to 
lose one moment of the happiest hours of my life. 

There were no girls of my own age among the first- 
class passengers, and only one boy, of about fifteen, 
Herbert Paul. He was travelling ||with his father, a 



234 DEOPS OP SPRAY 

noted London judge, who was on pleasure bent. There 
was one young fellow of twenty, the son of an Eng- 
lish Earl, who was also travelling for pleasure, to 
whom I was introduced, and we soon became great 
friends. He was so kindly, so thoroughly unassuming, 
one could not help liking him. This young man's 
name was Thomas Sault, but he is now the Earl of 
Cheshire. 

Our first stopping place was Auckland, New Zealand. 
We were there only a short time, and none of us went 
on shore. Several passengers joined the ship at this 
place, among them being a famous Irish comedian and 
his wife and a young medical student. We were soon 
on our way once more with a three weeks' voyage before 
us, when, if all went well, we should arrive in Honolulu. 

The young medical student was the greenest speci- 
men of humanity I ever saw, had more money than 
brains, and many were the jokes played on him by the 
fun-loving passengers. We had fine weather for over a 
week, the sea just rippled by a cool delightful breeze, and 
we plowed along at a spanking rate with all sails set to 
ease the screw. 

Every morning our speed would be determined and 
the number of miles we had travelled in the past twenty- 
four hours reckoned. A sailor would bring the log up 
on the promenade deck, and while the log-line was 
running over the stern, the officer of the deck held aloft 



FEOM SOUTHERN SEAS. 235 

the tiny hour-glass. When the last grain of sand ran 
out, the line would be quickly drawn in and the figures 
given to the waiting passengers who crowded around, 
watching the proceeding with great interest. 

Two or three times a week came the fire drill. First 
would come a long, hoarse whistle three times in succe s- 
sion, which would bring everybody rushing on deck, while 
with lightning-like speed four or five lines of hose would 
begin playing on an imaginary fire. A second blast 
from the whistle, and the men sprang to the ropes ready 
to lower away the boats. A third blast meant lower 
away the boats, but as this was only a drill, it was not 
carried to that length. The rapidity with which the 
men executed the orders was something marvellous. 

The evenings were spent in the social hall, and there 
was always music and singing of a very high order. 
Quoits was a favorite game with the gentlemen and was 
played on the upper deck when the weather permitted, 
but to me the game seemed very senseless. 

I am sorry to state that gambling was carried on to 
an alarming extent, fortunes being made and lost, some- 
times in a day; but everything was perfectly orderly, 
with no swearing or loud talk. No matter how much a 
man lost, he bore it without a murmur. They used to 
play in the dining saloon during the evening. 

I call to mind one man, an American, who had been 
in Australia many years and had amassed a large for- 



236 DROPS OF SPEAY 

tune in sheep-raising. He was now on his way back to 
the United States where he could spend his days in pros- 
perity among the companions of his boyhood. But alas 
for the frailty of man, the fatal fever of gambling caught 
him in its relentless grasp, and nearly his entire fortune 
was swept away. This is an object lesson drawn from 
life which I hope all my young men readers will take a 
solemn warning from. I felt very sorry for him as I 
met him sometimes pacing the deck, and saw the white, 
stony look of despair on his face, for he never recovered 
any of his squandered money, but kept aloof from all 
the rest of the passengers. Still he could blame no one 
but himself. 

The weather had been delightful for nearly two weeks 
and the days slipped by, a perfect dream of delight. 
At last we encountered a heavy gale which lasted three 
days, during which time the engines were stopped and 
we lay to under a mere rag of canvas. 

Mother and I were up as usual, but the saloons pre- 
sented a very deserted appearance, none of the ladies 
being present and but few of the gentlemen while the 
storm raged. Hitherto we had felt the motion very 
little, but in a big storm we found that a monster steam- 
ship can roll and pitch about fully as heavily as any 
small craft. No waves swept across the promenade 
deck however, only sometimes a heavy cloud of spray 
would dash smartly across it. I used to take my daily 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 16 i 

constitutional every morning while the gale lasted, re- 
gardless of wind or weather. I had been to sea so long 
that I could keep my balance perfectly on the heaving 
deck. 

Among the passengers was an old Baronet, fully 
seventy years of age, but still hale and vigorous, and re- 
ported to be immensely wealthy. He seemed to take a 
great fancy to me, and used often to join me in 
my walks. 

On the first morning of the gale, as I emerged from 
the social hall, well wrapped up, as the air was chill, I 
immediately perceived him sitting curled up in a shel- 
tered corner by a ventilator. I gave him a pleasant 
good morning and commenced walking up and down the 
heaving, bounding deck, every pulse in my body thril- 
ling and tingling under the influence of the strong, rough 
breeze, that almost took my breath away, and the oc- 
casional smart dash of spray that came falling at my 
very feet. Presently the Baronet de Rothschild arose 
very unsteadily and joined me. It was plain he was a 
very poor sailor indeed and his attempts to keep by my 
side were so amusing that I had hard work to keep from 
laughing outright. With every violent lurch of the 
steamship, he would slide with alacrity across the deck, 
bringing up against the bulwarks with unpleasant force. 
After one or two attempts, he gave it up and sat down 
with the remark, "You must be a better sailor than I 



238 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

am, Miss Brown." "Well, sir," I answered laughingly, 
"I certainly ought to be, as I was brought up. on 
the ocean." 

Nothing would do but I must sit down beside him and 
give an account of some of my voyages. Nothing loth, I 
complied and related with great detail our story of ship- 
wreck and life in the South Sea Islands, and so inter- 
ested was he that we were still talking when the lunch- 
eon bell rang. 

You cannot imagine what a queer feeling one had, 
particularly at night, when with every roll of the ship, 
the port-holes were buried fathoms deep. The foaming 
water against the glass had the exact appearance of snow 
piled against the windows, as I have so often seen it 
at home. 

We went to bed early while the storm lasted, as the 
saloons looked empty and forlorn, and there was nothing 
to keep us up. On the morning of the third day, how- 
ever, when we opened our eyes our stateroom was flooded 
with the welcome sunlight, and the blue, smiling ocean 
seemed to have forgotten its late wild anger. Although 
the wind had gone down, there was still a heavy swell. 

Never thinking of this, mother threw open the port- 
hole, and with Sydney in her arms stood drinking in the 
delicious breeze, bathed in the glorious sunlight; but 
her exhilaration was short-lived. In another instant 
she was bathed in something a great deal more substan- 



FEOM SOUTHERN SE^S. 239 

tial, as a huge wave rushed up to bid her good-morning, 
and enveloped her in its wet embrace. 

The room was quickly flooded and they were thor- 
oughly drenched. We had a good laugh over it, how- 
ever. A waiter was summoned, who closed the port- 
hole and soon had the water mopped up. 



240 DROPS OF SPRAY 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

A VISIT PROM NEPTUNE. — HONOLULU. 

We were now rapidly nearing the equator, and the 
rumor was whispered that, at the instigation of the pas- 
sengers, the sailors were preparing a big surprise for the 
green-looking student who frankly admitted that he had 
never crossed the line. Many and varied are the tricks 
played upon those unsuspecting ones who have never 
crossed that invisible boundary line. 

Stretching a fine hair across the spy-glass and bring- 
ing it to bear on the horizon dead ahead and bidding 
the innocent victim to look through it and he could see 
the equator, was, perhaps, the most common, and rarely 
failed in its purpose. 

Well, the night arrived when we were to cross the 
equator. There was no moon, but the deep purple 
heavens were thickly studded with stars, which were re- 
flected dimly in the glassy ocean. Mr. Blake, our green 
and verdant passenger, was escorted down to the main 
deck by the gentlemen, nearly all of whom were pre- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 241 

sent, although of course no ladies were included. At 
the proper moment, half a dozen sailors, dressed up to 
resemble old Neptune and his staff, clambered up over 
the ship's bow and, after making a short speech, seized 
the astonished student, who had been gazing at them 
with bulging eyes and open mouth, never doubting their 
identity for a moment. They liberally bedaubed his 
face with thin tar and scraped it off with a razor, after 
which performance they disappeared as mysteriously as 
they came. 

Afterwards, in the course of the evening, he entered 
the social hall. I noticed that the young man's face had 
the hue of a boiled lobster, but was also wreathed in 
smiles, so he did not seem to mind the joke very much 
after all. We entered Honolulu harbor late one night 
when we were all wrapped in slumber, and when I 
awoke the next morning I was surprised to find the en- 
gines silent and the steamship stationary, as I did not 
know we were so near port. I dressed as quickly as 
possible and hurried on deck. It was still very early, 
and very few of the passengers were astir. We were 
moored to the wharf, and all around us were crowds of 
vessels, but very little of the city could be seen from 
the deck. 

As I stood silently contemplating the scene before me, 
the door of the social hall opened and my old friend, the 
Baronet, advanced towards me. He told me that as we 



242 DROPS OF SPRAY 

should be here some six hours he would be pleased to 
to take me for a drive, as he had visited the place before 
and could point out many places of interest to me. I 
was much elated at the prospect, and ran down stairs to 
ask permission of my parents, which was readily granted, 
father remarking' that he, too, was intending to take 
mother for a drive. 

As soon as breakfast was over we started out. The 
Baronet hired a two-seated landau drawn by a handsome 
pair of ponies, and driven by a native neatly attired in 
white cluck. At his request, my parents and Sydney ac- 
companied us. 

Honolulu is the capita'- and largest city of Hawaii, and 
is a famous health resort. The native people are gradu- 
ally dying out, but there is a large American and Euro- 
pean population and most of the trade is carried on by 
them. Sugar is the chief export. Honolulu nestles at 
the foot of a lofty mountain, and is a cleanly and beauti- 
ful city. We drove through the lovely, shady streets and 
out past the palace of the queen, who has since been de- 
throned. We stopped at a fruit store on our way back 
and the Baronet presented me witli a large bag of fruit 
and delicious bonbons. 

Three hundred more first-class passengers were here 
added to our list. The most of them were Americans, 
and I was glad indeed to meet with my countrymen, even 
though they were strangers. Our ship's doctor, Good- 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 243 

speed by name, at whose table we sat and who had 
shown us such unremitting kindness during the voyage, 
especially to dear little Sydney, who was fretful and ail- 
ing from teething, here received very discouraging news. 

During the voyage he had told us something of his 
life. He had practiced medicine in San Francisco for 
years and had accumulated enough property to build him 
a nice house in the city, but had very little besides. His 
health began to suffer from too close application to his 
work, so he took this voyage as ship's doctor, hoping it 
would benefit him, and it had. But now came word that 
his house in San Francisco had been burned flat, and 
that nothing had been saved. The passengers when 
they heard of it made him up a substantial purse and 
presented it as a slight token of their respect and sym- 
pathy for him. 

As we moved slowly from the dock, a fine brass band, 
stationed on the wharf, struck up the dear, familiar tune, 
"Star Spangled Banner," followed by "Columbia, the 
Gem of the Ocean," and the music sounded very sweet 
as we moved farther and farther away. 

Mr. Sault stopped off in Honolulu to explore the 
islands for pleasure, but he intended also to do the 
the United States, and I had his promise that before he 
left for England he would pay us a visit at Milbridge, a 
promise that he fulfilled nearly five months later. He 
■came to Milbridge and stopped with us two weeks. At 



244 DBOPS OF SPEAY 

the age of twenty-one he came into an earldom and one 
of the finest properties in England. He wrote us an ac- 
count of the event, and father has the letter yet. 

Soon after our departure from Honolulu, it transpired 
that an American lady who boarded the ship at Auck- 
land, as a steerage passenger, was very ill, and if she 
were not removed from her present crowded quarters the 
chances for her life were slender indeed. She had told 
her story, which was a most pathetic one, to Dr. Good- 
speed. 

It seems that she and her husband had gone to Aus- 
tralia soon after marriage to seek their fortunes. They 
had amassed quite a nice property and were blessed with 
three darling children. All was as happy as a marriage 
bell, when a wave of disaster swept over her that almost 
crushed her. Their property was swept away by fire,, 
and everything they owned was lost. Her husband, ut- 
terly discouraged, sold his land for a mere song and 
started for the coast, intending to return to his na- 
tive land. 

It was a long, weary journey in wagons under the 
burning heat of the sun. One by one their little ones- 
were stricken down and died, until none was left to 
comfort the heartbroken parents. Still they pushed on,, 
but within two days' ride of Sydney her husband died 
very suddenly, overcome by the heat probably. 

They had one faithful black servant, Wannekee, who 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 245 

buried his master, then carried his unconscious and 
well-nigh dying mistress into Sydney and left her in the 
hospital; there she lay for weeks, hovering between life 
and death, but grew better and slowly struggled back to 
life. As soon as she was able to travel, she went to 
Auckland and from there took passage on this steamship. 
She had a little more than enough money to purchase a 
steerage ticket, but barely enough to take her all the 
way to her friends. 

The kind-hearted doctor related this story with tears 
in his eyes one day at luncheon, and the hearts of his 
audience were touched. A subscription list was speedily 
started, and several hundred dollars were quickly raised 
for her benefit. She was tenderly taken from her dark, 
crowded steerage quarters and installed in a cool, airy 
stateroom in the middle saloon, while the stewardess 
was paid extra to take the entire care of her. 

Under these favorable conditions and the unremitting 
care and kindness shown her by all of the passengers, as 
well as the better fare, she speedily gained health and 
strength and courage to once more take up the battle of 
life, which for her had seemed ended. 



246 DROPS OF SPRAY 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

THE GRAND CONCERT — SAN FRANCISCO. 

Shortly before our arrival at San Francisco, a grand 
farewell concert was to be given in the social hall. 
Among those who took part was a German violinist, one 
of the most celebrated musicians in all Europe, and the 
finest player I ever listened to. He was to tour the 
United States and was accompanied by his daughter, 
who was a prima donna of no mean attainments. Her 
two little children were with her, bright, pretty children, 
both of them. Then there was a famous professor of 
music, and his wife, who played several wonderful duets 
on the piano; the Irish comedian, who not only recited 
several side-splitting pieces, but played and sang as well, 
his last song, "Oh, Tis Not Mesilf at All," bringing 
down the house. His wife, a young, slender thing, 
played very sweetly on the guitar. Taking it all to- 
gether, we had a fine concert, and one which was thor- 
oughly enjoyed. 

And now each day was bringing us nearer port. I 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 247 

was sorry ; I could not help it. I had been so happy 
that I hated to think of the near-by future, when we 
would have to bid good-bye to the noble ship and all of 
our kind friends. It seemed like the breaking up of a 
pleasant family circle, albeit a large one. I was not 
even glad when, one beautiful morning, we sighted the 
three great rocks which stand like sentinels grimly 
guarding the Golden Gate. 

By four o'clock, we were steaming up that beautiful 
harbor, and as I thought of the last time we sailed 
through here, my eyes filled with tears, and a great 
wave of sadness swept over me. As we neared the 
anchorage and the beautiful city of San Francisco, a 
young Englishwoman said to me rather superciliously : 
"Why, do you have wharves in America? I hadn't an 
idea it was so large." 

It fired my blood in an instant. "Well," I answered, 
"San Francisco is a very small part indeed of America 
and I guess you'll find that we have wharves and 
everything else, and lots that you have never seen yet. 
Where are you going ?" 

"To New York," she answered. "I suppose we will 
reach there by tomorrow, will we not ?" 

"Well, hardly," I said smiling. If you go by the fast 
express, you will reach there in seven days." She was 
surprised, and hardly knew whether I was joking or not. 

Now here was an educated woman, who could form 



248 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

no conception of the vast extent of our republic, and she 
did but make the mistake that thousands of her country- 
men have made. 

I was taking care of Sydney, while mother was below 
packing our valises. Sydney had been a great pet 
among the passengers during the voyage, and in his 
dainty white dress, his golden curls clustering around 
his bahy face, and his big blue eyes shining like stars, 
he always attracted a great deal of attention, and I was 
very proud of him, and glad to be his nurse. 

Suddenly the whistle blew a long, resounding blast, 
making the deck fairly tremble under us, and down 
went the anchor with a crash. Our journey was over. 

The tender was already alongside, into which the pas- 
sengers were pouring. On deck all was hurry and con- 
fusion, but we soon found ourselves on the tender, which 
puffed noisily towards the wharf. 

It was now quite dark, and as I gazed back at the im- 
mense hull, now all glowing with lights from its numer- 
ous portholes, and thought of the many happy days I 
had spent on board of her, a lump rose in my throat, and 
my eyes were so misty with tears that all the lights 
seemed conveyed into one blinding glare. 

Most of our late fellow passengers were going to the 
Palace Hotel, at that time the finest in the West, if not 
in America. Father did not feel equal to paying twelve 
dollars a day in view of our recent losses, so we stopped 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 249 

at a first-class, yet less pretentious house, the Truesdell, 
situated a block away from the Palace. Here also came 
the German violinist and his daughter. 

We stopped here two weeks, during which time we 
took dinner with Aunt Kate, and visited many points of 
interest in and about San Francisco. We made a de- 
lightful trip to Golden Gate Park, and rode out to the 
far-famed Seal rocks, and took dinner at the Cliff House. 
The sun was shining gloriously bright and warm, and 
the rocks were covered with the beautiful seals, sporting 
and gamboling in the snowy surf. 

We also went all through the Palace Hotel. It cov- 
ered over two blocks, was eight stories high, built of 
grey stone, and there was a bay window in each room. 
The rooms were of immense size. The grand staircases 
were of pure white marble. The reception room was 
carpeted with softest, richest velvet pile, and its walls 
were hung with paintings which reached from floor to 
ceiling, and must have each cost a fortune. 

We took the elevator and ascended to the top story, 
where there was an immense dome of richly colored 
glass. The main entrance was large enough for a car- 
riage and pair to drive through with ease. 

My father had a cousin residing in Oakland, which is 
just across the bay from San Francisco, and thither we 
went one cold foggy morning. 

The sail across the bav in a large steamer was beau- 



250 DROPS OF SPRAY 

tiful, although it was somewhat foggy. When nearly to 
Oakland, the sun suddenly burst forth, in all its warmth 
and splendor, dispelling the mist as if by magic. 

Oakland is a beautiful place, with flowers everywhere; 
handsome houses are the rule, rather than the exception, 
and many of them were surrounded by gardens that 
were one blaze of color, with tiny fountains sending up 
their silvery spray, to fall back with a cool, pleasant 
tinkle into the marble basin. Here and there was a 
gleam of statuary among the green shrubbery. 

The distance to Cousin Leonard's was short, and as 
we walked along the cool, shady streets, father remarked 
that he should like nothing better than to spend the 
rest of his days in this beautiful town. We found our 
cousin's residence to be one of the finest in Oakland. 
They were much surprised to see us, never dreaming 
that we were within thousands of miles. Father had 
not seen Cousin Leonard since they were young men 
together and you may be sure that conversation did not 
lag. 

As we intended taking the east-bound train at four 
o'clock, we took dinner with them, and* they accom- 
panied us to the depot. 

I will mention only a few incidents of our journey 
across the Plains, as nothing of importance occurred. 
We took our meals in the dining-car, but had a basket 
of lunch besides, as we might need it between meals. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 251 

We had a section in the Pullman sleeping-car, which 
was luxurious in its appointments, as all of them are. 

It was in July and oppressively hot. Mother had 
great difficulty in procuring milk for Sydney, which he 
must have, especially in crossing the plains and among 
the mountains. We had to pay forty cents a quart for 
it, and even at that price it would require a powerful 
magnifying glass to detect any cream on it. As the 
Irishman said about the butter, "It must have been pho- 
tographed on." 

I have mentioned before Cape Horn and the Devil's 
Slide, so I will say nothing beyond the fact that we again 
rounded the former in the night, so we could not see any 
more of it than we did the first time. 

The night we crossed the Mississippi was a beautiful 
one, and will always linger pleasantly in my memory. 
It was about nine o'clock and I was lying down when 
mother came and told me that we were right in the mid- 
dle of the bridge which here spans the river at its widest 
part. 

Soon we were standing on the platform gazing at 
the scene before us. 

The train was moving very slowly, and just a faint 
ripple stirred the silent waters. Before and behind us 
lay the dark outline of either shore, while the full moon 
shone overhead. 

Of course we met several people on the train with whom 



252 DROPS OF SPRAY 

we became acquainted. Among them was a noted 
lawyer of San Francisco, who had invented a very im- 
portant article and was now on his way to Washington, 
D. C, to have it patented. His name was Craig. Al- 
though still in the prime of life, he was very deaf and 
used an ear-trumpet. He was a great talker, however, 
and as he became quite intimate with father, he used 
often to talk with me. 

Sydney met with quite a painful accident one day. 
Of course he was very restless, and used often to run up 
and down the aisle ; but one day as he was laughing and 
running, he caught his foot in a seat and fell heavily, 
striking his head with stunning force against the leg of 
the seat, cutting a great gash in his forehead from which 
the blood gushed freely. Father carried him into the 
toilet room, and after cleansing the wound thoroughly, 
the edges were drawn together with sticking plaster. It 
gave us quite a fright. 

It was father's intention to stop over a day in Chicago 
to get somewhat rested, as the weather was so very 
warm. Accordingly when we arrived we left the train 
and were driven to the Palmer House, which was then 
the finest and also the largest hotel in Chicago. We 
were shown to a beautiful room in the third story, where 
we enjoyed the luxury of a bath, after which we felt 
much refreshed. 

As soon as dinner was eaten, my parents went out to do 



FEOM SOUTHEBN SEAS. 253 

some shopping. I was content to remain in our room 
with Sydney, watching the animated scene in the street 
below. We retired early as our train left at seven the 
next morning. 

As soon as breakfast was concluded, we were driven 
to the depot, feeling much better, and shortly we were 
again rushing swiftly homeward. It was late at night 
when we arrived in Portland, and were driven directly 
to the boat, which would take us to Milbridge. We 
were all very tired, and when we awoke the next morn- 
ing were well on our way. 

It was a lovely day, and my heart beat high with joy 
at the thought that in a few hours more I should again 
see my sister. I was all impatience, and the boat seemed 
to scarcely creep along. All things come to an end, 
however, and four o'clock found us slowly steaming up 
the dear old Narraguagus. 

As we neared the wharf, I looked eagerly for my sis- 
ter's face among the crowd who were gathered there. 
She was not there, and, with a strange sinking at my 
heart, I turned away. I was glad when the hand- 
shakings and greetings from our numerous friends were 
over, and we were seated in the carriage, rolling swiftly 
along the road to Aunt Med's. 

Here we found Annie waiting for us. She had grown, 
certainly, but had not changed one whit. I was so glad, 
because you have all known what it is, perhaps, to be 



254 DROPS OP SPRAY 

absent two or three years, or longer, and on your return 
find every one so changed in appearance that it gives 
you more pain than pleasure, until you become accus- 
tomed to it. I asked her if she had worried much when 
the weeks flew past and no tidings came of the missing 
Illie, and by the quick, pained look that leaped for an 
instant into her dark eyes, I was answered even before 
she spoke. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 255 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

HOME ONCE MORE. 

I could not help being amused by the manner in 
which Annie had first heard the news of our disaster. 
Elmer Sawyer, the son of one of our neighbors, was a 
schoolmate of Annie's at the E. M. C. Seminary at 
Bucksport. His father was a .shipbuilder, and not only 
built the Illie, but was a large shareowner in her as 
well. Of course Annie was very uneasy at our long 
silence, and went to the office every night in the hope 
of getting some word. One night as she was returning 
she was joined by Elmer. 

"Have you heard the news ?" he questioned. 

"What news ?" she asked eagerly. 

"Why, they say that the Illie is lost, hook and line." 

It was rather an abrupt way of putting it and gave 
Annie quite a shock, but still no one knew for a cer- 
tainty. The ship that we had spoken two weeks before 
our wreck, had arrived and reported. Then, as the 
weeks passed and no news came of the missing Illie, 



256 DROPS OF SPRAY 

long, long overdue, surmise grew to certainty, and al- 
though my sister is a girl of few words, scouting any- 
thing approaching sentimentality, I could understand 
all the longing, and agony, and heart-hunger, that she 
must have endured, even while obliged to pursue her 
daily studies, under a mask of seeming indifference. 

I was glad to be at home once more, and never wished 
to leave it again. A year passed very pleasantly, and 
it was again summer. Father thought that it would be 
a pleasant change to hire a small yacht, and take a fish- 
ing trip down the bay, to be gone two or three days. 
We engaged the "White Lily, 1 ' a small yacht, and the 
party consisted of my parents and Sydney, Aunt Med 
and myself. Annie did not like the water, so did not 
accompany us. 

Our outfit was a small canvas tent, a few cooking 
utensils and a hamper of food, and our destination 
Baughbaugh, one of the outer islands of the bay, where 
nothing grows except quantities of highland cranberries. 
The island is bold and rocky, and faces the ocean on two 
sides, while off the other two are other islands. 

We had some difficulty in landing, as it was quite 
rough, and by the time the tent was up and supper eaten, 
it was dark. 

We w T ent to sleep, lulled by the booming of the surf 
on the rocks below us. When we awoke the next morn- 
ing no bright sunshine and balmy breeze greeted us ; 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 257 

instead, a dark, lowering sky, a stormy sea, and a cold, 
drizzling rain. The surf beat against the rocks with a 
noise like thunder, but the yacht, lying at anchor a 
short distance from shore, under the lee of the island 
was weathering the storm bravely, although she strained 
and tugged at her anchor, like some live creature. 

After much trouble a fire was kindled under the lee 
of a big boulder, and soon the fragrant odor of boiling 
coffee was wafted to our nostrils. As soon as breakfast 
was eaten, father got into the dingey and rowed out to 
the yacht. He was bound to catch some fish, storm or 
no storm, and was soon out of sight, bound for the fish- 
ng grounds. 

Aunt Med and I, notwithstanding the rain, set off to 
pick some cranberries. We wanted to improve our 
chance as we should probably not come again for the 
season. Noon brought the fisherman, wet and hungry, 
A chowder was soon made, which tasted delicious as our 
appetites were considerably sharpened by the rough salt 
winds. It was rather too rough to fish, and as the 
storm showed no signs of abating, father decided to wait 
until night, and then run up to Pond Island, and re- 
main another night, and see if he wouldn't have better 
luck with the fish. There are a lighthouse and keeper's 
cottage, as well as a few handsome summer residences, 
on the island. We were well acquainted with the keep- 
er's family and it was agreed that Aunt Med and I 



258 DROPS OP SPRAY 

should go on shore and spend the night at the keeper's 
cottage, mother and father preferring to remain on 
board the yacht. 

It was a dark, stormy night, and the keeper's cottage 
was very cheerful, with its glow of lamp and firelight. 
A capital supper having been partaken of, we were 
shown over the lighthouse by the keeper's wife, a 
cheery, bustling little woman, who seemed delighted to 
have us there. I had never been inside a lighthouse 
tower before, and was very much interested in all I 
saw. The brilliant light sent its warning far out over 
the troubled waters, bidding all mariners beware. At in- 
tervals we could hear the boom, boom, of the steam fog- 
horn at Petit Manan, three miles or thereabouts outside. 

We were up quite early the next morning, to find the 
storm still continued unabated. As soon as breakfast 
was eaten we made our way* to the beach, as we did not 
think father would care to stay and fish in the cold rain. 
When we reached the beach, however, there was no 
yacht in sight, and nothing met our gaze but the 
long, foam-capped rollers, chasing each other in shore. 
While we were wondering what could have become of 
them, the yacht gracefully rounded the point, and came 
to, right opposite, her sails fluttering in the breeze. 
Leaving the sails as they were, without even letting go 
the anchor, father set the tiller and, jumping into the 
dingey, rowed rapidly toward the shore. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 259 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

A MOMENT OF PERIL. 

Scarcely had we taken our seats when I cried, "Look 
father, the yacht is moving." The sea was quite rough, 
and the little craft had plunged with such force as to 
throw the tiller out of the notch in which father had 
placed it and was now moving faster and faster away 
from the shelter of the island. The little boat lay well 
over as she felt the full force of the wind and was headed 
straight for Egg Rock, a wicked-looking reef, against 
which the waves threw themselves furiously, while the 
spray flew high in air. 

Mother and Sydney were asleep in the cabin, and we 
were fully a quarter of a mile distant. If the yacht 
struck before we could reach her, they were doomed. 
No power on earth could save them. We hallooed, we 
shouted, we screamed at the top of our voices, hoping 
that mother would hear, but no sound came back except 
that of the rushing waters. Fortunately the strong wind 
l)ore our voices toward the yacht. 



260 DROPS OF SPRAY 

Father rowed like a madman; his face pale as death > 
his lips quivering pitifully as his labored breath forced 
its way through them, while the veins stood out on his 
forehead like whip-cords. The oars bent like straws be- 
neath his powerful strokes, and the little boat fairly flew 
through the water, while we made the air ring with our 
shouts. 

Oh God, in Heaven, would she never hear! With 
tears streaming down our faces, drenched with the chil- 
ling spray, aunt and I stood in the bow of the plunging 
boat and screamed until we were hoarse. 

Straight as though an experienced handheld the tiller, 
with scarcely a flutter of the sail, the White Lily sped on 
to her doom. The cruel rock was now very near, and 
the noise of the surf drowned our voices, but we were- 
gaining on her. 

Suddenly up from the companion-way stepped my 
mother, gazing in a bewildered way about her. Awak- 
ened suddenly from a sound sleep, clad only in her night- 
robe, which fluttered in the wind, on her feet a pair of 
scarlet worsted slippers, over her shoulders a scarlet 
knitted shawl, her glorious hair falling like a veil around 
her, never had she looked fairer. 

"Down with the helm! hard down! Kate, for God's- 
sake !" almost sobbed father, whose breath was nearly 
spent. 

We saw her glance towards us, then at the cruel rock 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 261 

which loomed so near ; and with lightning speed she 
seized the tiller. We saw the boat quickly pay off and 
pass the rock so near as almost to graze it, but mother 
was saved and in a minute more she was in father's arms 
crying and laughing in a breath. 

He blamed himself severely for his carelessness which 
came so near ending in a tragedy. Sydney was still 
sleeping quietly. It seems father had been out fishing 
since daylight, and when he left the yacht to go after us 
had spoken to mother, but she, scarcely heeding what he 
said, had fallen asleep again, almost before he was clear 
of the yacht. 

We now decided to return home as the storm seemed 
to have set in in earnest. The rain came down in 
sheets while, to make matters worse, the, wind was dead 
ahead. That meant a long three hours' work for father, 
as we should have to beat up to the wharf. As for us, 
snugly sitting in the little cabin with the rain dashing 
against the sky-light, let the yacht tumble and plunge as 
much as she liked, we cared not. 

We had now been home nearly a year, when father 
electrified us all by proposing to sell our home in Mil- 
bridge and buy a farm. He was under the impression 
that life on a farm would just suit him, and, although he 
knew very little about farming, it would be a delightful 
occupation to learn. Mother heartily seconded the idea, 
but to us girls it was far from welcome. 



262 DROPS OF SPRAY 

To move away meant the rude sundering of the ten- 
derest ties. Here we were, surrounded by kind friends 
and loving relatives, and the Yery thought that strangers 
would occupy the rooms, every one of which we loved, 
was sadder than all. Why, I loved every timber in the 
old house, every tree in the yard. 

The following Monday, father set out on his quest for 
a farm, the interior of the State being preferred. We 
were to pack the goods while he was absent. He had 
already had an offer made for the place. 

With heavy hearts we lent what aid we could, and 
soon confusion reigned supreme. A week passed, when 
we received from father a telegram saying he had suc- 
ceeded and would be home the next day. True to his 
promise he came, his face beaming with delight. He 
had bought a farm in the town of China ; had heard of 
it through a friend, and pleased with his glowing de- 
scription of it had run up to have a look at it himself. 

He was so elated with the beautiful scenery surround- 
ing it that he had closed the bargain on the spot. Lake- 
side Farm, he named it and pictured it to us in glowing 
colors. After this, for about four weeks, pandemonium 
reigned. All those who have moved will appreciate the 
situation, I am sure. It was a hundred and fifteen miles 
to China, and there were several routes one might take, 
each one having its charms. All the articles must be 
carefully packed, as they would be shipped by boat as 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 263 

far as Portland, then by railroad to G-etchelPs Corner, 
and from there they must be trucked to China, a dis- 
tance of seven miles. And finally the entire house mast 
be cleaned ; and so from morning until night we worked, 
eating our meals when convenient, on a box or anything 
else that would serve as a table. Our parents were go- 
ing two weeks in advance of my sister and me, and we 
intended stopping over a day or two in Portland. 

At last the day of their departure came; the load of 
goods had been hauled to the wharf, the house sold, and 
we repaired to our grandmother's, where we were to 
spend the week. Our parents, with Sydney, went with 
our team, going by easy stages via Ellsworth and Belfast 
as my mother had relations in both places. Grand- 
mother hated the thought of parting with us. As she 
used often to say, "we seemed just like her own children." 

We spent the week in making calls and bidding fare- 
well to our favorite haunts. The day before our de- 
parture, I went to bid farewell to mother's grave. Long 
I lingered, kneeling in the short grass at her side, while 
I thought with a strange sinking in my heart of the new 
life opening before me. 

I had brought a basket of flowers with me and these I 
arranged and laid tenderly on the grave. 



264 DROPS OP SPRAY 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

OUT FROM THE OLD LIFE INTO THE NEW. 

The next morning dawned fair and bright. Very 
early we were astir, and as soon as we had eaten a hasty 
breakfast, we bade grandmotlier and Aunt Julia good- 
bye, and hurried to the wharf with quite a party of our 
friends in attendance. We found the steamboat already 
there, and so went directly on board, and sat down 
where we could easily talk with our friends on shore. 
Noise and confusion reigned supreme. Men with 
loaded trunks, came running down the gang-plank, with 
a rattle and bang, depositing their load, then rushing 
back for more. Belated teams were hurrying up, and 
leaving anxious passengers, clouds of steam w r ere 
escaping, and orders were horsely bawled. 

The last truckful of baggage was run on board, the 
gang-planks drawn in, and promptly on time, the lines 
were cast off, the wheels began to revolve, and we were 
fairly off, amid the waving of handkerchiefs, and the 
cries of "Good-bye, girls, you'll be sure to write, won't 



PROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 265 

you ?" from our numerous friends on shore. We were 
soon gliding swiftly down the bay, but still we gazed 
until a bend in the river hid them from view. 

We had brought a lunch with us, in preference to 
dining in the saloon, among so many strangers, and 
so when noon came we remained on deck and ate it. 
We had a pleasant run ; scarcely a ripple stirred the 
glassy waters of old ocean, and when night came, and 
the moon rose, flooding the scene with a calm, serene 
radiance, long we lingered enjoying the perfect beauty of 
the night. We took berths in the ladies' cabin, and as 
none were ill, we obtained a good night's rest. 

When we awoke the next morning we were in 
Portland. The sun was shining brightly and we found 
ourselves the sole occupants of the cabin. While we 
were hurriedly dressing, the stewardess came in and in- 
formed us that a young man had come for us. Of 
course it must be one of our cousins. On entering the 
saloon, a tall young fellow arose and came towards us 
with outstretched hand. We did not recognize him at 
first, until he said: "Have you then forgotten your 
cousin, Stephen Morse ? 1 think I must have changed 
more than yourselves, as I should have known you any- 
where." 

Of course we remembered him then, and were very 
glad to see him. Stephen was our Aunt Abbie's step- 
son, and had come to escort us to her home. 



266 DEOPS OF SPEAY 

We had a very pleasant time indeed during our stay, 
and I, for one, was heartily sorry when we found our- 
selves on the train en route for Getch ell's Corner. We 
arrived at four o'clock that afternoon, and found father 
at the depot. The glamour of his new possessions had 
not worn off, evidently, for he looked happy and content- 
ed. All the way home, he could talk of nothing but the 
farm and the delights of country living. 

It was about the first of May, but the roads were in 
much better condition than they were in Milbridge, as 
the seasons are earlier here. 

"It isn't very muddy here," Annie remarked at 
length, very quietly, during a pause in the flow of 
country praises. "Mud !" father answered contemp- 
tuously; "why, there ain't mud up here until July," and 
as he jumped out a few minutes afterwards, to loosen 
the check rein, and landed square in a mud puddle, we 
smiled audibly. Well," he said laughingly, "I spoke too 
soon, didn't I ?" 

I didn't see much to admire in the much-lauded 
scenery, as we drove along. Nothing but a hilly country 
road, with here a few houses, there a small strip of 
woods, until we reached the top of Stanley hill, and 
stopped a minute to rest the horse. On either side 
rolled hill and dale, clad in softest spring verdure, the 
vivid green of the young grass, and the darker color of 
the evergreen trees, making a pleasing contrast. A 



FROM SOUTHEEN SEAS. 267 

number of neat white houses were clustered together 
on top of the hill, while off to the right gleamed the 
blue waters of a lake. 

Our farm was only two miles farther on, and we soon 
drove up to the door, where mother and Sydney awaited 
us. We certainly could find no fault with the house. 
It was large, roomy, and comfortable. At one end stood 
a noble elm, while three or four other shade trees 
adorned the yard. The scenery was fine. The white 
road wound past the house, and on the opposite side 
the fields of undulating green sloped down to the edge 
of the lake, which lay like a broad ribbon between the 
fair, smiling shores. From its centre rose a small, 
thickly wooded island, its dark green foliage making a 
pleasing contrast to the bright, blue waters of the lake. 

I grew to love that lake in all its moods — hardly 
twice alike. Sometimes it would be like a sheet of 
glass, and the trees along its margin would be reflected 
on its silent bosom, as in a mirror ; at other times it 
reflected the unsurpassed tints of the sky, palest 
pink, shading into delicate blue, or rich orange, or soft 
pearly gray, and then I think I loved it best. Some- 
times it would look black and sullen, and the white- 
caps would chase each other on its troubled bosom. 

My first night on the farm was a wakeful one to me. 
Not a sound broke the stillness, but the faint croak of 
some frog. I must confess that I was terribly home- 



268 DROPS OF SPRAY 

sick, and would have given all that I possessed, to have 
awakened and found it all a hideous dream. 

In time I got accustomed to farm life, and even, in 
a measure, contented, but I never grew to love it. 
We had several cows, and of course, I was very much 
afraid of them, never having having been used to seeing 
them around. There was one among them, jet black, 
with a sinister, white face, that was my pet aversion, 
and she seemed to take delight in tormenting me. No 
matter where I caught sight of her, she would make a 
dash for me, head down and tail in the air. 

One day, when father and the hired man were in a 
distant field, plowing, the cows broke into a choice field 
of grain, across "the road. Quite a high bank skirted 
it at this place, and it was on the top of it that we first 
perceived the intruders. If it had been a drove of lions, 
we could not have felt greater consternation. Straight- 
way a council of war was held. One of two things must 
be done. Either we must drive those cows into the 
barn-yard, or else we must inform father of their 
presence. In order to do the latter we would have to 
pass them, and that dreadful white-face was among 
them. Neither Annie nor I would go, although mother 
pleaded and threatened. At last she said she would go 
herself, no cow should drive her. She was not afraid 
of them ; She would drive them out herself, and not 
bother father, who had quite enough to do besides. So, 



PROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 269 

arming herself with the broom, woman's weapon, she 
dashed bravely across the road and up the embankment, 
with us watching her admiringly. We heard a wild, 
blood-curdling shriek, and saw mother charging down 
the bank, minus the broom, while the white-faced cow 
calmly appeared at the top. 

Mother's courage had vanished, so, going up stairs, 
we frantically waved a red flannel shirt from the win- 
dow, at father. Our signal was seen and we saw him 
running toward the house, closely followed by Irving, 
the hired man, who was probably under the impression 
that the house was on fire, or that some great calamity 
had overtaken us. The cows were soon in the barn- 
yard, and when we told our story, father called us a 
courageous set, and Irving came near strangling in his 
efforts to keep from laughing. 

One night father was obliged to be away from home 
quite late, and Irving was on a short vacation. I 
thought to myself, how nice it would be to go after the 
cows, and thus save him so much trouble when he re- 
turned, tired and weary. Our cows never by any 
chance came home by themselves, but were generally to 
be found at the farthest end of the pasture, among the 
trees, which ran back nearly a mile. I took one of the 
neighbors' little boys with me for company, Georgie 
Wentworth, perhaps nine years of age. I trudged along 
bravely enough until I espied the herd in the distance, 



270 DEOPS OF SPEAY 

with old while-face in their midst. 1 hardly dared to 
venture farther, and stood there undecided, until I saw 
the old cow make a threatening move to investigate, 
when with a few flying leaps, I gained the fence, and 
scrambled over, while Georgie stood gazing after me in 
astonishment. He drove them home for me, however, 
and I followed a good distance behind. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 271 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

HOW BROWN BESS ATE THE PUDDING. 

I will relate just one more little incident about cows, 
while we are speaking about them, although it happened 
some years later. Father soon sold the entire herd of 
cows, and replaced them with a choice breed of Jerseys. 
One of them had a young calf, only a few weeks old, 
that mother named Brown Bess, and she soon became 
a regular pet, even going so far as to follow father into 
the kitchen. 

One day, mother thought an orange pudding would 
be liked for dinner, so she made it and piled it high 
with snowy frosting. When it was done, mother took 
it into the pantry and placed it on the broad window 
ledge to cool. How good it did look! When we were 
ready for the dessert, mother rose and went into the 
pantry after her pudding, but Ah me! what a sight met 
her astonished gaze. The window sill was low, and as 
she entered, Brown Bess lifted her mouth, dripping with 
custard and frosting, from the dish, with a questioning 



272 DROPS OP SPRAY 

look in her big, melancholy eyes. If she could have 
spoken she would probably have said : "That is very 
good indeed, and I am glad that you were so thoughtful 
as to place it within such easy reach." Well, we had 
to laugh, even though we lost our pudding. 

There were many pleasant diversions from farm life, 
which we fully appreciated. The lake abounded in 
various kinds of fish, such as pickerel, perch, black 
bass, and others. I was passionately fond of angling, 
and used often to go and although I never caught any- 
thing larger than a perch, I always enjoyed it. Then 
there was a fine stretch of beach, and nearly every 
warm day through the summer would find us at the 
lake, enjoying a bath in its clear waters. 

In the winter, when from shore to shore stretched 
one glistening crystal expanse of ice, we would spend 
many an hour, gliding along on our skates, our cheeks 
glowing and our eyes brightening with the healthful ex- 
ercise. In the summer months, we often took long rides 
through the surrounding country and would see many 
truly lovely bits of scenery. 

At last a sad accident happened to our carriage horse, 
Kate. She was always at our disposal, as father did 
not work her, for the very good reason that she refused, 
although a better carriage horse never wore the harness. 

I remember the first and last time that father tried 
to make her work. It was in haying time, and he put 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 273 

her into the horse rake, but she instantly bolted, throw- 
ing father off and smashing the rake. 

One day in the early part of winter, in a blinding 
snow storm, he harnessed her into the sleigh and went 
to the village. In half an hour, we saw father coming 
back, minus the sleigh, leading the poor animal, which 
was quivering with pain. She had stepped in a hole 
and broken her leg, and she had to be killed. We had 
taken our last ride after our pet horse, and we missed 
her sorely. 

Annie and I attended the high school in the village 
two terms, and we also went to the district school a few 
terms. This was kept in the traditional little red 
schoolhouse, situated a mile from home. Inside, it 
was a revelation to us, but was only a pattern of hun- 
dreds of other country school-houses, with its rough 
benches, hewn and whittled by many a mischievous 
hand, its uneven floor, huge barrel stove, and ample 
wooden shutters. But many a pleasant hour have I 
passed in that old-fashioned house. 

We were very fond of walking, and never rode to 
school, unless the weather was unusually bad. I liked 
the scholars very much, but there was one among them, 
a tall, slender girl with laughing black eyes, who was 
a veritable tease. She it was who used to catch big 
green grasshoppers, or tiny toads, and pop them under 
the teacher's bell, and her face always expressed inno- 



274 DEOPS OF SPEAY 

cent concern, when, on lifting the bell, out would 
spring the unwilling prisoner, and the teacher would 
generally emit a feminine shriek. 

One day on coming home we espied a dead milk adder 
in the road. Vesta ran forward, caught it by the tail 
and started for us. The mere sight of a snake always 
turns me sick and faint, and I ran, screaming with 
terror. Vesta went up to Annie, who disdained to run, 
and laid the cold clammy coils about her neck. Al- 
though Annie's face was ghastly in its pallor, she nei- 
ther spoke, nor offered to remove the obnoxious reptile, 
but walked slowly along. If I had been in her place 
I should have died outright. When Vesta found that 
her plan for teasing Annie had failed, she removed the 
snake herself. She was always up to all sorts of tricks, 
but was withal a warm-hearted girl. 

A year passed, and a baby sister was added to our 
household. She was a wee, delicate little thing from 
the first, but she crept into my heart, and I held her 
cherished there. She. was named Florence, and was a 
great contrast to our sturdy, rosy-cheeked little brother. 

About this time we received the very sad news from 
grandmother that Aunt Julia was dead and that she was 
going out to Minneapolis, where she had three sons liv- 
ing, to spend the rest of her days. I immediately went 
down to Milbridge to bid her good-bye, and stopped with 
her until she departed for her new home. It was a last 



Nt 



FEOM SOUTHEEN SEAS. 275 

farewell, for in less than six months our beloved grand- 
mother was brought back, dead; and was buried beside 
her daughter, who had gone but a little while before. 

When Florence was a year old, Annie went away to 
Westboro, Mass., to work, and all the world seemed to 
grow dark. I missed her more than I can say, and life 
seemed twice as dull. 

Thus matters went on until I was eighteen, when I 
met my fate in the shape of a tall, handsome young fel- 
low with bonny brown eyes, but who had nothing to rec- 
ommend him but a common school education, an honest 
heart, and a pair of willing hands to work for the girl he 
loved. My father bitterly opposed the match, but in the 
face of this opposition we were married. We turned our 
faces to the West, which has lured so many young people 
from their eastern homes, a few to meet with success, 
but the majority to be sadly disappointed. 

My husband's father, who was engaged in lumbering, 
lived in Hinckley, Minn., and thither we went. We had 
a very pleasant trip out, although it was in July and the 
weather was uncomfortably warm. But I was used to 
travel and enjoyed it with a keen zest. 

When we reached Grand Haven, Mich., I suggested 
that we leave the train and cross Lake Michigan 
by boat. It would be so refreshing after the heat of 
the cars. 

It is eighty-six miles across to Milwaukee where we 

• 



276 DROPS OF SPRAY 

were to again board the train. We started at midnight, 
and when we arose the next morning we were well on 
our way. There was no swell, and the steamer glided 
smoothly on. Hastily dressing we stepped on deck. The 
sun was shining bright and warm, and the blue waters 
danced and sparkled merrily, while a cool, delicious 
breeze tempered the heat. It was all novel to my hus- 
band, who was country born and bred, and, although he 
had made one trip out West, had never before been on a 
large steamboat. 

We walked to the forward part and stood gazing over 
the bow. The boat, with a full head of steam on, was 
cutting the water like a knife, sending the glittering 
spray to each side. Away to our left lay the dark out- 
line of the land ; besides that, nothing could be seen but 
water and sky. One can hardly realize the vast extent 
of the Great Lakes until one has seen them and trav- 
elled on them. We arrived in due time in Milwaukee, 
a beautiful city, where we had to wait until night. 

When we reached Minneapolis, we stopped over a day 
as I wished to call upon my uncles, who resided there. 
One of my cousins had married the daughter of Charles 
A. Pillsbury, one of the largest flour manufacturers in 
the West and also one of the wealthiest. They lived in 
a magnificent grey stone mansion, surrounded by superb 
gardens and hot-houses. 

Minneapolis is a city in which I should like to live. 



FROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 277 

It is very large and gives one the impression of not 
being crowded. There are no narrow, cramped streets, 
with tall, dingy buildings on either side shutting out the 
pure air and sunshine as there are in so many of our 
large eastern cities. Instead, there are broad avenues 
lined with beautiful shade trees. Tall buildings there 
are in plenty, but they are not all in a bunch ; they are 
allowed room. Electric cars are largely used on the 
streets, yet once in a while would be seen a street car 
drawn by a pair of long-eared mules. Mules largely 
take the place of work horses in Minnesota, although sel- 
dom seen on a carriage. 

Monday morning we took the train for Hinckley, 
where we arrived at about noon. I had never seen a 
western frontier town before, and my heart sank, it was 
so different from what I had pictured it. Hinckley, at 
that time, was a small town, but it was of mushroom 
growth ; and when it was destroyed by fire, two years 
ago, it was a large, thrifty place of considerable im- 
portance. It was at the junction of two lines of rail- 
road and had a fine saw and shingle mill, also a planing 
mill that cost $75,000. Small as it was, it yet boasted 
of six large saloons, well fitted up, and having whole 
fronts of plate glass. There were four large hotels, 
a schoolhouse, erected at a cost of $7,000, and less than 
five hundred houses. There were two churches, Catho- 
lic and Swedish, four general stores, and. a drug store. 



278 DROPS OF SPEAY 

Some of the streets were laid out well, while others were 
still full of stumps. 

The inhabitants were mostly Swedes. Lawlessness 
reigned supreme, although there was a good lock-up and 
a sheriff. A week before our arrival, a man was stabbed 
to death in one of the saloons, and the murderer was 
not even arrested. Murders were very common and 
rarely taken any "notice of. 

I made very few acquaintances, and there was only 
one family the members of which I could call friends. 
They were Scotch, and had recently moved from St. 
Paul. 

We were there a year, and it was the longest year I 
ever spent. I never knew the meaning of the word 
homesick before, but I soon learned. We boarded, and 
as my husband was away at work during the day, the 
time hung heavily on my hands. 

During the berry season I went nearly every day to 
gather them as they were very plentiful, and I was glad 
of any diversion. I could not atttend the class of enter- 
tainments that were frequently held in the town hall. 
Nor were there any beautiful drives to be enjoyed. 

Outside of the town and completely surrounding it 
were thick woods, with nothing but rough tote roads 
spanned every few rods by corduroy bridges. Nothing 
was used lighter than Bain wagons to which were hitched 
a sturdy pair of mules or Indian ponies. 



PEOM SOUTHEKN SEAS. 279 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

A WINTER TN A LOG CAMP — BACK TO MAINE. 

We went cranberrying twice while we in Hinckley. 
The berries were large, flat, and speckled red and gray. 
They call them moss berries out there, but they are 
much nicer than those that are grown in the East and 
not nearly as sour. The swamps, of which there were 
four, lay on either side of the railroad track and about 
two miles from Hinckley. It was in these swamps that 
two hundred and fifty corpses were found after the great 
fire. My husband's father was one of the victims of 
that terrible catastrophe. Half a mile farther on is the 
small pond, in which the passengers on the burning train 
took refuge during that awful day, and were eventually 
saved. 

Little did we think as we calmly picked our berries 
and laughed and talked merrily, that it would ever be 
the scene of such a tragedy ; a tragedy that has never 
before been excelled in the history of our country, unless, 
indeed, I except the great Johnstown flood. 



280 DROPS OF SPRAY 

There was one small cyclone while we were there, but 
beyond blowing a few chimneys off and uprooting a few 
trees no damage was done. The country there is level, 
for the most part, but the heavy forests break the force 
of the wind to a great extent. Thunder showers are 
very frequent and terrific ones they are, too, much heav- 
ier than we have them in the East. 

We lived four months in a logging camp in the midst 
of the thick forest, and although it was certainly a novel 
experience, it was anything but delightful or even pleas- 
ant. The camp was owned by my husband's father, Mr. 
Reynolds, who owned miles of choice timber land and 
who always lived in his camp during the winter months, 
getting out logs and railroad ties. I could have re- 
mained in town if I had chosen, but as my husband was 
at work for his father, and as the camp was only two miles 
out, I decided to go. My husband built a one-roomed 
log cabin for our own use, and there was a large board 
camp of two rooms, in the larger of which we took our 
meals, the smaller being occupied by the cook, his wife, 
and three small children. 

There was a large log camp used for the men's sleep- 
ing room and the log barn. They were built on the 
Grindstone river, which could be easily forded at any 
time during the year except in the spring, when swollen 
by the rains, for a short time it became a raging torrent. 
I was very lonesome, and sometimes would cry for 



PROM SOUTHERN SEAS. 281 

hours for home. At night the woods would resound with 
the long-drawn howls of the wolves, that in a storm 
would boldly venture to our very doors. 

One night a wildcat climbed upon our low roof and 
snarled and clawed, but as it could not gain an entrance, 
it finally went away. 

Life at the camp was even more monotonous than in 
town; but someway, the long, cold winter drew to a 
close, and March came in cold and blustering. We had 
intended to remain the year out at all events, but my 
health suddenly failing, we decided to return to Maine 
without delay. 

We had a disagreeable journey back on account of the 
snow. When we reached New York State, we found 
that the roads were entirely blocked, and we had to wait 
two days before they were clear; and to cap the climax, 
when we did once more get started, we hadn't gone 
more than twenty miles when the wheels of our car 
broke. We were badly shaken up and very much fright- 
ened, but the engine was quickly stopped, and fortu- 
nately no one was injured. 

We were very tired when we finally arrived in Water- 
ville, having been on the way seven days. But all 
things, good or bad, come to an end in this world, and 
at last we arrived safely in China, where we went di- 
rectly home. They were very glad to see us ; and how 
nice it seemed to be at home once more. I felt as 



282 DEOPS OF SPRAY 

though I never wished to travel again, that Maine was 
good enough for me. 

I have three bright, sturdy children of my own, who 
love to listen to the story of my travels. After having 
travelled thousands and thousands of miles, having 
crossed the ocean and recrossed it many times, though 
still young, I am now perfectly content to bury myself 
in a rural New England town, happy in the love of my 
husband and children. 

The romance of my life is ended ; and if my readers 
can glean instruction or entertainment from this true 
story of my life, my mission will be more than fulfilled. 
I ask nothing more than to pass the remainder of my 
life in my dear old native State, surrounded by loving 
friends ; and when my work on earth is done, to be per- 
mitted to join my angel mother, whose eyes were closed 
in their last, long sleep on the blue, fathomless ocean. 

THE END. 



H 








■ JSP 



K&F1 



